Hi!

In previous topic I write about problems on x axis.
I checked all wiring and connections. All seems to be ok.
So I should replace the controller.
I asked for help to the seller, but he ignores my messages. That is shamelessness. I even haven't put this CNC to the work. Negative feedback is guaranteed.
My question is: how can I be sure to buy right controller for my cnc? I can't find the same controller.
I hope I attached pictures with my controller.

Thank you for your time
Janis

Hi,
that looks like Chinese made controller. China might as well be another planet as far as getting repair or service info,
it seems the Chinese manufacturers don't care what happens to you once they've got your money.

Those three big ICs are the stepper drivers ICs and are prone to failure. If one blows up you have to buy another board
if you can't unsolder the faulty IC and replace it.

Gecko, a US company, have a very good reputation for making robust stepper drivers. One of their most popular
products is the G540. It is a parallel port breakout board and 4 axis stepper drivers combined. The maximum voltage
of the stepper drivers is 50V, not spectacular but useful.

https://www.geckodrive.com/g540-4-axis-digital-stepper-drive.html

Gecko also make individual stepper drives with maximum voltages of 72V.  The G213 is an example. You would need
three units AND a breakout board so at $150 a unit quality doesn't come cheap. The good news is you will have them
for years and if you ever need help Gecko is only a phonecall or email away.

https://www.geckodrive.com/g213v-digital-stepper-drive.html

A somewhat cheaper alternative is Leadshine AM882. It has a very useful, in fact class leading, 80V input at up to 8.2A.
I have seen them on Ebay for as low as $66 each, but $75-$85 is more normal. Leadshine has a pretty good reputation
for quality. If you were to go this way you would want one unit for each axis AND a breakout board.

http://www.leadshine.com/productdetail.aspx?type=products&category=stepper-products&producttype=stepper-drives&series=AM&model=AM882

If you need a breakout board there are plenty of good ones. I like and use the MB-02-V6 from Homann Designs in Austrailia.
I live in New Zealand so is pretty close to local to me.

https://www.homanndesigns.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=54_22&products_id=59&zenid=m9hqu4ek9oinoasvdev8usfov5

One thing that you should look out for if buying a breakout board, make sure it has LEDs on all the outputs. You can see at a glance
what outputs are working. A Godsend when you are trying to set up.

Craig

Thank you Craig for your excellent info.
Will check all these controllers.
Hope will repair soon my CNC. Can't wait to make some nice projects.

Best Regards
Janis

I just noticed that on the axis controller one element has black cross.
See a picture above.
Is it marked because it's broken?

Is it marked because it's broken?

If that is the X axis, you may be right.

I would FIRST swap the X & Y wires at the controller to check & rule out whether it is the wiring connection or soldering at the plugs or the x-axis Stepper motor that is faulty or not.

X on the chip may just mean that chip is to be connected to the x-axis.

JP-3163B ver. 3.9
Pin 1: Spindle on/off Relay 1(active low)
Pin 2: X Axis Step (active low)
Pin 3: X Axis Dir (active low)
Pin 4: Y Axis Step (active low)
Pin 5: Y Axis Dir (active low)
Pin 6: Z Axis Step (active low)
Pin 7: Z Axis Dir (active low)
Pin 8: A Axis Step (active low)
Pin 9: A Axis Dir (active low)
Pin 10:Estop (active low)
Pin 11: X Axis Limit Switch (active high) = when NC switch(es) open
Pin 12: Y Axis Limit Switch (active high)
Pin 13: Z Axis Limit Switch (active high)
Pin 14: Buffer Chips “Enable” controlled by computer if Jumper 3 is set to 1-2 position
Pin 15: Probe (active low)
Pin 16: Is supposed to turn Relay 2 on/off but is currently not connected in board.
Pin 17: PWM 0-10V for VFD Spindle AN1 (if jumper 4 is in default 1-2 position) active low
Pin 18: Gnd
Pin 19: Gnd
Pin 20: Gnd
Pin 21: Gnd
Pin 22: Gnd
Pin 23: Gnd
Pin 24: Gnd
Pin 25: Gnd

Jumper 1: 1-2 Internal 5V (default) ; 2-3 External Power Supply
Jumper 2: 1-2 Enable (by computer on pin 14) ON; 2-3 Enable (pin 14) OFF (default)
Jumper 3: 1-2 Air Cooling always ON; 2-3 Relay 2 by Computer pin 16 but 16 is currently NC (Default)
Jumper 4: 1-2 Analog 0-10V Pin 17 ON (default); 2-3 Pin 17 changed to digital Hi-Lo
Jumper 5: 1-2 Manual (handset?) On (Default); 2-3 Manual Off.

Microstep Mode (on each Axis X, Y, Z but A is on separate JP-1635A driver board)
K1    K2 
OFF OFF 1   = NO MICROSTEP 
OFF OFF 2 microsteps per step of 1.8deg = 0.9 deg
ON  ON  8 microsteps per step of 1.8deg = 0.25deg (default)
OFF ON  16 microsteps per step of 1.8deg = 0.125deg

K3    K4
OFF OFF   0% decay
ON OFF    25% decay
OFF ON    50% decay (default)
ON ON     100% decay




Current Limiting Dip Switches (on each Axis X, Y, Z but A is on separate JP-1635A driver board)
SW1 SW2 SW3
On Off Off  0.5 A
Off On Off  1.0 A
Off Off On  1.5 A
On On Off  1.8 A
On Off On  2.0A
Off On On 2.5A
On On On 3.0A

Hi guys!
I bought a new controller.
I changed it and all works perfect. The noisy sound disappeared and now I can calibrate x axis.
Thank you for all your help.
Probably I will be here with some other questions.

Best Regards
Janis

PS
My Chinese seller answered me after couple days. He was in Chinese New Years vacation. He refunded me a new controllers price.

Thank you to Reuelt for all this explanation 

What is model of your new controller?
I wish to know which is good and which is bad for future ref.
Thanks

My X axis has gone the motor is ok so it seems to be the controller unit and yes it came from China, could anyone advise of a good controller and possibly an address.
Thank You