I was looking to make a solution for part location on my mill, and have in the past read that probing systems do not work with Mach3 , or at least it is all a bit tricky.
Came across this http://www.centroidcnc.com/cnc_touch_probe.html    and they claim it works with Mach. So, does anyone have any experience using this on a mill running Mach3?   if so, thoughts, pros/cons?

Hi,
I asked the same question about a similar type of probe in a thread a while back and Rich and Roger came back with some interesting comments.
The upshot is that I didn't bother buying one. The thread is:

http://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php/topic,35518.0.html

Craig

I have a day job as well, so making one would interfere (not going to get it right first time and some parts need to buy etc) so I am happy to buy one. The one you list is cheap enough, if it worked well.
And if I am not mistaken, its in the same country as me, for once.
The reason I posted the one I did, is because it said it works with Mach3 and if it was plug and play, my life would be made just that bit easier , and that is worth the money

Hi Aegir,
I'm Kiwi and so Homan Designs is near enuf to local for me too. I have some of Peters other products and I like them and he seems like a decent
bloke, and much as it pains me to admit it, for an Aussie!

All that you really need for a probe is a closing contact, it doesn't need to be very sophisticated. I suspect if you just have a couple of wires and alligator
clips and experiment a wee bit with getting reliable contact closure as evidenced by the Probe LED in Machs Diagnostics screen you find that you can
do equally well without the fancy probe. That was the upshot of what Rich and Roger were saying and they're right.

Craig

I get that, but not sure its what I need.
What I am trying to do , is machine a watch case. You will have to use imagination here for a bit.

I have been successful , and it is held from raw stock in the vice. I face the stock and then machine out the pocket where the crystal sits above the dial.

This I flip over onto an expansion clamp and mill out the center steps. Its all still round stock, so orientation does not matter at this point.
I machine the o-ring groves then the underneath profile of the lugs. (roughing then finish) and the sides are partly roughed out due to the crown (winding part) protectors, and partly finished .
The sides are no use to me to flip over and use as a reference, as they have angles to them.

I mill out between the lugs where the strap will attach,  but there is a 0.3mm radius in there, which I am rethinking on the approach to that. If I finish that off while its in this position, I can use some type of block that is the machined to fit and then attached to the base plate , but it has to be perfect. Then the part needs to go to another clamp on the 4th axis and once again, needs to be perfect.
So this is why I wanted a probe that can not only find the location, but angles too and if I am off a touch , it should not matter, as the probe will pick it up.

Or so that is the way I understand it

Hi,
I follow most of your description. If the vice is insulated from the bed/frame of the machine then the workpiece could be energised with a current
limited (5mA say) voltage that gets shorted down to earth when the tool tip touches it. That is sufficient for a probe.

If you use a probe such as in the link posted then you'll have to  remove from the spindle, fit the tool, touch off and start the cycle. Using the tool
requires the workpeice be energised and the tool tip earthed as it usually is via the collets and spindle. No shagging around mounting then demounting
probes and tools.

Craig

OK, so ignore the case back and movement on the picture.
This is the back facing up, where my first operations are being done. So I end up with that 24mm space between the lugs which is square .
The outside profile is not, as there are angles there.

When I flip it over to this point , and ignore the dial and bezel (dont have a center case pic)


Then I was planning for the probe to just pick up on the outside lug edge  (lug is the extended part that form where the strap will fit, for those reading who may not know) 
This way, I dont need to worry about the slight angle, as the probe will work that out and I only have to flip it over and probe a few locations.
If I went cheap as can be, that will not take into account those angles.
Maybe I could pick up the inside lug part that way, but I still need to go over on its side to the 4th axis and pick it up there.
Would like to do this the easiest way I can and the fastest.

Hi,
very impressive work!

If you can isolate your vice/jig from the frame of the machine what you describe should be pretty easy.

I use Mach4 and have done so for nearly a year. A new probing module was released about 3-4 months ago and its way clever, I recommend you download it
and try it as a demo, it will give you some idea about the flexibility of probing.

Craig

That is not my work, they are done in Germany for me.
It has come to a point though, that either I do it, or the business will not work due to the very high costs.
I will still buy Swiss movements and hands, but will  make the dials myself , the bezel, case and case back are the main things I need to make to bring down costs.

I will look at Mach4, but I have to admit, I am scared to touch the current setup, if its not broke, dont mess with it kind of thing.
I am happy to pay the money IF it will do what I want and no playing around, thats why I was keen on that Probe in the OP.
A Renishaw probe is not working with Mach3 and I simply cant afford it. I will take a look at Mach4 however

Hi Aegir,
a picture is worth a thousand words....

Craig