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Author Topic: I have not been able to find information on this automatic zero/ height method  (Read 9097 times)

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Offline Chaoticone

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This may help for your button.

CurrentFeed = GetOemDRO(818) 'Get the current feedrate.
PlateThickness =0.059
ProbeFeed = 5


Code "G90 F" &ProbeFeed

If GetOemLed (825)=0 Then
Code "G4 P2" 'Time to get to the z-plate
Code "G31Z-5 F" &ProbeFeed
While IsMoving()
Wend
Code "G4 P0.25"
ZProbePos = GetVar(2002)
Code "G0 Z" &ZProbePos
While IsMoving ()
Wend
Call SetDro (2, PlateThickness)
Code "G4 P0.5" 'Pause for Dro to update.
Code "G0 Z0.25" 'Change the Z retract height here
Code "(Z axis is now zeroed)"
Code "F" &CurrentFeed
Else
Code "(Z-Plate is grounded, check connection and try again)"
Exit Sub
End If

Brett
;D If you could see the things I have in my head, you would be laughing too. ;D

My guard dog is not what you need to worry about!

Offline Chaoticone

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This may help a little on figureing out your I/O pins. The link in the last post by Monte will most likely be best though.

Brett


BTW, Cool jet
« Last Edit: April 15, 2008, 10:47:51 PM by Chaoticone »
;D If you could see the things I have in my head, you would be laughing too. ;D

My guard dog is not what you need to worry about!
Xylotex it is, thanks Monte.
Sorry for the sidetrack Sean.
The heatsinks are what threw me, they are the same as autohec's.
RC
Something to remember, the Xylotex board is a stepper driver only.  The pins on the screw block go straight through to the corresponding pin on the parallel port through the ribbon cable you already have hooked up.  The Xylotex board doesn't do anything with those pins other than act as a connector for the pins from the parallel port it doesn't use, step, dir, etc.

Monte

Offline jimpinder

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Pardon me asking - but are you trying to build a retractable undercarriage for the jet - using stepper motors driven by the board you had photographed.

I only ask, because I cannot see how Mach3 can help??? I can understand the stepper driver board - it is simple to connect and reliable, but unless you have an on board PC how can you control them.

Without being too silly - and you say electronics is not you, a Programmable chip would be the ideal controller for driving the Stepper board. It could put out the corect number of pulses to the board (up or down) - and mean that your radio control only had two signals to send - undercarriage up and undercarriage down.

Or am I (yet again) way off the mark. :-\
Not me driving the engine - I'm better looking.
Looks like your board is missing the screw terminals. You could probably use a slip on connector on one of the 10 posts instead.
Also, you could probably solder on a screw terminal block, the holes are there for it....I assume the traces run to the PP.
RC
Pardon me asking - but are you trying to build a retractable undercarriage for the jet - using stepper motors driven by the board you had photographed.

I only ask, because I cannot see how Mach3 can help??? I can understand the stepper driver board - it is simple to connect and reliable, but unless you have an on board PC how can you control them.

Without being too silly - and you say electronics is not you, a Programmable chip would be the ideal controller for driving the Stepper board. It could put out the corect number of pulses to the board (up or down) - and mean that your radio control only had two signals to send - undercarriage up and undercarriage down.

Or am I (yet again) way off the mark. :-\

I made the retracts and struts shown in the photo.   For those that have helped me, thanks so much, I am an over 6000 poster at Rcuniverse.com where I specialize in jet talk.  An example of my work:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7358034/anchors_7360470/mpage_1/key_seanreit/anchor/tm.htm#7360470

I've been CNC'ing for over a year now, with a CNC router and a Taig mill.  Along with a 9x 20 lathe.  A friend and mentor has a 4 axis tormach maybe three miles from my house, and an 80K lathe.   So it's not like I am without resources, however, when it comes to the making or extending capabilities, we have only purchased equipment, never built CNC equipment.  Exception a small 4 axis hobby cnc foam cutter a year ago. 

As I understand this latest schematic, I would solder the wire to pin 15 which is 4th over from the left?

Thanks for the compliments on the jet, I have the molds here to that one, and another model.  It takes about 300 hours to lay fiberglass up, build intrastructure, and get it ready for flight.   Specs are 96" long 76" wingspan, The spar system is T6 CNC'd rated for over 40 g's.  It has wheels and brakes.  Pneumatic operated.  Has 36lbs of thrust and weighs 29 lbs without fuel, and almost 40 with fuel.  Flies for 10 minutes on just over a gallon of JetA or Kerosene.

Thanks again for the help.
Pins 10 thru 13, and 15 are inputs, take your pick. I wouldn't solder to the pin on your board, I'd get a stacon connector and crimp or solder to a wire, then push it onto the pin. Or solder a screw terminal on the board in the corresponding position.
RC
Do you have a breakout board ? Or does the ribbon go directly to your PP ?
If you do have one, pick any input available. Are there any limit/home switches on your rig ? If you do, they will be using one or more of the inputs.
The breakout would be between your Xylotex and the PC.
RC
« Last Edit: April 16, 2008, 04:41:27 PM by Overloaded »
Pins 10 thru 13, and 15 are inputs, take your pick. I wouldn't solder to the pin on your board, I'd get a stacon connector and crimp or solder to a wire, then push it onto the pin. Or solder a screw terminal on the board in the corresponding position.
RC
Do you have a breakout board ? Or does the ribbon go directly to your PP ?
If you do have one, pick any input available. Are there any limit/home switches on your rig ? If you do, they will be using one or more of the inputs.
The breakout would be between your Xylotex and the PC.
RC

I do not believe I have a "break out board".   I would be more than willing to install one if you think it would help.  What's a stacon connector.  Is that a device I can solder into across all the pins that are on the board, or just one?  I have a bag full of the attached picture if that is what you mean.

As I am understanding it, all I need is a wire soldered between pin 15 and then take that wire to a piece of metal, and then the bit will automatically sense when it touches metal?  Seems like PFM to me, but I will give it a shot.  (more pics)
more pics