Vince,

Its only supported in the front. The front panel is .250 Alum plate. The bottom is tapered in about an inch above the base.
the bottom is attached to the back panels and the front panel which has the legs. I wanted enough room under to shove my shop vac and 5 gal pails out of the way.

ED

Hi Vince,

Sorry to hear about the work slow down. Very nice sterling you are making there.

Tweakie.

I been sitting around with a cold but decided to work in the garage anyway.  I made up the balance disk.  There is a small hole that is .7" deep that needs to be tapped 2-56.  My 2-56 tap is about 5 threads short.  I will have to go to the tool supply shop and see if I can get a longer one.

Vince

Vince,
Nice going on the Miser. Surely gets the mind off of other things.
RICH

Vince,

As the hole is for a grub screw couldn't the hole be counter bored, say,the diameter of the tap shank then only tapped for the length of the grub screw ?. This could save the expense of buying a special, long tap.

Tweakie.

................and the likelihood of breaking it off (if I were to try it).
 
RC

I thought about counter boring.  The tap shaft is .140" and the part is .250 thick.  That would leave me .055" for a wall thickness, which probably wouldn't matter.  I don't have a mill that size, I would have to do it with a drill.  In the instructions supplied by Howell, he does not mention counter boring so I am assuming there is a tap out there that can do it.

Vince

Vince,
  Another option you might use is to just tap the first portion of the hole, then insert a brass plug under the set-screw to clamp against the shaft. Also prevents the screw from marring the shaft.
RC

I thought about that as well.  That is how most of the set screws on my Hardinge CHNC are set up.

Vince

I got two days work, Thursday and Friday so I won't get anything done until the weekend.  I did stop by the tool store and it seems no one makes a pulley tap in 2-56 threads so it looks like I will counter bore.

Vince