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Author Topic: Physical buttons for plasma  (Read 84179 times)

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Offline stirling

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Re: Physical buttons for plasma
« Reply #250 on: February 08, 2016, 08:52:54 AM »
bloody noisy things these steppers :D

I kinda like it - singing a little tune as they go bless 'em.

Nope - as written, the pause thing makes no sense to me either.

Offline Davek0974

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Re: Physical buttons for plasma
« Reply #251 on: February 08, 2016, 09:14:24 AM »
Be interesting to find out what thats all about - i would the THC back on as soon as the speed is back up myself.
Bridgeport Mill, Mach3 V062, CSMIO-IP/A controller, AC Servo Drives

Offline BR549

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Re: Physical buttons for plasma
« Reply #252 on: February 08, 2016, 10:29:33 AM »
Yes but does it do BOTH anti dives or just one. The pause would be THC delay . The THC stays OFF for teh pause period to allow the torch arc to stablize after pierce. Then when it is stable and cutting the THC turns on. IT keeps teh torch from diving on pierce.

Dave I hear that Torch Diving will be an olympic sport next time (;-)

Offline Hood

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Re: Physical buttons for plasma
« Reply #253 on: February 09, 2016, 02:51:59 AM »
TP, I asked if the CSMIO supports all of Machs Plasma functions especially Antidive and that is the reply I got, so I presume so.
How do you set the two types of Antidive?


Regarding the delay, when I got to a computer and looked at the email I saw they added a screenset with the delay DRO added on, still not quite sure what it is for but here is the pic they sent, 1mS seems short.

Hood

Offline stirling

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Re: Physical buttons for plasma
« Reply #254 on: February 09, 2016, 05:30:58 AM »
Hood - AFAIK Mach3 THC anti-dive is plain simple ignore THCdown signal if the actual speed (of any axis) is less than the set % of feed.

They may well have added "pierce time anti-dive" and that MAY be what they're referring to. Personally I didn't read it that way but that's just me.

Whatever, the 1ms doesn't seem to fit with that somehow. I'm wondering if for some reason they've decided that when a slowed axis gets back up to speed, rather than immediately enable THC down commands again, they insert a delay. Can't see why at the moment but that's more how I'd read what they've written.

Offline BR549

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Re: Physical buttons for plasma
« Reply #255 on: February 09, 2016, 11:52:58 AM »
OK lets try it this way.  THC delay. When the torch first fires teh Arc volts are very unstable and can be as high as 200-300 volts and may take a few 100 ms to stabilize back down to normal. IF the THC is active at that time it willl sense teh high voltage and tell Mach3 to LOWER the torch. YOU DO NOT want it to do that.  SO teh THC delay delays teh THC going active until the dwell time is over THEN it turns on the THC for control. At that time teh Arc volt should be stable and the THC can take over control of Z without causing torch dive.  IF you settings are correct that is (;-)



(;-) TP

Offline Hood

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Re: Physical buttons for plasma
« Reply #256 on: March 05, 2016, 09:57:20 AM »
Well not had much time  but am starting to weld up the frame today out of some 3 x 3 x 1/4 box that I did a deal on :)
Have also fallen heir to a steel shipping container so now have a home for the plasma :)
I have decided on a tilting design as it would have given me more room in the back workshop and even though I will be in a container now I will just keep the tilting design as it will make access easier to the far end if need be.
Also have the control cabinet almost wired  so a couple of pics and I better get back to the welding.
Hood

Offline Davek0974

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Re: Physical buttons for plasma
« Reply #257 on: March 05, 2016, 11:59:23 AM »
Nice control cabinet, luv the keyboard.

Is that a water table tray, my concern is that it will not work for downdraft??

I would also fit some hard stops so that the tilting system can jam solidly against them to remove any twist in the tilting frame.
Bridgeport Mill, Mach3 V062, CSMIO-IP/A controller, AC Servo Drives
Re: Physical buttons for plasma
« Reply #258 on: March 05, 2016, 12:28:18 PM »
2p suggestion.... have you thought about offseting your two Y axis so that you get more travel use of your table?   As its drawn, offset toward the back of the machine, given as its shown your torch will be on the front, hence can reach the front rail of your table at the front but may be 100mm from the back of the table?

Is the rear of the table not going to catch on the frame (around where the rails are) when you tip it up, so you may need to offset the table pivot point further forward?

(arm chair smart a$$£""£ I know, sorry).

That way if you offset the Y rails back, they can act as the horizontal stop (but it would tip up the other way.

Also you need to think about how you will lock the table whilst you are loading plate or it may tip up.

The central rail may also become consumable (the central slat support rail, as the cutting power of your torch may exceed the offset depth of where the rail starts).... maybe using angle iron will improve your build time for the slats (but the cost would go up)   I'll post a picture of my slats later may help someone out for an idea in the future.

10 engineers, 10 alternative solutions
Rob

Albert Einstein ― “If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't understand it yourself.”

Offline Hood

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Re: Physical buttons for plasma
« Reply #259 on: March 05, 2016, 03:17:04 PM »
Thanks for the replies.

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Nice control cabinet, luv the keyboard.

That is the keyboard I had on the wee lathe, the only pain about it is it has keys for WWW. And Smily faces, must have come out of an Internet Cafe or something.

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Is that a water table tray, my concern is that it will not work for downdraft??
It is just a tray, no water. Tell me more about the best way to do for downdraught as I know absolutely nothing about it. :)
I was planning on having a fan in a box below and have some form of seal when the table in normal position.


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I would also fit some hard stops so that the tilting system can jam solidly against them to remove any twist in the tilting frame.

The Y axis will be made of 100mm x 100mm x 6mm steel box joined with 100mm x 100mm x 8mm angle so I dont think it is going to twist much but it will be against an angle at the rear and I will have  bottle screws at the front to tension it. If I do run into issues then I can always put in support legs.








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2p suggestion.... have you thought about offseting your two Y axis so that you get more travel use of your table?
As its drawn, offset toward the back of the machine, given as its shown your torch will be on the front, hence can reach the front rail of your table at the front but may be 100mm from the back of the table?
Not 100% sure what you are meaning but I think I have what you are saying, see first pic.

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Is the rear of the table not going to catch on the frame (around where the rails are) when you tip it up, so you may need to offset the table pivot point further forward?

As you can see on the vid there is clearance, I have made the frame transparent in the vid. The outer frame was originally going to be 100mm Alu box so that is why it shows bigger than the back rail.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3UIgj_XVgQI&feature=em-upload_owner


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Also you need to think about how you will lock the table whilst you are loading plate or it may tip up.
As you should see in the vid it will come against angle and although not drawn I will have bottle screws to tension down the front, and as I mentioned to Dave legs will be fitted if required.

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The central rail may also become consumable (the central slat support rail, as the cutting power of your torch may exceed the offset depth of where the rail starts).... maybe using angle iron will improve your build time for the slats (but the cost would go up)   I'll post a picture of my slats later may help someone out for an idea in the future.

I have a small gap from the top of the slats to the top of the angle supports, see second pic,  it is 5mm, do you think I should increase that?

Pic below of the inside of the container and the progress so far on the frame. To the right you should also just about be able to make out the profile rails I snagged from a friend, they are not perfect condition but should be fine for a plasma (I hope anyway :D ) They are 35mm wide, so quite substantial and bloody heavy.

The Gantry I will make from 4” x 4” x 1/4” 6082t alu, hopefully it will be rigid enough, if not then I can double up on it.

Hood