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Author Topic: Routing Wood  (Read 78630 times)

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Offline Chris.Botha

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Re: Routing Wood
« Reply #100 on: August 26, 2009, 01:19:18 AM »
nice stuff!!

Offline Tweakie.CNC

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Re: Routing Wood
« Reply #101 on: August 26, 2009, 02:42:36 AM »
Do you know, I have been doing 'percussive maintenance' for years now and I never knew what it was called.
Thanks.  ;)

Tweakie.
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Re: Routing Wood
« Reply #102 on: August 29, 2009, 12:12:50 PM »
Hi Tweakie, I'm an absolute beginner at all this. I thought for my fist wood cut I'd try your nice gemma in an MDF just to see hows things worked out. I loaded my nice new 3mm ball nose cutter, set my spindle speed to 3000 as suggested, then loaded gemma into mach 3. zero'd everything. touched on the workpiece with the cutter and zero'd the Z axis. Then I run the code.
Bang. the tool dived to 6mm below the surface of the MDF and the poor old thing couldnt keep up with the feed rate (300) and snapped within 3 seconds of travel.
So, what did I do wrong ?

George
One step at a time!

Offline Tweakie.CNC

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Re: Routing Wood
« Reply #103 on: August 31, 2009, 05:08:54 AM »
Not quite sure what went wrong George.

I know that MDF is horrible stuff to cut compared with hardwood as the tool clogs up instantly. I did suggest reducing the feedrate for the first cut to reduce this problem but I must admit that I have never tried to cut the Gemme plaque in MDF.
Perhaps two passes at 1/2 depth each may be the answer.

Tweakie.
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Re: Routing Wood
« Reply #104 on: August 31, 2009, 06:34:39 AM »
Thanks for that, Yeah I did see you reccomendation to reduce the speed for the first cut but wasnt sure how to do that.

However I did find a useful command in CAMBAM which was 'level first' I selected this for another test job and that seemed to be a bit better.

I've a lot to learn, I have built a very nice router bed 1.2mtrs x 600mm using twin ball screws on the x axis. I opted for a 1.5kw spindle motor and it seems to be fine. I will admit I'm strugling on cut speeds, rotaional spindle speeds, tool diameter and a whole host of other things. Guess I gotta learn to walk before I run!

Thanks

George
One step at a time!

Offline RICH

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Re: Routing Wood
« Reply #105 on: August 31, 2009, 07:33:10 AM »
GEORGE,
Nothing will beat experience. Start keeping some notes on what you did. Cut depth, spindle rpm, and feed.
Suggest you just try a few experiments ( plunge cut, climb mill on edge, trough the material, etc ). Start with the end mill cutting no deeper that half it's diameter and pay attention to the chips.
I will note that watch out for the small mills, especially as you go below the 2 mm. You can snap them in a heart beat, especially if there is any backlash in the system.
RICH

Offline Tweakie.CNC

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Re: Routing Wood
« Reply #106 on: August 31, 2009, 02:48:18 PM »
Hi George,

Any chance you could post some pictures of your machine, would really like to see them.

Tweakie.
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Offline Tweakie.CNC

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Re: Routing Wood
« Reply #107 on: October 02, 2010, 06:29:02 AM »
At last I have got a short break from the laser, acrylic profiling and can return to working with some real wood.
This relief is approx. 200mm x 150mm and was cut into a piece of Teak. The GCode was created with DeskProto from an .STL file posted on the Zone. Total machining time was about 130 minutes with a 2mm ballnose and 0.25mm stepover.

Tweakie.
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Offline Tweakie.CNC

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Re: Routing Wood
« Reply #108 on: October 04, 2010, 04:37:52 AM »
Photography is definitely not my strong point as the previous picture really does not do any justice at all to the work Mach3 is capable of producing. I have given the wood a bit of a polish - and this picture is only marginally better but it does perhaps show a bit more detail.

Tweakie.
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Offline Sam

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Re: Routing Wood
« Reply #109 on: October 04, 2010, 10:29:58 AM »
Looks great Tweakie, as usual.
"CONFIDENCE: it's the feeling you experience before you fully understand the situation."