Yes, a relay that can actually interrupt the full motor current isn't cheap. A $43 relay and 24 volt power supply to operate it is bringing the total cost nearer the price of a proper reversing drive.

https://www.newark.com/search?st=PRD-11DH0-24

https://www.minarikdrives.com/mdpm03-d230-4q-pcm

Hi,
there is an arrangement where you can use MOSFET/anti-parallel diode SSRs.

I have left out the connections to the opto diodes, they are switched as pairs, K1 and K4 together OR K2 and K3 together.

Craig

Hi MN300,
the relay to which you linked to from the Newark site is the indentical one to which I linked to on the Element14 NZ site.

Newark and Element14 and Premier Farnell are ALL the same company.

Craig

Yes, that's a USA link for gorf23 who lives in Florida.

Hi,
we actually stocked Allen Bradley relays of the same type, there must be an effective industry standard which different
manufacturers use to provide competing products.

They are still 'American Made' when that used to mean top quality. I have replaced these relays after 30 years service
reversing wire drive motors in sub-arc welders (150VDC motors)....they are truly rugged and reliable. Not to say you
couldn't wreck them by trying to switch direction with the motor at full speed without allowing a de-acceleration pause.

Craig

I did get the SSR relays to work Forward and reverse...
Tested on an old motor haven't tried on the mill yet, its been to hot here in Florida to mess around in the garage been getting up to 105%
no air in garage, have to wait for a cooler day..

Thanks for all your help..

Craig

I did get a couple of the relays you suggested the 2 120v dtdp relays..

I hooked them up only to power 120v and powered them up I get a hum noise that I think is normal,
but when powered on, no click they are not going for NC to NO the red led lights in the relay but the blue doesn't, I also don't see the contacts switching, they should switch as soon as powered up Right?

Any suggestion broth are doing the same thing... 

Gary

Hi,
post a picture please. Those relays came equipped with a variety of different coils.

Sounds to me lie you are using AC on a DC coil or vice versa. A close up of the spec is required.

Craig

I'm not sure what it was but got it working tested the AC volts at the relays and was only get 60, voltage was cut in half rewired it and it good now..

But of course ran into another issue, when I toggle these two relays for manual spindle control.. and I still have the pokeys board relays still plugged into the spindle relays and then turn on the manual relays with the pokeys powered off it seems to back feed voltage to the pokeys though the pokeys relays and power up the pokeys …

something else to work on don't want to blow the pokeys...

Haven't tried it yet with the ESS don't think I will take the chance will have to figure a way not feed power back to the controllers if the relays are still plugged into the boards..

Thanks gary

Hi,
what on earth are you doing? The whole point of using relays is galvanic isolation between the input (coil)
and the output contacts.

If the output is somehow back feeding, even powering up the PoKeys THEN STOP IMMEDIATELY.
Disconnect everything, you have gone wrong somewhere. What circuit diagram are you following?
If you are not 100% on electrics then you cannot 'wing it' or do it 'by eye'.

Still need the specification of the relays, the coil voltage particularly.

How have you got Mach setup?
1) One relay for ON/OFF and another relay for FWD/REV....OR
2) One relay for FWD, one relay for REV. If neither is operating then the spindle is OFF

Either MN300 or I will help with a circuit diagram.

Craig