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Author Topic: Miser engine  (Read 30584 times)

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Re: Miser engine
« Reply #20 on: February 26, 2009, 09:37:52 PM »
Vince,
   grind some clearence on the shank behind the threads, but first run the tap as far as it will go, then grind and go easy.
I've done this a few times.

ED
Ed VanEss

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Re: Miser engine
« Reply #21 on: March 01, 2009, 02:27:15 PM »
I am just getting over the worst cold of my life.  I have only had about 5 colds in my life so I feel real sorry for those who get them.  On Friday I actually had water squirt out of my right eye far enough to hit the inside of my glasses.  Of course I finally got some work on Thursday and Friday, where I spent the time in jail (I was working on an electrical project in the jail facility).  I managed to suffer through it, but spent the rest of the time in bed sleeping. 

Today I got a chance to counter bore the balance disk.  I went down .25".  It looks good.  The tap came through the hole to the center.  At no point did I feel like the tap was going to break.  A 6-32 tap feels a lot worse.  I took it slow and only rotated 90 degrees before backing up 180 degrees.  On to the next part.

Vince

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Re: Miser engine
« Reply #22 on: March 01, 2009, 07:18:22 PM »
I spent 3 hours making another part.  If I had an automatic tool changer and I knew what I was doing, it would have taken 10 minutes.  This part is called a crank arm.  The part was pretty simple to program and make, but my trouble was parting the piece off the bar stock.  The first one I destroyed in my lathe with improperly adjusted parting tool.  The second one I crushed in my mill trying to mill off the back of the part.  I finally found a .020" slitting saw that I was able to use the cut the part off.  The part is made from 1/2" steel drill rod.

The larger hole was reamed to 5/32".  The smaller hole is drilled and tapped 0-80.  I was not able to get a pilot hole for the .046" drill ( it was too close to the boss) so I just took it easy and peck drilled it .020" at a time.  I tapped it by hand,  I was only comfortable turning the tap 45 degrees before backing it off and clearing the chip.  I did not break a tap though.

I am not a machinist by trade and these little projects are teaching me a lot.  I'm sure by the time I die I will know about 25% of what I need to.

Vince
« Last Edit: March 01, 2009, 07:24:42 PM by N4NV »
Re: Miser engine
« Reply #23 on: March 01, 2009, 10:39:56 PM »
Vince,

 Looks like your doing a good job . Myself , I'd rather work on big stuff.
Yesterday had to make repair parts for a Manitowoc Crane.

Ed
Ed VanEss

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Re: Miser engine
« Reply #24 on: March 01, 2009, 10:49:07 PM »
I know what you mean, I like working on the big stuff at work, when someone else is paying for the material.  I started on machining when I purchased a watch lathe to fix pocket watches.  I have gone full circle.  I went to a Bridgeport to a 4,500 pound Yamazen knee mill, to a 5,000 pound CHNC, down to a taig lathe, and now I am getting the parts together to convert my watch lathe to CNC.

Vince

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Re: Miser engine
« Reply #25 on: March 04, 2009, 08:22:17 PM »
I have not finished any more parts as I have been trying to fix an out of true chuck.  I was finally successful.  Now maybe I can move ahead.

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/showthread.php?t=175951

Vince

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Re: Miser engine
« Reply #26 on: March 05, 2009, 05:43:02 PM »
I finished the top and bottom displacer plates.  What a pain.  I still have not figure out a good way to hold a piece of sheet metal (the plates are only 1/8" thick) while trying to machine out a circle.  I clamped a piece of wood to the top of my vice and used sheet metal screws to hold down the sheet metal.  Even so, it moved one time and I had to set it all up again.  The bottom plate does not have any holes in it large enough to screw it to the wood.  There are twenty four 0-80 screws that hold the top and bottom plate to the Delrin columns. 

Vince
Re: Miser engine
« Reply #27 on: March 05, 2009, 06:39:30 PM »
Vince,

 Very nice job your doing.
Sometimes  , I  mill around half way , and clamp where you just machined , and move clamps till your done. I just use feed hold, and move clamps. CAREFULLY.

Ed
Ed VanEss

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Re: Miser engine
« Reply #28 on: March 05, 2009, 08:24:31 PM »
Vince,
To hold a piece of thin metal there are a few tricks that you can do.
Double backed carpet tape will hold it to a flat piece of wood or sacrificial plate. Another way is expoy
glue it to the plate ( Dabs and use a little heat to soften up the epxoy). Just need to be carefull
when removing  the thin plate from the other. Very light cuts also.
Works for me,
RICH
 

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Re: Miser engine
« Reply #29 on: March 05, 2009, 08:31:05 PM »
BTW, If your so inclinded, there are postings which analyze the thermodynamics of the miser.
The analyzation was at a rather high level if memory serves me. Some college posted it.
Just adds another dimension to a project.
RICH