The only way to check voltages that I know of is with a volt meter. While I won't say that your BOB is crap, The better ones give you a full 5v.


Mike

Kinda seems I did check voltage when on the S-PID because the 3.7 vdc was coming directly from the P port and 0 vcc (ground) was directly from the computer case.             Still seems strange to me though, I thought computer power supplies were pretty tightly regulated. My very limited knowledge would make me think I should have found either 5v or 3.3v Is it a "low" 5v or a "hi" 3.3x ? I thought most pp outputs basically have 2 voltages, so makes for an out with 2 states, on/off , hi/low. But this pwm output is a variable voltage signal if I'm understanding this right, Would that make a difference in it's max voltage out ?
    I guess my next question is, is there a way to convert / transform or amplify this 3.7v max to 5v max variable voltage ? Come on computer and electronics guys/gals, I need help Please !



                             Thanks, Rick

PWM is still just on and off but the time on vs the time off is what gives the differing voltages.
My suggestion would be to buy a high quality BOB.
Notice what my tag line says.

Somebody much smarter than me may know of a good way to up the voltage.



Mike

There are pp buffers out there.  I would probably follow mikes advice and get a good BOB though.

Brett

BINGO !!  Go It.
    Well I found the problem, Had nothing to do with Mach 3, the computer, the Super PID, or the BOB. Problem turned out to be the BOOB that hooked things up.
    I was reading through/searching the Super PID thread over on the cnc zone. Read about computers using pwm output and only outputting 3.3v being a problem with S-PID version 1.  So Roman came up with a converter to fix the problem that could be purchased from S-PID for 5 bucks.
    For S-PID version 2 (which is what I have), the converter circuit is built into the S-PID. Sounds like the problem I have has been found & fixed a long time ago, wonder why it isn't working for me? Then I read a post where a guy was using pwm & a switch to use the pot as an option, (which is what I'm attempting to do as well), and he posted a pic of his wiring. Something about it looked different than mine so I looked closer. Well when I checked my wiring I found I had wired for switching between pot and 0 -5v instead of wiring for switching between pot and pwm as I should have, DUH ! 
    Both set ups are shown on the same page of the Super PID "advanced connections" docs and I musta had a brain fart and followed the wrong one. I rewired the Super-PID correctly and I must say , it is SUPER. Mach 3 spindle pulleys at 0 min and 30,000 max and the commanded speed and actual speed are less than 50 rpm apart anywhere in the 5,000 to 30,000 range.  Why that's SUPER !
    This isn't my first mistake and surely not the last. Thought I needed to post this so folks would know Mach3 and the Super - PID work together GREAT,,,,,,,,if ya hook'em up right.

                     Rick   

  Glad you got it sorted Rick.  And don't feel bad, we all do things like that.  Thanks for posting as it may well help others.

Brett

Hi Rick,
Glad to see it fixed as well. It takes a real man to stand up and say I did it incorrectly on a public forum.
Thanks for the update.

Mikr

Well, stuff happens, ya know?
    I'm pretty sure it's Brett's fault for commenting on how well I'm doing with this electronics stuff,,,,,,,,,jinxed me I think. Na, just kidding. Like I said, not my first and surely not my last mistake. I figure people who don't make mistakes either aren't doing anything or they lie. I wanted anyone who might be thinking of going the Super PID route to know my difficulties were of my own making.
    I think it's pretty great to take a cheap run of the mill router and transform it into a computer controlled machine tool spindle for the price of the Super PID.

                                                           Rick