Mach Discussion > Mach3 under Vista

New setup for USB board by BSMCEO4U-PP Bitsensor

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scintilla:
Hello Fellow Frustrated CNCers  ::),
I have been trying to connect my Widows 7, 32 bit Toshiba laptop to my new 6040Z (allegedly-) USB controlled CNC machine.
Initially I was impressed with the overall build quality, pretty good wiring quality and beefy power supplies and stepper drivers.
My problem has been the complete failure of my computer to connect and control the drives via the USB cable. In fact there is zero activity between the items.
I can get the spindle to run under manual control from the front panel so it basically works. What we have is a failure to communicate.

Looking at the wiring, and referring to the scant information available on line, I have some doubts about the correctness of the connections to the PCB.
For instance, there is a link between the ACM terminal and the DCM teminal which does not appear on the diagrams. My problem is that I have no way of finding out the meaning of AVI, ACM and DCM and what their connections should be. I'm guessing the xCM might be Analog and Digital Common. Guessing here is not a good idea...
There are some other iffy-looking connections but I would be grovellingly grateful if someone could compare their working setup with the attached photograph and perhaps enlighten me on what's good and what's not. A return picture for comparison may be asking too much but it sure would help!

I also have failed to understand the correct Setup for Ports and Pins when using USB. Is it even necessary to make settings through an interface which has no Parallel Pins.
I thought USB was supposed to make life easy for those of us who are pretty slow...  ???

Sorry if this is too long but it's important to pose the question clearly. Here's hoping.

Cheers,
Scintilla.


joeaverage:
Hi,
I'm sorry to say that those Bitsensor boards are not particularly good and you will get no manufacturer support.
They are cheap....but that's about all to recommend about them.

Ask yourself.....' If I had to throw away the Bitsensor controller and bought a new US or European made unit ($150-$250)
would this machine still be good value...ruggedly built, good wiring and supplies and steppers?'

I would recommend an ESS (Ethernet SmoothStepper, $190, and two C10 BoB's at $23 each) or a UC300 (approx $150
and two C10 BoB's at $23 each), the addition of a little circuitry for PWM and relay drives and your machine would
come to life in a big way!

Craig

scintilla:
Hello Craig and Everyone,
Yep, it looks as if Bitsensor has evaporated, taking itself into digital limbo. I think I will take your advice and lift the standard of my machine by using one of your suggestions.
It's a shame when we buy items without having any way of checking the quality of the internal components.

Generally I have had good experiences with most of the Chinese items I have bought and I don't harbour any resentment for the supplier. They are obviously out to make moolah and to reduce their costs to stay competitive. This is unlikely to inhibit their use of crappy components somewhere in the unit. Ultimately someone has to pay for this. Caveat Emptor!

Throwing away the Bitsensor is no problem and I will probably enjoy upgrading the innards to fire up my machine properly.
First I will have to learn about the new components and how they will be integrated into the box.
It's my good fortune that I don't have any deadlines and plenty of other things to explore while I put things in order.

Many thanks for your kind advice. Much appreciated.
Cheers,
Scintilla.

joeaverage:
Hi,


--- Quote ---Generally I have had good experiences with most of the Chinese items I have bought and I don't harbour any resentment for the supplier
--- End quote ---

Overall that is my experience also. There are certain product categories where that is not the case, cheap electronic devices
in particular.

I'm glad that you are prepared to consider the idea I presented, its not the first time I have recommended such a course
and some people have lambasted/criticized/hated me for it. I certainly understand how someone would be offended
by me pouring cold water on their new device. I take no satisfaction from doing so, but those people who have gone
on and bought a quality controller have complemented me on the advice and gone on to have an enjoyable and productive
CNC hobby whereas those who do not tend to fade away......perhaps with their CNC dream.

I suspect your machine is well made with very useful components and parts, a lot of Chinese made CNC gear is very
good value for money. Combine that with a quality and well supported controller like an ESS and you'll be golden.

Craig

reuelt:

--- Quote from: scintilla on April 29, 2019, 10:42:51 PM ---Hello Fellow Frustrated CNCers  ::),
I have been trying to connect my Widows 7, 32 bit Toshiba laptop to my new 6040Z (allegedly-) USB controlled CNC machine.
Initially I was impressed with the overall build quality, pretty good wiring quality and beefy power supplies and stepper drivers.
My problem has been the complete failure of my computer to connect and control the drives via the USB cable. In fact there is zero activity between the items.
I can get the spindle to run under manual control from the front panel so it basically works. What we have is a failure to communicate.

Looking at the wiring, and referring to the scant information available on line, I have some doubts about the correctness of the connections to the PCB.
For instance, there is a link between the ACM terminal and the DCM teminal which does not appear on the diagrams. My problem is that I have no way of finding out the meaning of AVI, ACM and DCM and what their connections should be. I'm guessing the xCM might be Analog and Digital Common. Guessing here is not a good idea...
There are some other iffy-looking connections but I would be grovellingly grateful if someone could compare their working setup with the attached photograph and perhaps enlighten me on what's good and what's not. A return picture for comparison may be asking too much but it sure would help!

I also have failed to understand the correct Setup for Ports and Pins when using USB. Is it even necessary to make settings through an interface which has no Parallel Pins.
I thought USB was supposed to make life easy for those of us who are pretty slow...  ???

Sorry if this is too long but it's important to pose the question clearly. Here's hoping.

Cheers,
Scintilla.




--- End quote ---

Same board
https://www.amazon.ca/Aluoflower-100Khz-Breakout-Interface-Controller/dp/B0759KP1CV

Try using B0759KP1CV as part number instead

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