On screen DRO shows the axis are moving, all 4 of them.

I've swapped the x and y on the board to verify that the drivers are working and the motors are working. All 4 drivers and all 4 motors move when connected to the X axis on the breakout board.

I've enabled pin 14  and disabled pin 14 and neither had an affect. The X axis works both ways.

I will get the xml file tonight


Just to make sure the breakout boards aren't fried, I ordered two more. Hopefully they will get here by Saturday.

Here's my XML file

www.fernohosting.com/CNC/Mach3Mill.xml

All 4 drivers and all 4 motors move when connected to the X axis on the breakout board.
In that case we should assume that the drivers and motors are OK.

Which leaves the breakout board itself and the signals going into the BoB. You need to check both to see if there are any 'gaps' in the signal flow.  Replacing the BoB is certainly one way of making these checks without any detailed probing.

I f replacing the BoB does not bring a cure, you will have to look further upstream.

Cheers
Roger

All 4 drivers and all 4 motors move when connected to the X axis on the breakout board.
In that case we should assume that the drivers and motors are OK.

Which leaves the breakout board itself and the signals going into the BoB. You need to check both to see if there are any 'gaps' in the signal flow.  Replacing the BoB is certainly one way of making these checks without any detailed probing.

I f replacing the BoB does not bring a cure, you will have to look further upstream.

Cheers
Roger

Yeah, kind of my way of thinking about it.
I'd do probing if
1) I knew what I was trying to see with the probe
2) It could be done with a multimeter
3) If I hadn't just blown off the probes on my multimeter. (more probes on the way)

If I hadn't just blown off the probes on my multimeter.
The mind boggles! I have an image of a molten probe tips ...

You could EASILY make up a logic probe with a red LED and a 220 ohm resistor and a couple of bits of stiff copper wire. Ever so useful.

Cheers
Roger

If I hadn't just blown off the probes on my multimeter.
The mind boggles! I have an image of a molten probe tips ...

You could EASILY make up a logic probe with a red LED and a 220 ohm resistor and a couple of bits of stiff copper wire. Ever so useful.

Cheers
Roger

Actually, there was no melting of probes. There was a bright white light a loud pop and the ensuing green blind spot in my vision.

Does it have to be a red LED? I have green, blue, yellow, amber, orange, IR, UV and white.

I think I have some 220Ω resistors around here somewhere.
I know I have blank multimeter probes that I could morph into a holder for an LED and resistor. hmmm.

It can be any colour you want.
I suggest that neither IR nor UV are good choices as you can't see them
White is attractive but white LEDs require about 3.6 V, which is not going to work too well when you are checking 3.3 V logic chips. They might work, sort of. Red LEDs require about 1.2 V from memory.

Logic probes are much faster than multimeters, plus you can leave a few LEDs in the output screw terminals for a while.

I have some test boxes which consist of a numbered row of Red LEDs with a multi-core cable ending in a selection of Ezy-Hooks. I colour-coded the Ezy-Hooks to the resistor colour code. Hook the clips up, jiggle Mach3, watch the pretty lights flash.

Cheers
Roger

I threw a little sarcasm in there for humor. It might have missed it's mark.

I wasn't finding a 220Ω resistor too easy  so I am going to use a 560Ω and a blue LED. Just for style. I might even pull out a few and hook them up but for now, here are my results.

Without Mach3 running and the 24v supply turned off, I only have the 5v USB power on the BoB.

Probing the output pins I get the following

P2 -
P3 +
P4 -
P5 -
P6 +
P7 +
P8 +
P9 +

This tells me something is wrong

ok had a look to your XML.
it seems to be bad, it contains only Step per, ACC and Vel infomation for axis 0 (x).
i know that Information is shown for the other axis in Motor Tuning, dont ask me why.

so i would start with a new fresh Profile, Setup axis should not take very Long.

A blue LED has a higher voltage drop, above 4V (like a white LED). It is probably the worst choice for this. If you don't have a red LED, try an orange one. Basically, the longer the wavelength, the lower the voltage. (And a red LED is more like 1.8V - my bad.)

Now, fire up Mach and see if you can get any changes to those results by toggling the Active Hi/Lo boxes in Mach.

Cheers
Roger