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#### mikeyz3385

• 79
« on: December 22, 2010, 04:29:03 PM »
Hello,
Recently i've been messing around making threads since i just hooked up a pulse card. I wanted to move on and try my luck at a tapered thread but am having some trouble. When in the simple threading wizard, what does the taper value represent? Is it measuring an angle, depth, length? Here is my dilema. I found a piece of scrap that had a taper on it and i wanted to follow that taper with a 16tpi thread. I did some math and came up with a number i thought was right for the taper but obviously it wasn't cause it dug into the part. Plan b. I went ahead and rewrote a program for that exact taper so i was able to see what it looked like on mach 3. Then i wrote the threading part and kept messing around with the taper number till it looked like it matched the taper on the turn. My problem is what is the math formula to find that taper number instead of me guessing.

The part measurements i have are  ... The taper starts from .310 and goes all the way up to .750 . The taper is 1.850 long and the wizard taper number i came up with that looked close was 21.50. Am i right? Try not to laugh as i am still only learning haha

#### RICH

• 7,419
« Reply #1 on: December 22, 2010, 05:15:27 PM »
No need to feel silly , it's a good question never asked to my knowledge.
G76 cycle provides for a taper in one of it's parameters, but, if you post the code as G32 from the wizard , the generated code shows the beginning and end X moves so you can find which units are correct when using the wizard.
I don't know if the units are a ratio of diameters ...taper per foot...degrees ( decimal ).......whatever ........so need to check.
The manuals don't define input value and not sure it follows what is in Smid's description.
A quick look at the turn options dosen't provide a default for a taper ( i mention this because it could be a disaster for obvious reasons ) so need to confirm.
That said, I will take a look, post here,  and add the info to the Threading on the Lathe write up.

RICH

BTW: M1076.MIS is the macro for threading.
« Last Edit: December 22, 2010, 05:24:43 PM by RICH »

#### mikeyz3385

• 79
« Reply #2 on: December 22, 2010, 06:26:15 PM »
Thank you for looking into this, its been bugging me all day. What exactly do you mean by posting it as g32 from the wizard?

#### Hood

• 25,838
• Carnoustie, Scotland
« Reply #3 on: December 22, 2010, 06:36:29 PM »
If you go to Operator menu then edit button scripts when in the wizard you will see the Post Code button flash, click on it and you will see a line that says Test = False, change the False to True and your code will post as the expanded G32 rather than the G76.
Hood

#### RICH

• 7,419
« Reply #4 on: December 22, 2010, 07:02:43 PM »
I am having no success on playing with the wizard to cut a tappered thread........it will cut a taper though!
There were some postings that said it would not do a tappered thread some time ago.
DAH.......nothing is ever simple and not in the hacking mood.

How's your recollection on this, Hood?

RICH

#### Hood

• 25,838
• Carnoustie, Scotland
« Reply #5 on: December 22, 2010, 07:19:10 PM »
Only done a few tapered threads and its not been recently so cant even remember if it was the wizard I used or not. Will have a mess with it tomorrow if I get time and post results.
Hood

• 4,908
« Reply #6 on: December 22, 2010, 07:44:49 PM »
If you go to Operator menu then edit button scripts when in the wizard you will see the Post Code button flash, click on it and you will see a line that says Test = False, change the False to True and your code will post as the expanded G32 rather than the G76.
Hood

There is a different looking macro under that button on mine.
Are we to change the t - f in the 1076 macro in the M3 folder instead of the one under the button ?
Or do I have the wrong macro there ?
Thanks

#### Hood

• 25,838
• Carnoustie, Scotland
« Reply #7 on: December 22, 2010, 07:57:18 PM »
No you are correct and I am getting old and forgetful My excuse other than that is I have had too many hours staring at a post processor trying to figure out what the hell I am doing

Hood

#### RICH

• 7,419
« Reply #8 on: December 23, 2010, 09:19:06 AM »
Thanks Russ, Graham, and Hood for some info on this,

The Simple Threading Wizard will  do tappered threads. There are are a few things that the user needs to be aware of when using it.
I'll post a little write up on it in the future.

Quote
what does the taper value represent?

Degrees ( in degrees and in decimal form / ie; 45.218 ).........the generated code will represent an angle = to 1/2 your inputed angle....I need to see what happens if using diameter or radius mode)
So for now be carefull....

Quote
piece of scrap that had a taper on it and i wanted to follow that taper

You will need to precisely locate the cutter point X & Z location based on the wizards generated code.
I would strongly suggest you try scribbing the cutting along the taper ( and very accurately measure the tapper you are going to follow), better yet, do a scribing test for a straight thread.
If test is good for a straight thread, move on, if not, don't waste your time trying to do a tappered or multi start thread as your lathes system is not capable.

BTW, if you really want to have fun playing around and testing out your lathe, cut a tapered thread using alternate flank cutting and a single sharp pointed tool. If that works do the same
for a four  start tapered thread. If that works you win the prize!

RICH

• 79