Messages

111

General Mach Discussion / Re: Mach3 R3.043.022 to R3.043.066 license stopped working.

« on: October 10, 2012, 10:28:24 AM »

It sucks all the way around, for the guy who got scammed, for the guys at Mach, and for the guys running legit business who lost a sale to the scammers.

Well said.

112

General Mach Discussion / Re: Another newb, another issue...

« on: October 10, 2012, 10:00:43 AM »

Thank you. I cut everything down so it is only about 2 inches long. No more flex. Just gotta be careful when ya cut the ink tube so as not to make a mess. Nice job on the logo. I thought the faded crosshatch was intentional, before I read the post.

113

General Mach Discussion / Re: Another newb, another issue...

« on: October 08, 2012, 01:04:44 AM »

Here is a couple examples of plotter pens if your interested.
http://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php/topic,16012.0.html
Rich made the super mega duty awesome one, and I made the dumbed down hillbilly McGyver version

114

General Mach Discussion / Re: Cutting Fluid for Aluminum

« on: September 27, 2012, 08:53:29 PM »

Differnt strokes fer differnt folks I guess. This is one of those "ask 10 people, get 10 different answers" kinda question. Personally i don't like WD. It really does not do a good job keeping the aluminum from building up on the tool.  Kero does a better job than WD. Gotta watch who ya tell that to, though. Thought one fella was gonna have a heart attack or call the fire chief the last time kero was mentioned. I hate koolmist on aluminum. Absolutely will not touch the stuff when cutting aluminum. I ALWAYS use oil based. Cimcool Cimperial 1060 is really good stuff. It can get a bit rank and nasty though if you don't manage it right. Been using Ruslick WS-5050 for a while now. Seems really nice, easy to use, and its not as nasty, and more forgiving than Cimcool. A gallon is around $30 I think.

115

General Mach Discussion / Re: Antibacklash Nut

« on: September 18, 2012, 11:24:15 PM »

http://www.motorera.com/dictionary/pics/r/race.jpg
Placing a shim between the outer races increases the distance between the inner races, and allows more slack to be taken up from tightening the nut.

116

General Mach Discussion / Re: Antibacklash Nut

« on: September 18, 2012, 04:52:59 PM »

I put the nut in the lathe and turned the shoulder on it longer, placed some shims between the bearings, and fixed the multiple problems with the cap on the front. I realize you do not have the options that I had, and you actually may not have all the problems that I had, so I certainly don't want to send you down the wrong path on anything.
The bearings will not go any further forward than the cap will allow. They may already be as forward as they will go. Mine had about .03" gap between the cap and the bearing, which allowed the whole assembly to float that much. Yours may be fine.
You only need to shim between the bearings (outer race) if tightening the nut will not take out all the slack between the bearings.

117

General Mach Discussion / Re: Antibacklash Nut

« on: September 18, 2012, 12:04:45 PM »

the ring sits too far in and therefore when I screw the nut it touches the rubber seal

Same problem I had. The ring should be long enough to extend past the seal. This could have been accomplished by the bearings bore depth being shorter, or just using a longer tube. Preferably a shorter bore depth to solve the next problem.

the back bearing is flush with the housing and the front bearing sits inside the housing by about 1/8"

That is fine. The cap on the front has an extruded circular portion on it, that is supposed to mate against the outer race of the front bearing. It must extrude at least the 1/8", preferably a tad bit more. My set did NOT extrude the 1/8", hence a shorter bore depth would have also solved this problem as well. If the outer races of the bearings are not sandwiched firmly within the bearing housing, then the whole concept is useless.

should I have a space between the 2 bearings inside the housing?

As I stated earlier, the outer races must be held firmly inside the housing. There should be no movement of the outer races. When you tighten up the nut, it compresses the inner races together, taking out any play between the bearings. With those cheap bearings, however, you may have to place an outer race shim between the two bearings, in order for all the slack to be taken up. Otherwise the inner races mate together, and there is STILL play within the bearings.
Like Rich stated, you only need to tighten the nut until the slack is gone in the bearings. You don't need to tighten it very much. The screw should turn VERY easily, without much resistance at all. Keep in mind, the bearings should be oriented in a back-to-back configuration.

118

General Mach Discussion / Re: Antibacklash Nut

« on: September 18, 2012, 12:18:58 AM »

Where do you get one? You can make one I suppose if it comes down to it. As long as it hits the inner race of the bearing, and your able to screw the nut against it, you should be O.K.  It does indeed extend out past the rubber seal slightly. Your local hardware store probably has something that will work, if your imaginative. You definitely must fix this. It is like having three wheels on your car. You'll get nowhere quick, and tear stuff up if you try to use it.

119

General Mach Discussion / Re: Antibacklash Nut

« on: September 17, 2012, 07:31:12 PM »

Hello Kolias,
Firstly, those bearing housings from China are, lets say....less than desirable. I gambled on a set myself, and lost. I had to do some modifications to them in order for them to even function halfway acceptable. Now on to your problem....
Your either missing a part, or you are just overlooking it. The nut should screw up against a short metal tube, that in turn presses against the inner race of the bearing. This tube should be located in the square part that has the rubber seal. The rubber seal should fit around the outside of the tube, and functions only to keep out contaminates. The rubber seals on my screws also got chewed up a bit. This was mainly due to the fact that the square jam nut was very poorly, and incorrectly fabricated. I had to fix those. You might have to shim between the outer races of the bearings also in order take out the play. I had to modify the bearing cap on the front too. They had the incorrect hole pattern, and the extrusion that goes against the outer race was not long enough to even touch the race. Maybe my bad set was the "one in a million", but I very highly doubt it.

120

General Mach Discussion / Re: New Build

« on: August 28, 2012, 12:53:49 AM »

My thoughts exactly. You sure have came a long way in the past few months. Most people throw in the towel before they accomplish what you have. Congratulations, and thank you for sharing with us.