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Messages - bowber

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101
General Mach Discussion / Re: Different speeds on lines and arcs
« on: October 01, 2009, 06:26:51 AM »
Doh, I should open my eyes ???
So much for scim reading.

Steve

102
General Mach Discussion / Re: Different speeds on lines and arcs
« on: October 01, 2009, 05:31:24 AM »
Are your curves G02/G03 moves or a series of lines (g01)?

Steve

103
General Mach Discussion / Re: Agghhhh, how is the safe Z meant to work
« on: September 29, 2009, 06:14:06 AM »

My mill has hoe switches

Sounds interesting, you a gangsta brotha ? ;D

Yo Man, oh sorry that should be Err No.
Mhh, bit rubbish at the Witty comeback aren't I :-)

104
General Mach Discussion / Re: Agghhhh, how is the safe Z meant to work
« on: September 28, 2009, 04:32:45 PM »
Yup, as I said operator error  ;D

My mill has hoe switches so I home that every time, the router though doesn't as I just home it until it hits the stops and back off with a tap on the keys, not recommended on an expensive heavy mill but the router is light weight.

Steve

105
General Mach Discussion / Re: Agghhhh, how is the safe Z meant to work
« on: September 28, 2009, 10:44:17 AM »
Oh yes I'm used to them, I'm a sign maker and quite often have to sign write a van with the customer hanging around for a few hours.

I've still not managed to get the router going yet, more customers!
Hopefully now.

Steve

106
General Mach Discussion / Re: Agghhhh, how is the safe Z meant to work
« on: September 28, 2009, 09:23:14 AM »
Hi Hood

No the machine hadn't been homed, this one doesn't have switches as I wanted to keep it simple, but I'd sent it to work zero before shutting down on Friday and I checked it again before starting today.

Which has just made me think, your right. I'd checked the work coordinates were zero but the machine coordinates will have been at the same zero hence the move into the material.
Good thinking Hood, that's that one down to operator error  ;D

Now about to start again after being bothered by customers wanting to collect and PAY for jobs, don't they know their supposed to leave it at least 90 days before bothering with that sort of thing!

Spell checked this time :-)

Steve

107
General Mach Discussion / Agghhhh, how is the safe Z meant to work
« on: September 28, 2009, 07:21:32 AM »
Just restarted a job that i couldn't finish on Friday, no problems with accuracy as it's just some cut lettering for a sign but when I did run from here the cutter went down into the material and cut a line htrough the previous lettering!

I have the safe Z setup to -5 and the box checked for machine coardinates so surely it should have gone up to -5 on the machine coardinates?

I've now set it to +5 and checked work coardinates and this worked as expected (5mm above work zero)

I'm using mach 3.042.020 and this has been working fine so I didn't want to get the latest and end up with other problems but perhaps I should get the latest one?

Mind you it doesn't matter now as the computer locked up and lost position so I'm going to have to start from the begining anyway, glad the material is cheap!

Steve

108
Kind of what I do Ger but I back it off again a little, nice to know I'm not the only one.

I've still a few to do in the next few weeks so I'll get teh rush of work out of the way and then have a play.
Also got a few house signs and a gate to do for my mother in law, the gate is going to be done in sections so that's gona take some thinking about.

Steve

109
Thanks Hood, think I'll try teh on screen M1 for testing.

I haven't fitted home switches to this router, my mill has them, as I didn't want the complication and extra wiring. I'm not to worried about it hitting and end as the frame is much stronger than teh steppers driving it.
However I home by eye and have set up the table size slightly smaller than the travel so the soft limits operate before it ever gets neat ot hitting anything.

As I said I'll try both and see which works best, all I really needed was the M code for the pause, I'd forgotten about them and had been looking at all the G codes.

Thanks
Steve

110
The only reliable way i have of holding it down will be the three corners as they are rounded off, think of a triangular road sign (which it sort of is).
I could most likely just route in the shape in the bed and place it over and as long as the inner line is covered the cutter will remove some material, these aren't accurate or fitting into anything I'm just trying to improve things, and be cleaner) as I currently finish them by hand on a belt sander. and why have the router if not to do these sort of things.

Problem with routing the shape in the spoil board is that I have to zero to the same place every time I use the code(I could drill right through so it didn't get routed out later though), If i just have 2 points then I can zero in a convenient place and go to the first point line up a mark and then go to the second point and kind of swivel the blank round the first point.

I think I'll have a go with both ways and see which works best, having the shape routed into the spoil boards means only one setup so may be faster on the rest.

Hood, what sort of switch is needed? would a toggle switch do this and do you just put it between 2 pins, one being an earth or do I also need a small resistor?

Thanks
Steve

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