Machsupport Forum
Mach Discussion => General Mach Discussion => Topic started by: seanreit on April 14, 2008, 04:16:55 PM
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http://youtube.com/watch?v=ENoIdEcxeFc&feature=related
Can someone show me the thread that describes how to do this, or please explain it to me in terms a 10 year old can understand?
I would greatly appreciate it. I need to know what program to put into mach three to autoposition like it is doing and also need to understand the electrical circuit, along with where those wire's go on the parrallel chord to the computer for the power and feedback.
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http://youtube.com/watch?v=ENoIdEcxeFc&feature=related
Can someone show me the thread that describes how to do this, or please explain it to me in terms a 10 year old can understand?
I would greatly appreciate it. I need to know what program to put into mach three to autoposition like it is doing and also need to understand the electrical circuit, along with where those wire's go on the parrallel chord to the computer for the power and feedback.
There may be one on this forum, but I don't know. I do know of a description on how to do it on the Mach board on cnczone http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56079
Monte
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Here's another one on cnczone.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36099
Monte
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As far as I know the software for the "probe" is already in Mach 3.
Any "metal" object is placed on the table, and the tool moved to it. When the tool touches it, it stops. (The metal object must be electrically isolated from the table ) A wire is connected to the metal object and fed into LPT1 input pins and the Config/Inputs/Probe is configured as the input, "active low". If you notice a clip was put on the tool to help with earthing the "target" when touched, but apparently this is not always required.
There is a similar post submitted by Benny further down the main page "Check out this post"
This appears to be a very useful tool - can anyone tell us if this is in Mach3 - and what the syntax is ???
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There is a similar post submitted by Benny further down the main page "Check out this post"
This appears to be a very useful tool - can anyone tell us if this is in Mach3 - and what the syntax is ???
Both links I gave are for touching off with Mach. The first one is the same thread as Benny links to. Both are using a device with a wire connected to the parallel port. One uses a macro and a new button on the Mach screen, one uses a specific Mach screen, then adds to it using a small Visual Basic bit of code he wrote.
Monte
Monte
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Thank you so much for the help.
Can anyone identify this board to tell me where I wire this setup to?
I'm trying to build retracts for my Turbine Powered Jet, and want to shorten the time it takes to reset.
Thanks again,
Sean
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Picture of my jet.
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http://www.easy-cnc.com/web/download/Manual3and4Axis.pdf
Almost looks like one of autohec's earlier boards. The pinout may or may not be right.
Looks like you have no breakout board, may need to trace the ribbon to a useable input on the PP.
Good luck.
DAMN nice jet too,
RC
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I understand from that document about the pins that are "input" pins on page 11. However, I don't see anything like his picture on my board. Does that mean I can't do this? Or that I need to cut the ribbon on the DB 25 chord and splice in this magical wire?
Sorry I don't understand this. I can build jets that go 200 MPH from scratch, electronics though, not so much :(
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Thank you so much for the help.
Can anyone identify this board to tell me where I wire this setup to?
I'm trying to build retracts for my Turbine Powered Jet, and want to shorten the time it takes to reset.
Thanks again,
Sean
That's a Xylotex 4 axis stepper driver. http://www.xylotex.com , you can download a manual, it will give you the pinouts for the screw connector block, compare that with the instructions for Mach and you should be set. Find the correct input pin for Mach and the matching pin on the screw block on the Xylotex board. There's probably a pullup resistor in there too, don't miss that. I assume that the threads I linked have that information, I haven't had time to read them completely through. If you can't figure it out, post back.
Monte
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This may help for your button.
CurrentFeed = GetOemDRO(818) 'Get the current feedrate.
PlateThickness =0.059
ProbeFeed = 5
Code "G90 F" &ProbeFeed
If GetOemLed (825)=0 Then
Code "G4 P2" 'Time to get to the z-plate
Code "G31Z-5 F" &ProbeFeed
While IsMoving()
Wend
Code "G4 P0.25"
ZProbePos = GetVar(2002)
Code "G0 Z" &ZProbePos
While IsMoving ()
Wend
Call SetDro (2, PlateThickness)
Code "G4 P0.5" 'Pause for Dro to update.
Code "G0 Z0.25" 'Change the Z retract height here
Code "(Z axis is now zeroed)"
Code "F" &CurrentFeed
Else
Code "(Z-Plate is grounded, check connection and try again)"
Exit Sub
End If
Brett
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This may help a little on figureing out your I/O pins. The link in the last post by Monte will most likely be best though.
Brett
BTW, Cool jet
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Xylotex it is, thanks Monte.
Sorry for the sidetrack Sean.
The heatsinks are what threw me, they are the same as autohec's.
RC
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Something to remember, the Xylotex board is a stepper driver only. The pins on the screw block go straight through to the corresponding pin on the parallel port through the ribbon cable you already have hooked up. The Xylotex board doesn't do anything with those pins other than act as a connector for the pins from the parallel port it doesn't use, step, dir, etc.
Monte
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Pardon me asking - but are you trying to build a retractable undercarriage for the jet - using stepper motors driven by the board you had photographed.
I only ask, because I cannot see how Mach3 can help??? I can understand the stepper driver board - it is simple to connect and reliable, but unless you have an on board PC how can you control them.
Without being too silly - and you say electronics is not you, a Programmable chip would be the ideal controller for driving the Stepper board. It could put out the corect number of pulses to the board (up or down) - and mean that your radio control only had two signals to send - undercarriage up and undercarriage down.
Or am I (yet again) way off the mark. :-\
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Looks like your board is missing the screw terminals. You could probably use a slip on connector on one of the 10 posts instead.
Also, you could probably solder on a screw terminal block, the holes are there for it....I assume the traces run to the PP.
RC
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Pardon me asking - but are you trying to build a retractable undercarriage for the jet - using stepper motors driven by the board you had photographed.
I only ask, because I cannot see how Mach3 can help??? I can understand the stepper driver board - it is simple to connect and reliable, but unless you have an on board PC how can you control them.
Without being too silly - and you say electronics is not you, a Programmable chip would be the ideal controller for driving the Stepper board. It could put out the corect number of pulses to the board (up or down) - and mean that your radio control only had two signals to send - undercarriage up and undercarriage down.
Or am I (yet again) way off the mark. :-\
I made the retracts and struts shown in the photo. For those that have helped me, thanks so much, I am an over 6000 poster at Rcuniverse.com where I specialize in jet talk. An example of my work:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7358034/anchors_7360470/mpage_1/key_seanreit/anchor/tm.htm#7360470
I've been CNC'ing for over a year now, with a CNC router and a Taig mill. Along with a 9x 20 lathe. A friend and mentor has a 4 axis tormach maybe three miles from my house, and an 80K lathe. So it's not like I am without resources, however, when it comes to the making or extending capabilities, we have only purchased equipment, never built CNC equipment. Exception a small 4 axis hobby cnc foam cutter a year ago.
As I understand this latest schematic, I would solder the wire to pin 15 which is 4th over from the left?
Thanks for the compliments on the jet, I have the molds here to that one, and another model. It takes about 300 hours to lay fiberglass up, build intrastructure, and get it ready for flight. Specs are 96" long 76" wingspan, The spar system is T6 CNC'd rated for over 40 g's. It has wheels and brakes. Pneumatic operated. Has 36lbs of thrust and weighs 29 lbs without fuel, and almost 40 with fuel. Flies for 10 minutes on just over a gallon of JetA or Kerosene.
Thanks again for the help.
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Pins 10 thru 13, and 15 are inputs, take your pick. I wouldn't solder to the pin on your board, I'd get a stacon connector and crimp or solder to a wire, then push it onto the pin. Or solder a screw terminal on the board in the corresponding position.
RC
Do you have a breakout board ? Or does the ribbon go directly to your PP ?
If you do have one, pick any input available. Are there any limit/home switches on your rig ? If you do, they will be using one or more of the inputs.
The breakout would be between your Xylotex and the PC.
RC
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Pins 10 thru 13, and 15 are inputs, take your pick. I wouldn't solder to the pin on your board, I'd get a stacon connector and crimp or solder to a wire, then push it onto the pin. Or solder a screw terminal on the board in the corresponding position.
RC
Do you have a breakout board ? Or does the ribbon go directly to your PP ?
If you do have one, pick any input available. Are there any limit/home switches on your rig ? If you do, they will be using one or more of the inputs.
The breakout would be between your Xylotex and the PC.
RC
I do not believe I have a "break out board". I would be more than willing to install one if you think it would help. What's a stacon connector. Is that a device I can solder into across all the pins that are on the board, or just one? I have a bag full of the attached picture if that is what you mean.
As I am understanding it, all I need is a wire soldered between pin 15 and then take that wire to a piece of metal, and then the bit will automatically sense when it touches metal? Seems like PFM to me, but I will give it a shot. (more pics)
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more pics
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I'd use one of these guys, an insulated one. Adjust one side by pinching with pliers to fit snug and push it onto the pin you want. Crimp your wire from touch plate to the connector and you're ready to go. The pin is held HIGH, so when the plate is shorted to the tool, (ground), the active low input in Mach will see the signal. If you use it on metal, the back of the plate needs to be insulated.
You then have to set it up in Ports n Pins and put a button on screen with Bretts little macro ditty.
RC
I just noticed......Kramer ? And the Dallas Cheerleaders ? I'm a big fan of both. 8)