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Author Topic: Looking for good DIY controller kit supplier  (Read 4060 times)

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Offline MN300

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Re: Looking for good DIY controller kit supplier
« Reply #150 on: December 14, 2020, 10:24:03 PM »
Let's trust the ST-V2 documentation. The TB6600 DIR and PUL inputs are likely reversed the same way the ENA was.

Too bad about the leak, I hope it dries out soon. There was about 1/2 inch of snow here yesterday.
Re: Looking for good DIY controller kit supplier
« Reply #151 on: December 14, 2020, 10:35:28 PM »
What could result from such a reversal, real time direction contrary to coded direction?

Really enjoying the rain after some 6 years of drought and fire but must first find the leak to fix the leak. It's a very slow drip that follows the rafters from somewhere.
A white Christmas this year?

Offline MN300

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Re: Looking for good DIY controller kit supplier
« Reply #152 on: December 15, 2020, 08:31:55 AM »
Reversal of the DIR would result in the motor running the wrong direction. That's not a big deal since the direction is easily swapped and depends on the mechanics of the system anyway.

The TB6600 steps the motor on the leading edge of the CLK pulse. Its minimum CLK pulse width is 2.2 microseconds. If MACH3 outputs a 5 microseconds pulse and the signal is reversed the trailing edge becomes the leading edge to the TB6600 and the step happens 5 microseconds later. I think you could live with that much delay.
Re: Looking for good DIY controller kit supplier
« Reply #153 on: December 17, 2020, 02:04:32 AM »
All NC limit switches (L/S) working, M1=X, M2=Y and M3=Z. They registered in Mach3 Diagnostics with the LEDs continuously lit. The LEDs would switch off only when a L/S was activated, i.e. circuit opened. And then all at once that reversed. Now the LEDs light up only if the L/S is activated .i e. circuit opened. Is this normal or did some current reversal take place in the BOB?

Should the Mach3 'Diagnostics' 'Output 1' LED light up. How could I test normal output signals.

Still waiting on motor cables; has been sent I'm told.

Offline TPS

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Re: Looking for good DIY controller kit supplier
« Reply #154 on: December 17, 2020, 03:09:35 AM »
attached a small script to test Outputs.
copy it into C:\Mach3\macros\  y o u r  Profilename

useage MDI/code:
M777 P1 Q1 -> Switches Output 1 ON
M777 P1 Q0 -> Switches Output 1 OFF
M777 P2 Q1 -> Switches Output 2 ON
M777 P2 Q0 -> Switches Output 2 OFF
.
.
.
.
anything is possible, just try to do it.
if you find some mistakes, in my bad bavarian english,they are yours.
Re: Looking for good DIY controller kit supplier
« Reply #155 on: December 17, 2020, 05:44:49 AM »
Thanks TPS, copied it to the CNC profile in macros and entered the script. Output 1 responded by flashing the LED in 'Diagnostics' with the P1Q1 code. P2Q1 had no visible effect anywhere in 'Diagnostics'.

Would I be correct to think that the Q1 and Q0 of the code designates the On or Off state of the output; so would I be right to think that P3 would designate the 3rd Output? Or do they designate the BOB P2 to P7 Outputs?

Lots of Questions: What really, are the 'Outputs'; the motor Outputs, the BOB Outputs P2 to P7?
What is actually tested; the Mach3 software's ability to conduct this particular diagnostic process or does this diagnostic actually test all outputs?

Should I leave all outputs in an 'On' state? i.e. P1Q1, P2Q1 etc?

Offline TPS

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Re: Looking for good DIY controller kit supplier
« Reply #156 on: December 17, 2020, 05:53:03 AM »
it is only switching Mach3 Outputs, witch are assigned in Config -> Port's&Pin's -> Output Signals.
i would Switch them all off after testing.

Yes P Parameter is for Output Number
and Q Parameter for state of the Output.

if also will only Switch Outputs witch are enabled in Config -> Port's&Pin's -> Output Signals.
anything is possible, just try to do it.
if you find some mistakes, in my bad bavarian english,they are yours.
Re: Looking for good DIY controller kit supplier
« Reply #157 on: December 18, 2020, 05:58:14 AM »
That's good, so in my case it's 'Output Signals' - Output#1 - enabled is ticked - Port#1 - Pin number 17 - Active low is crossed; one output only ....Output#1.

Question - do the pins 1 to 17 that are printed on the BOB correlate with the parallel port pins? Also, the BOB Pin17 seems not to be connected to anything, so what is Output#1 used for?

I received the cable this pm, made the harness and attached it to the motors. I'll connect it to the TB6600s tomorrow, turn it on and hope smoke is a past experience.

Offline TPS

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Re: Looking for good DIY controller kit supplier
« Reply #158 on: December 18, 2020, 06:43:30 AM »
according to the documentation ZASto has posted in  Reply #77
pin17 can be used for b-axis direction (witch you don't Need) or for
the relay, witch you may Need in future for spindle on.
anything is possible, just try to do it.
if you find some mistakes, in my bad bavarian english,they are yours.

Offline MN300

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Re: Looking for good DIY controller kit supplier
« Reply #159 on: December 18, 2020, 08:33:34 AM »
The pin numbers in the documentation do correspond to the physical pin numbers of  the parallel port.

The 5 input pins 10, 11, 12, 13 and 15 have the identical circuitry. The assignment of functions, X LS, Y LS, etc is the conventional standard used in the CNC world. You could chose to rearrange them as long as to change the MACH3 screens to match.

The 12 output pins are a bit different. While they all are buffered and appear on the terminal strip, several have additional circuitry.
Pin 1 also connects to the PWM to analog converter used for spindle speed.
Pin 14 has 3 buffers so it can drive multiple stepper enables.
Pin 17 can be jumpered to the relay usually used for spindle enable.

Pins 1, 8, 9, 16 and 17 are not used by your application and could be used for additional functions. For example, Pin 17 and its relay could be used to operate the chip vacuum as the coolant function of MACH3.

Start up and test the steppers one by one. The Y axis appears to be the heaviest and will determine the max speed of the system.
https://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=43939.0;attach=54790;image

Remember the 1.5A current setting is a guess, check for overheating as you tune the motor. Changing from 1.5A to 1.0A will halve the heat. (Watts = current squared times resistance)Since you will be operating in a hot environment you could begin at 1.0A and see if it gives satisfactory performance.