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Author Topic: locked motor  (Read 11510 times)

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Offline Hood

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Re: locked motor
« Reply #10 on: February 02, 2010, 05:09:49 PM »
Not sure if you are meaning the + - you  have in the above pic or not. If it is I am meaning the power supply to your breakout board itself.
What I would do is if you have a voltmeter disconnect the cable from the breakout and test the Dir pin to a gnd pin on the cable and see if the voltage goes 5v to 0v and vice versa as you jog the axis.
Hood
Re: locked motor
« Reply #11 on: February 02, 2010, 05:35:42 PM »
I disconnected the lead from the breakout board to the driver board, check the pin voltages.  All of them including the other ports on the breakout board are reading 5 VDC. (as circled in the pic)
I am trying to see if there might be a jumper I might need to change.  Hard to tell with the NICE  ??? instructions I got from the seller.

Offline Hood

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Re: locked motor
« Reply #12 on: February 02, 2010, 05:41:10 PM »
I was meaning to check on the parallel  cable on Pin 2 to a Gnd pin (18 to 25) and see if the voltage changes as you change jog direction, that will let you know Mach is set correctly.
Hood
Re: locked motor
« Reply #13 on: February 02, 2010, 06:05:22 PM »
It is at a constant 4 - 5 VDC using the motor turning option under config tab on the main screen

Offline Hood

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Re: locked motor
« Reply #14 on: February 02, 2010, 06:11:08 PM »
Use the keyboard Jog keys, left and right arrows, if its still the same change the active state of the Dir pin in ports and pins and see if it goes Zero. If it doesn't then measure direct on the port as it could be your cable. If you still don't get any joy then it would seem you have the wrong port address in, check in device manager and see if the port address is correct.
Hood
Re: locked motor
« Reply #15 on: February 02, 2010, 06:37:01 PM »
I will give a shot later tonight.  Time to feed the critters (kids).
Re: locked motor
« Reply #16 on: February 03, 2010, 01:54:32 AM »
I got the motor to move in both directions using the jog keys. Thanks. I did what you suggested and made a change in Mach.
Now I don't know what setting I set the resolution and attenuation dip switches on the driver board.
Re: locked motor
« Reply #17 on: February 03, 2010, 01:56:08 AM »
Any suggestions of what type of switch I should use for my limit switches on the CNC itself?

Offline Hood

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Re: locked motor
« Reply #18 on: February 03, 2010, 07:07:52 AM »
It will depend on what resolution you want but I would probably go for 1/8 and set the steps per accordingly.

Attenuation  I imagine is to tune out the mid band resonance that steppers can be bothered with. If it is then suppose it will be trial and error.

I prefer quality switches such as Honeywell  14CE/914CE Series, they are expensive but  I have large machines so prefer to err on the side of safety. Having said that my Bridgeport has optical switches and they work well, I use Optek OPB917B and have them in a housing with a spring loaded plunger sticking out either side, the plunger is held central by the springs to block the switch when inactive.
If its a small machine you have then I would look at opticals or even just some of the micro switches, they are cheap enough.

Hood

Offline bowber

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Re: locked motor
« Reply #19 on: February 03, 2010, 09:38:28 AM »
I use micro switches from Maplins, they have been fine and are repeatable within a few thou and so far havn't been bothered by swarf and coolant splash.
I'm sure they'll fail some time but they are really cheap and easy to replace.
Wire them in series then you only use one pin and use them N/C so that if a wire is broken or pulled off then you know right away and not when it's too late.

Steve