for example this kind of toll http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/312087-936-Digital-Electronic-Soldering-Rework-Station-60W-Temperature-Control-/291045808706?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item43c3ae9a42&autorefresh=true sound easy to keep control the quality if the temperature is accurate

Now Tweakie, the Hybrid is just way too slick. You guys are gonna keep messing around a rip a hole in space or something. I'm pretty sure of that. 

Although the depth is obvious in the picture I bet it doesn't do it justice does it?

Brett

Hi Zsolt,

The temperature is set by 'trial and error', depending on the wood stock, and this in turn is then balanced out with the average feed-rate. It's all very experimental but those that have persevered seem to be finding the right combinations. There are more details of the 'home constructed' current regulator etc. here http://hobbycncart.com/forum/46-234-1 (you may need to use Google Translate).

Tweakie.

Hi Brett,

The idea of routing a 3D relief then lasering the detail and shading over the top was suggested over 12 months ago but, so far, I have not been able to get it just right.
John’s (PicEngraver) excellent software http://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php/topic,26003.0.html is well capable of doing the job if only I was more capable at using it. 

Tweakie.

Just my little variation on the theme. 
Low voltage, high current and stainless steel.

Tweakie.

Tweakie, you sure do keep things interesting. Way to go Tweakie. Brilliant!

Brett

Very neat, Tweakie.  How about a little more info?  Voltage, current, tool setup, etc.? 

Thanks,
John Champlain

Thanks guys. At the moment the resultant work is a bit scruffy looking but it can only get better.  

John, I am still experimenting with this and will provide more detailed info once I get a little further down the road.
The voltage I am using is adjustable between 1.5 and 2.5 volts and as we all know, at low voltage and high current the enemy is electrical resistance – even a fraction of 1 ohm can create substantial heating as well a voltage drop at the work surface – once I have this sorted I expect / hope to get some improved results. I am showing a reasonably steady 0.2 Amps current draw on the 240 Volt input to the transformer but output current has not been measured. Still not sure about electrodes, I am using copper at the moment but plan to try tungsten as well.

Tweakie.  

Thanks Tweakie.
Waiting to see photos done with your process.  And in stainless - how unique is that?
John

Hi Brett,

The idea of routing a 3D relief then lasering the detail and shading over the top was suggested over 12 months ago but, so far, I have not been able to get it just right.
John’s (PicEngraver) excellent software http://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php/topic,26003.0.html is well capable of doing the job if only I was more capable at using it. 

Tweakie.

Brett,

not only was it suggested, but done by me 12 months ago using Picengrave Pro 4, but the depth of the relief was limited by my LD's focal point.

http://hobbycncart.com/forum/63-151-15

My limitations on the routing depth of the relief engraving have always been the image to g-code program I use by it not being able to generate a Z axis movement within the same g-code file as the analog modulated laser's power (A axis). If it could, the laser diodes focal point would follow the spindle engravings contours up and down throughout a deeper depth of cut to be able to shade the relief properly.


Jeff