You must provide a path for the computer signals.

The LPT1 port provide 12 out, 5 input and the other 7 wires are signal return, which is at 0v (to the computer.

When you are connecting to the Geckos - the Geckos also require a +5volt supply to the input side, to power the opto electronics - and note I said on the input side - .

You therefore need a supply of 0-5volt.[color=Black] I would not recommend you using a voltage regulator off the 37,5 volts [/color] - because this is on the output side. You would be best to use a seperate mini supply which are readily and cheaply available for games consoles, phone chargers etc. Regulate that with your 5 volt regulator. Your input side is then completly seperate to your output.

The +5volt from your mini supply goes to the Gecko. The step and dir wires from your LPT1 socket go to the Gecko. The 0v lead from your mini supply goes to the signal return on the LPT1 socket (any one of the seven). This is necessary to give the Gecko a reference for the signal from the computer.
Your step and dir pins need to be active low since the are "pulling down" the 5 volt supply to the Gecko through the opto isolation diode.

It is not necessary to make any connection between the input side of you Gecko to the output (37v) side.

Jamie,
Here is concept of signal flow.  You define in Mach which parallel port pin will be used for step or  direction. Mach sends the
signal out that pin thru port #1 via the cable to proper drive terminal. I just showed one example and a box to represent a 
connection  on the controller box and  one  drive. You need to assign one for the step and one for the direction for each of the drives.
As you can see they must follow thru the system. Please make sure the above wiring is correct for the pin settings you have defiined for each motor.

Something I want you to check. I don't know how big your steppers are. If you limit the current to too small a current value the stepper may not turn.


RICH

Jamie,
In config go to motor tuning and put the following values in for each drive and make sure you "save setting" before you go out of that dialog
box. Note that you need to actualy calculate the steps / unit based on ....these are only a quess on my part and should at least make the
motors move in some fashion.

Do you have any info on the  stepper motors?
How many full turns of the handwheel is required to move the X  table  1"? or How many threads on each axis screw per inch?
RICH

Jamie,
I also have a Bridgemill with a Camtronics box. If you are still having trouble call Dan at Camtronics. He emailed me a copy of his manual and gave me some ideas for setting my system up. Originally there was a USB cable that gave the +5V for the Geckos. The breakout board in the camtronics box is just a streight thru board with no electronics. If you PC only puts out 3.3v on the PP, it can't drive the Geckos. I switched to a CNC4PC C11G breakout board. This board raises the signals of the PP to 5 v so it can drive the Geckos. One way to check it is to use a multi meter and measure the voltage at the pins on the breakout board when Mach is sending info. It should be at least 4.5 v otherwise you will need a PP that will put out that much or a break out board that will boost the power. Another thing to check is the enable/disable switch. If this isn't hooked up correctly, the system won't output power to the motors.

I've since rewired my box and changed many of the connectors. I have an E stop on the machine between the mill and lathe switches, and limit switches on all 3 axes. Future plans are to change the motors to variable speed and add a motor for the mill lift. I've also got a rotary table with a stepper and a G251 to run the 4th axes. Take a look in the Shoptask section here for more info.

If you still need help getting the system up post and we will try to help.

David

Correction, check the shoptask section on cnczone.com, sorry.

David