weird resistances to read, if thats what you meant.  Maybe thats a bad motor.

John

Could it be that the driver and motor are not compatible? The motor spec sheet recommends drivers BSD-01P, BSD-13G, BSD-02,and BSD-02LH. My driver is SK Japan SLA 7078MR 1303 P. Thanks,  Pico

I have an A motor problem. I wired the Z motor to the A terminal and got some humming, turned up the Vref and got movement. Thanks for the advice.     Pico

I'm back with several other problems, as usual. I have replaced the motor with a Lin Engineering 5718M-02E-03. It's wires are: A blue/white, C red/white, A(with a line over it) blue, C(with a line over it)red, B green/white, D black/white, B(with a line over it) green, D(with a line over it) black. I'm assuming that the letters with the lines over them are the small letters; is that correct? The Cs are obviously the common and am I correct in assuming the Ds are also common? But here is the big problem: I wired this A axis into the controller, jogged the other 3 axis, which worked fine , tried the A axis, the dro functioned but the motor didn't turn. But then I tried the other 3 axis again and they didn't work, either, yet the dros function. Not certain where to go from here. In a thread called " mystery motor loss", Hood suggests that working dros and non working motors may be the result of a parallel port out. How do I diagnose that? Thanks,   Pico

I have found a reference for writing the terminal of my Hobbycnc 4th axis to my stepper motor. It is: A blue/white, a red, common blue and red/white, common black/white and green, b green/white, B black. Any comments?   Thanks,      Pico

Frankly i never trust the motor color coding and always confirm it.
- You can measure for continuity between each wire associated with one of the motor coils. Lets call them 1,2,3.  
   So 1-2  and 2-3 should have equal resistance and 1-3 should be greater and equal to their sum.
   Actualy one should measure inductance if they have an appropriate meter to do so.
if you do not have a meter:
   You touch 1-2 and you will feel the resistance when trying to turn the motor shaft by hand. If you touch 1-3 the resistance to
   to turning will be greater. When doing this the other wires should not be touching. If you find continuity between coils the motor  
   is bad.
Above done with no power to the motors from the drive. Don't go measuring amperage, voltage from the drive to the motors as you can blow a drive.

Now make note of the color coding.

Do the same for the other side. The amperage is set based on how the motor is wired. Go to the Gecko site and read the info
about current setttings for different motor wiring configurations.

Suggest you just  set the amp for 0.5 amps. Didn't see the manual for your drive so read the manual on how to set the amp rating.
May want to set the microstepping to 10us.
 
RICH

RICH<      Thanks for the advice, I've checked the new motor, wired it to the Z axis, which I knew worked properly, to test it; it turned. Then wired it to the A axis and it turns, also. Problem solved, now onward to 3d printing.   Pico