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Messages - kcrouch

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171
I'm happy to report that the Galil 2040 (USB) is working fine with the new V4.1 or later plugin. I have tested it using both contour mode and LI mode and while both work, I find that the LI mode is smoother.  ;D
Kenny

172
PoKeys / Re: Boris, I need a hand from ya......
« on: April 04, 2009, 07:50:00 AM »
Scott,
It is highly unlikely that the USB driver will work with 64 bit Vista. I don't think Mach3 will either. You may end up needing VMware Workststion and setting up a virtual machine on your laptop which will run XP so that these programs can be run. I need that on my Vista64 laptop to run my cad programs. Adds about $200.00 plus XP to your costs though.
Kenny

173
Galil / Re: Galil Status
« on: March 30, 2009, 03:00:39 PM »
The latest plugin has a listbox where the desired controller is selected. Naturally the card must be present and talking with SmartTerm. If that works, then select the plugin, wait for it to time out as there is no card selected, choose the desired Galil controller, and proceed with the rest of the configuration. This is new stuff in the latest plugin only.

Kenny

174
Please check to see if you need a crossover cable for this connection. You won't if you are using a router switch, but you will if you are connecting direct.
Kenny

175
General Mach Discussion / Re: Mach3 using Galil servo card
« on: July 27, 2008, 09:34:30 PM »
Jeff is correct, It is also helpful to create a startup program using the label #AUTO as the first line. You can set various defaults and even run part of the program under another thread. Save using the "BP" command. That program will execute following the many resets caused by the plugin.
Kenny

176
Galil / Re: Mach3 + Galil
« on: May 15, 2008, 10:43:40 PM »
If You use Galil Smartterm and issue TP. what do You get as a return? Also have You got the correct number of sip resistor packs installed in the sockets on the board? if You get a position report for more than 2 axes, then You are probably fine. If You have some missing resistor packs, then You have a real problem. Please get back to me, and I'll try to help.
Kenny

177
I'm afraid so. Unless Ohm's law has changed today. I suspect a typo in the documentation.

The optoisolator LTV847 has a 1.4v forward voltage drop. In a 5 volt circuit the total lost voltage across the current limiting resistor is 3.6v. With a 330 ohm resistor already in series and using a 5 volt supply You get 3.6/330 or 11ma current. With a 12 volt supply You get 12-1.4 or 10.6v/11ma = 963 ohms. Since there is already a 330 ohm resistor present You have 963-330 = 633 ohms. I believe that the M is a typo and should be K Ohms. even then, the resistor will not allow for sufficient current transfer through the opto. You want to get at least the same 11ma that the board was designed for. That said a resistor of 633 ohms at 12v is correct. The LTV847 will easity accept 50 ma so a 560 ohm resistor at 12 volts will assure sufficient opto operation albeit at 13ma.

Regards,
Kenny

178
Scott,
After much trial and error investigation, it turns out that the correct driver boards have been residing in my garage all along. The Galil 1755 board will:

Work with Mach3,
Enable fitting and use of the dual encoder setup that You have,
Output PWM signals to Your amps.

I know this sounds stupid, but the answer was in front of me all along. I am now going to pickup a cheap computer ($30.00) and make up a cable that will allow connection of a single motor/encoder combination, and also the secondary Trak encoder. I will get it working and send it to You for testing. If You are happy, send it back to me and I will need to fabricate an interconnecting PCB to interface between the 64 pin cables that You have and the 100 pin cable from the Galil board. This will take some time, but by doing it this way, You can continue to use Your mill until everything is ready and then simply swap plugs over to implement the controller with Mach3. It seems that all signals that we will need go through P1, the 64 pin ribbon cable header on the MX connector board.

Please call me if You have any questions.

Kenny


 

179
The BOB has an led with a 330 ohm current llimiting resistor in series with it. By adding the additional 330 ohms pull-up to 5 volt the current is reduced by 50%, but should still be enough. It would also be ok to not use my pull-up to 5 volts, but instead use a single 490 ohm pull-up to the 12 volt supply. This would give full current to the led. Your voltage divider would also work, but it involves more parts. The problem is that the sensors are open collector NPN, while the board is looking for PNP style outputs. This is why You need to change the active state and use the switches in parallel, rather than in series. A proper solution would involve connecting the switches to and gates, but then you would need another circuit board with the gates on it. Wired as I propose, the BOB led would be on when the switches are clear and off when any of the switches are near metal. However the circuit won't be fail safe in the event of a broken switch wire.
Kenny

180
If You are using a board similar to CNC4PC's C11 try this. Connect a 330 ohm resistor from the 5v terminal to the input along with the proximity switch output (black wire). Then connect the proximity switch common (blue wire) to both 12 volt common (from Your sensor power supply) and 5volt common on the BOB. Do NOT connect to the 5 volt common that gets power from the computer as it will defeat isolation. Then connect the brown wire from the switch to the 12 volt sensor power supply.
What this does is use the pull-up resistor to turn the input on, and the open collector output  of the prox switch to pulll the resistor to ground to turn the input off. You may need to reverse the state of the inputs in Mach. (active low to active high) to get everything working correctly. All switches will need to be wired in parallel, connecting all three wires in order for this to work. This is not really the best way to make this connection, (as a broken prox. wire will not fail safe), but it involves the least wiring effort.
With this method, the input led should be normally on, and turn off whenever any of the prox switches are activated. If You have a different BOB, then this scheme may not apply. Go slowly, try connecting the resistor only first and see that the input turns on. Then connect a single switch and verify that the led goes out when the switch is actuated. If all is well so far then go ahead and connect the remaining switches.

Kenny

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