Machsupport Forum
General CNC Chat => Show"N"Tell ( What you have made with your CNC machine.) => Topic started by: budman68 on June 22, 2008, 05:22:29 PM
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Rather than clog up tweakie's wood routing thread with my garbage, I thought I'd start a new one for some of the things I've been working on.
The first one is a vac jig I just completed for engraving some parts
that I make. As you can see it is a basic vac pump that has a filter,
vac gage and connects via the coil hose to a ball valve which is
connected to the jig I've made. The jig consists of a hollowed out
base with an o-ring groove and o-ring to seal to the top plate when
installed.
The top plate has a nesting cavity with it's own o-ring to hold the
parts I make (triangle with holes) for engraving. This allows a nice
quick change from one part to the next. What's nice about this setup
is the fact that I can make more top plates and interchange them from
one style of part to the next via dowel pins for location each top
plate.
I'm so please with the way this works!
The next "toy" is the LED Spindle light. I tore apart an outdoor LED
low voltage lighting lamp ($3.05 on clearance at Lowes!) that has 6
superbright LEDs.
In the first pic you can see the roll of tape and how many shadows
are on the inside and this gets even worse when you get the headstock
down low with a cutter inside and you're trying to move in on a
pocket or a similar situation.
I've seen the LED rings that others made for their X3 mills and
thought that would be perfect for me but I'd have to come up with a
different mounting idea as there's no room under the headstock for
something like this. So a sort of "collar" would have to do. It's
made from black acetal 375 thick and the pocket depth on mine is .250
but needless to say, feel free to modify it any way you'd like.
Sorry I didn't get any pics of the inside of the housing inside but
when you see the dxf for it , you'll get the jist of the pocketing for the wires. As for
led hole locations, those are totally up to you and the cover cap can
be made using the same outside profile as the base. For the wiring, I
used a 12 volt wall wart transfomer that is plugged into my main
outlet center and turns on when I power everything up. You could add
a inline rotary switch if you desire though.
Just thought I'd pass this along as it's a quick project that really
helps out, just don't make these up and sell them on ebay- lol!!!
Note, I now see that someone is selling something just like this (
but more professional looking lol!!!) but the 2 lights in the front
would not be adequate enough as I've palyed with light location for a
bit to get it evenly spaced. Since my lights are all around the
spindle, it spreads the light out so you have light in the back as
well without ANY shadows.
Hope you enjoyed these!
Dave-
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more vac jig pics
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Now for the LED pics...
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More spindle light pics..
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Good work Budman. Both will be very useful to you I'm sure. Vaccum fixtures are the bomb. ;D
Brett
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Hey Dave,
That's pretty sweet, nice to be able to see what's going on.
I'm not familiar with a Taig, what is this pin/plunger deal ? Is it a lock or stop of sorts ?
I notice it's up and down in different photos.
Just curious......REAL nice work, keep on keepin' on,
RC
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Thanks for the kind words fellas and no, RC, that's not moving, I just finally got tired of it being in the way at times and cut it off as they're pressed in there and can't be removed unless you remove the table and get a puller on it, lol!
I just took the pics "around" the time that was done.
Good eye, though! :D
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Brilliant work Budman.
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Dave,
Really nice. Sure does beat carpet tape or glue to hold stuff down. Picked up a vacuum pump some time ago and planned on making a table but that's as far as it got.
Have a few questions.
What is the gasket size & material and where purchased?
Have you considered making a generic plate with numerous holes yet?
Anything to consider when porting the base in terms of volume?
RICH
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Thanks, fellas - :)
Have a few questions.
What is the gasket size & material and where purchased?
Have you considered making a generic plate with numerous holes yet?
Anything to consider when porting the base in terms of volume?
Rich, the gasket material I use is Viton AS568A Aerospace Standard 1/16th "O ring" material and I leave it about .002 above the surface of the aluminum. The O rings run oversized so get the oring material before you start machining - ;)
As for the Plate with random holes, funny you mentioned that as I'm in the middle of desgning one at the moment. It's not done as obviously there's no holes for the pump as of yet but you'll get the idea from the pics below - (pay no attention to the sheet metal pop up balloon up on the left. I had my cursor over that function when I copied the screen shot - :P )
As for porting the base in terms of volume, since I'm not a math major by any means, I have read that the more area to create the vacuum, the stronger the pull. I experimented with abs plastic first and came up with the design you see as it worked perfectly for me.
Hope that helps!
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Thanks for the info Dave,
I assume that the plate you show is the base. You may want to consider porting and sectioning the base such you can put some small items or large items on it. Additionaly, if the base is sectioned as shown by the grey lines and you can turn off a section so more of the vacuum pumps suction can be applied to section being used. Placing tape or dense hard rubber over open holes would seal unused holes. The attached shows a number of holes in the top plate and the sectioning of the bottom plate. Makes it more complicated but more usable. You may want to get some Corian scraps and try that for a base.
Keeping it real "rough & basic" from the design point of view for the top plate.
If a perfect vacuum was pulled then you would get a holdown equal to 15 # per square inch. With an 1/8" hole,
it's area would be .012 sq in and times 15 #/ sq in = .2# of holdown per hole. With leackage, assume you get only
.1 # of holdown. This gives you an idea on the number of holes and would change how the base was ported for a section. Just a few thoughts.
RICH
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Hi Rich,
Thanks for the info as well but since the plate was not finished, I don't think you might be understanding what I'm doing as I wasn't descriptive enough, or I just don't understand your reply, lol!
The cross slots you see will be filled with an o ring material to "block-off" a certain area. Much like the picture of a vac grid I've seen before. The main hole for the fitting will be in the center on the side (long section) and a 1/4" hole will go down from the top surface to the main hole for the fitting to create a "channel" that will reach out to all slots until they're blocked off with the o ring material. As I mentioned, there a lot of ideas I have this such as hold down screws for blocking in parts so they don't shift on me.
Here's a larger scale plate that I've seen but made for a router table:
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Got it Dave,
Please continue posting as it progresses. It will be of value on my end when building one for the engraving machine.
RICH
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Will do, Rich, how big is your engraving machine?
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Dave,
Small and sits on a movable bench. I have it posted under SHOW AND Tell. The link is below.
No speed demon, it was built for accuracy. Additionaly to do probing, just not ready to go thru another
learning experience on the probing.
http://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php/topic,6904.0.html
RICH
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what a very slick machine!!! :o
Is this the machine you did the chopper mirros and grim reaper parts on?
Very nice- :)
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design update - :)
The outer tapped holes are for side clamping to keep material from sliding laterally if needed.
The rest is pretty much self explanitory. :P
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Hey Budman,
Mind to share the .tap file for that grid ?
Thanks,
Lazy (RC)
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I haven't done the CAM work on it as of yet, but when I do, I'll be happy to!
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Thanks Budman,
The mirrors and the reaper plate were done on an old / small Atlas knee mill which I converted to CNC. Should probably post on it. The inlayed plate was done on the engraving machine. The pain on the engraving machine is holding down a real thin piece, very flat and being able to remove it without distorting it. So ground vacuum plate would probably do the trick. Some of the anticipated engraving work will be very light say 2 or 3 thou. I'm just goofy on some of things we try to make, but it's fun.
RICH
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Thanks Budman,
That will come in handy some day I'm sure.
RICH,
By all means....I'd really like to see the "Atlas".
RC
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I actually had a thought, here's the dxf since you'll probably want to run it differently than me anyhow:
EDIT:
I noticed I had the dxf for this table in only half scale, sorry about that. :-[
I have since uploaded the correct 11" X 4" size.
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Laser jig is finally setup :)
This is a simple laser jig setup that I "lifted" from Greolt (Greg) from here and the CNC Zone. He shared his macro and I must say I love it for those "not so precise" setups when you just want to find a quick location of material. I have a lazer button setup on my Mach 3 screen and when I have the laser just over the area I want to start cutting, I just click the button and the X and Y travel over to the exact point the laser crosshair previously was. The Laser holder is made from black acetal.
My vac jig is just about completed and it works perfectly with the 1/8' O-ring gasket. And just so nobody asks, "how the heck is that working?", the black piece of HDPE is just sitting on top of the vac jig to show the crosshairs, it is obviously not being "pulled" down as it's not completely covering the gasket.
I still want to make some side clamps to keep the material from moving laterally when being machined or engraved. Double faced tape is good but If I can get this to work, which it seems to be, it'll make material changes nuch easier and quicker.
My Mach screen really doesn't look that bad but I can't seem to upload a BMP on here so when I convert it, it get's all fuzzy with weird colors.. :D
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A shot of the vac grid by itself. It was made from Nylatron and was free so I can't complain. I'd like to do a longer grid someday but this will do for now :)
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Looking good. Keep posting.
RICH
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Looks like a truss rod cover. --TP
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Thanks as always, Rich ;)
And yes, you're quite right, Tim, but you knew that already, didn't you - ;)
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Got a different monitor for my Taig mill setup and thought you might get a kick out of seeing it.
It's a used 20" Barco Rough Service monitor and it served time in one of our many U.S.A. submarines and it's built like a tank....er....uh....Sub, :D
Sorry about the glare in the pic, but it's a really sharp flat panel LCD that can withstand temps from -13 degr F to 131 degr F.
Oh, and if you'll notice my shuttle Pro to the left, I mounted a swivel finger knob to the aluminum center wheel which makes a nice feel. Much like an MPG ;)
I still have to get working on my keyboard/mouse console.......soon....
Thanks,
Dave
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It seems we have a guitar enthusiast among us.
exhibit "A"
Looks like a truss rod cover. --TP
And yes, you're quite right, Tim, but you knew that already, didn't you -
exhibit "B" is a photo with the ESP logo on it. Have you made any guitar bodies Dave?
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Yes Dave, answer the man! Have you? ;D
Brett
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I mill quiet a bit of that same plastic material. The static cling on that stuff is unreal, isn't it! I usually end up still getting chips of it in my end of the day cleanings for a couple weeks after the job is done.
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Actually yes, but only by hand as I don't have a CNC router....yet. This would be the next machine that I'd like to build but that would be down the road a bit. I don't make guitar bodies or necks for sale, only for my personal use.
Thanks,
Dave
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I mill quiet a bit of that same plastic material. The static cling on that stuff is unreal, isn't it! I usually end up still getting chips of it in my end of the day cleanings for a couple weeks after the job is done.
Definitely, what material/brand are you using? Do you have site to show your wares as well?
Dave
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I have no idea what the brand is, or even the name of the material. I don't purchase it, but I certainly do recognize it. It is a common job that comes up where I work. I do have a few sites, but none show anything I sell. Loose lips sink ships as the old saying goes. Paranoia, greed, whatever. Lots of pics from my army friends, and maybe a few cnc and hobby pics, but that's about it. http://sinistersam.com/gallery2/main.php I have been planning on making a guitar body, but its still in the design phase. These things take time ya know. It's only been over a year from concept. Don't rush me. I'm letting the wood acclimate to the shop environment. Yeah, that's it.
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You have to be careful what's in the pictures you post Dave because that Sam has eagle eyes and he does not miss a thing.
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lol! Apparently! :D
Dave
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WHERE DID YOU GET THAT LAZER AND LAZER HOLDER
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WHERE DID YOU GET THAT LAZER AND LAZER HOLDER
I actually made the laser holder out of black delrin and I got the laser from some online store in china or Japan. I'll have to look for the link and get back to you.
Oh, and please stop yelling at me with all your capital letters - ;) :D
Dave
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I think I'm deaf in my right eye now. :)
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I didn't hear anything !.
Tweakie.
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I read that some mill users feel that laser precision is not as it should be and that using a laser is more for router and wood and such. Looks like the precision for an initial setup of piece of material to machine is basically the same using most methods of locating zero on the part and the fact that once established, zero remains throughout the course of programs to complete the part. So it doesn't matter. And when a pre-rmachined part must be set-up for additional machining or modification, the set-up is the most demanding portion, usually devouring most of the time to complete the job - so any and all methods (and instruments) to set the part up are used and this laser would greatly simplify the first stage of set-up. I wish to add this to my mill in the near future.
I've followed most of the posts about these lasers and the cross hair laser appears to be the type with the most precision for setting up. There are sources for them - which is the best to use and who handles them?
Thanks much,
Bill C.
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Hi Bill,
I will not get into a debate with those downplaying the accuracy of the Laser for mill work as I agree with them 100% and have always said so. The reason I have one is because some jobs of mine are just a bunch of parts laid out and cut on a sheet of material, and what's a better, faster (and cooler!) way of finding the corner of the sheet than a laser :) ?? Especially when it's such a cheap thing to do. The lines are about .010" so that gives you an idea of the limitaions with this device.
For doing pre-squared up parts, I'll either use an edge finder or the touchplate I have and that's as accurate I need to be with this tiny mill (within .001").
The crosshair laser can be found here:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5942~r.91939619
Hope that helps!
Dave
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;D ;D ;D @ Tweak
I'm gonna hafta get me one of those lasers too. There just way to convenient to use for me not to have one.
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Hey Dave,
No debate here. Just thinking out loud, so-to-speak. An initial set-up with extra material would be fine with .010 tolerance and then once the machining commences you have nothing to be concerned with so long as maintaining that initial set-up co-ordinate is not an issue. But, setting up a pre-machined part for mods or continued machining - no way would .010 suffice. That's why I'm not in this 'debate' at all since I'm 'set' in my way of thinking about setting up a part. I have all sorts of gadgets for set-up with pretty fair accuracy - as the job justifies. Most of the time, an engineer or designer will allow adequate extra stock that along with the math to find the part in it, .010 will make nil difference. Sometimes in these situations a scale and eyeball will do. Then, that must be maintained and a laser pointer will be just fine initially. (I believe you just said that!) Everyone has a tolerance limit that a part is made by, some must read it on a print and some have it in their blood.
Anyhow; thanks for the info on making the purchase....appreciate it!
Bill C.
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OK Sam, I'm just in here a little late. You old timers just keep leading the way! Too bad that as society is today; it takes another old timer to enjoy what is going on here....
Bill C.
>>""LOL @ Tweak. Na, my humor is not to make people angry. I try to just have fun and hopefully make friends. Lot's of times people just don't see my comments the way their intended, they get offended, and then I wont cross there path again. One quote I remind people of...... "Don't take life to seriously, none of us are going to make it out alive"""<<
That did seem a bit of a dig, not humor, then no response - now that's funny!
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Glad to be of help, Bill, have fun - ;)
Dave
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DAVE,
Thanks for the link and ordered one just to play around with. Another tool for the toolbox!
RICH
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A new speed plate for my mill.... 8)
Dave
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That is just great Dave. You now have the smartest looking mill in the country. ;D
Tweakie.
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Hi, all, thought I should post up some pics of the pendant I'm working on (continuously!. This a combination LCD/Shuttle Pro 2 pendant that I've cobbled together so I can have best of both worlds in one unit.
It's made of 2 halves from HDPE topped with a layer of engraving sheet (traffolite for Tweaks) with a faux brushed steel .010 cap to engrave through. I loaded a screenshot of the button assembly which after that was milled out, I had to saw a slot between each button "finger" loose, so that it would be independent from the button next to it when activated. So far, so good and this will be conected to my controller cart...... whenever I get done with that ;D
Thanks,
Dave
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more pics..........
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Wow, that does look slick Dave - really nice indeed - excellent work, my friend.
Tweakie.
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Thanks, Tweaks, that means a lot coming from you- ;)
Dave
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Very nice work Dave !
That's a keen idea.
(a little praise from the lower echelon) ;D
Any cool Christmas gifts to share with us this year ?
And how bout York ?
Russ
:)
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Would anyone happen to know if I can wire the LCD and the shuttle pro 2 together at the pendant and then run one cord to the PC? Or is this too much voltage.
I have the pdf's for the controller and and the LCD, but not sure what the Shuttle is as I can only find an owners manual, not a spec sheet on voltage.
I'm able to run them together using a passive hub into one USB port on the controller, but do passive hubs have any special circuitry?
Thanks,
Dave
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That's gotta be on of the slickest pendants so far. Very quality job, Dave!
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Sweet!!!!
Brett
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NICE :)
RICH
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Would anyone happen to know if I can wire the LCD and the shuttle pro 2 together at the pendant and then run one cord to the PC? Or is this too much voltage.
Hi Dave,
Are you just meaning the supply for the backlight for the LCD ??
Tweakie.
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Good morning, fellas, and thank you for the very kind words - :)
Tweaks, no sir, the USB/Serial controller is "piggybacked" to the LCD so the whole assembly and the Shuttle would be tied together into one cable.
I've been learning a few things from a fella over at the Vectric forum, and he's helping me to use a very small USB hub to go inside the pendant casing, but it's going to be tricky as I do not have a "lot" of room in there. I'm also a good solderer, but I've got a shaking problem and I've lost my "touch" so to speak. It'll be a challenge for sure trying to work with these super small contacts :D
I'll keep you posted!
Russ, my friend, I'm sorry, no Xmas gifts made from CNC this year, all store bought this time around. What's sad is that I did a make a friend a plaque for his dog on my wood router but it turned into a nightmare and scrapped it. That's what I get for not taking those baby steps first! As for York, it doesn't look good as my daughter can not drive (issues) and I have to take her to work everyday and unfortunately she's working that whole weekend. It's killing me as I'd absolutely love to get down there even if it's just to meet a few of you guys.
Thanks again, and Happy Holidays!
Dave
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Shame you won't be at the show Dave, quess I'll just give your gift to Russ. >:D
RICH