I read that some mill users feel that laser precision is not as it should be and that using a laser is more for router and wood and such. Looks like the precision for an initial setup of piece of material to machine is basically the same using most methods of locating zero on the part and the fact that once established, zero remains throughout the course of programs to complete the part. So it doesn't matter. And when a pre-rmachined part must be set-up for additional machining or modification, the set-up is the most demanding portion, usually devouring most of the time to complete the job - so any and all methods (and instruments) to set the part up are used and this laser would greatly simplify the first stage of set-up. I wish to add this to my mill in the near future.

I've followed most of the posts about these lasers and the cross hair laser appears to be the type with the most precision for setting up. There are sources for them - which is the best to use and who handles them?

Thanks much,
Bill C.

Hi Bill,

I will not get into a debate with those downplaying the accuracy of the Laser for mill work as I agree with them 100% and have always said so. The reason I have one is because some jobs of mine are just a bunch of parts laid out and cut on a sheet of material, and what's a better, faster (and cooler!) way of finding the corner of the sheet than a laser  ?? Especially when it's such a cheap thing to do. The lines are about .010" so that gives you an idea of the limitaions with this device.

For doing pre-squared up parts, I'll either use an edge finder or the touchplate I have and that's as accurate I need to be with this tiny mill (within .001").

The crosshair laser can be found here:

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5942~r.91939619

Hope that helps!
Dave

  @ Tweak

I'm gonna hafta get me one of those lasers too. There just way to convenient to use for me not to have one.

Hey Dave,

No debate here. Just thinking out loud, so-to-speak. An initial set-up with extra material would be fine with .010 tolerance and then once the machining commences you have nothing to be concerned with so long as maintaining that initial set-up co-ordinate is not an issue. But, setting up a pre-machined part for mods or continued machining - no way would .010 suffice. That's why I'm not in this 'debate' at all since I'm 'set' in my way of thinking about setting up a part. I have all sorts of gadgets for set-up with pretty fair accuracy - as the job justifies. Most of the time, an engineer or designer will allow adequate extra stock that along with the math to find the part in it, .010 will make nil difference. Sometimes in these situations a scale and eyeball will do. Then, that must be maintained and a laser pointer will be just fine initially. (I believe you just said that!) Everyone has a tolerance limit that a part is made by, some must read it on a print and some have it in their blood.

Anyhow; thanks for the info on making the purchase....appreciate it!

Bill C.

OK Sam, I'm just in here a little late. You old timers just keep leading the way! Too bad that as society is today; it takes another old timer to enjoy what is going on here....

Bill C.


>>""LOL @ Tweak. Na, my humor is not to make people angry. I try to just have fun and hopefully make friends. Lot's of times people just don't see my comments the way their intended, they get offended, and then I wont cross there path again. One quote I remind people of...... "Don't take life to seriously, none of us are going to make it out alive"""<<


That did seem a bit of a dig, not humor, then no response - now that's funny!

Glad to be of help, Bill, have fun - 

Dave

DAVE,
Thanks for the link and ordered one just to play around with. Another tool for the toolbox!
RICH

A new speed plate for my mill....  

Dave

That is just great Dave. You now have the smartest looking mill in the country. 

Tweakie.

Hi, all, thought I should post up some pics of the pendant I'm working on (continuously!. This a combination LCD/Shuttle Pro 2 pendant that I've cobbled together so I can have best of both worlds in one unit.

It's made of 2 halves from HDPE topped with a layer of engraving sheet (traffolite for Tweaks) with a faux brushed steel .010 cap to engrave through. I loaded a screenshot of the button assembly which after that was milled out, I had to saw a slot between each button "finger" loose, so that it would be independent from the button next to it when activated.  So far, so good and this will be conected to my controller cart...... whenever I get done with that  

Thanks,
Dave