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If I understand the question I offer the following ..
I have two switches per axis, each wired to separate input pins, 6 in all. Three of them are also designated as home switches in addition to the limit function.
Any switch active stops the machine complete, so that behavior is normal.  In that sense the controller doesn't care which switch it was ... they all stop the machine.
Since the inputs are different though, a readout display on mach4 shows which switch was activated. To clear any limit event I hit the limit override button, jog the machine off the switch, and restore the override to normal.
There is no chance of the limit switch reactivating while the override is in effect, and indeed jogging in the wrong direction will go through the limit switch point.
I have the override button flashing while activated to help me remember to turn it off when the limit is cleared.
I hope that helps.

1600 steps is 40 mm, so steps per unit is 40

I recently asked for a function in MachX to set the type of motion for any axis, moving-tool or moving-work but got nothing. A "normal" configuration is assumed, but gives no allowance for different machines.
So.  Does X axis move the tool or move the work? Moving tool means left is Zero, --, and Home. Right is + and ++.  Moving work means right is Zero, --, and Home.  Left is + and ++.
Does Y axis move the tool or move the work? Moving tool means to the front is Zero, --, and Home.  Moving work means Front is Home, +, and ++.  To the back is - and --.
Z axis is usually moving tool, so Up means Home, + and ++, and Down means - and --.

In general, ++ means + end Limit switch, -- means - end Limit switch.
- and + are for coordinate system and DRO increment, which makes the tool-path display orientation correct.  X increment to the right, Y increment to the rear, and Z increment upward.

If I have stated this incorrectly, please correct it.

Feature Requests / Re: Mill setup config for Y axis movement type
« on: December 05, 2018, 06:59:39 PM »
I can't even contemplate having a few doses of vitamin R and being in the same room as that machine.
I have, in the past, actually made errors while under the influence. And I learned from that.
If I can prune a finger nail with the mill while cold sober, I'd take off a couple fingers after drinking anything.
I will share this in case it helps someone.  I just got a new milling vise and promptly peeled back an inch of skin on a finger by bumping into a raw edge of the thing.
Freshly milled edges are sharp ridiculously sharp.

Feature Requests / Re: Mill setup config for Y axis movement type
« on: December 05, 2018, 04:34:44 PM »
That sounds terrifically obvious, but I see that in reality that's not what I've been doing. Because the work moves for Y axis, I think in terms of moving the work when I write the G code. I will try to change my thinking along these lines and see if it makes it easier.
I have the axis directions reconciled with the display, and arcs and circles move in the correct direction, so it's just me that needs adjustment.

Feature Requests / Mill setup config for Y axis movement type
« on: November 06, 2018, 09:58:56 AM »
There is a fundamental difference between having a moving tool for Y axis travel, or moving the work piece past the tool.
Having a moving work piece changes the orientation of the tool path display so everything is backwards compared to the default configuration.
Can there be a selection for tool travel vs work piece travel? 
On my machine the Y axis is set up for Y+ moves the work to the front of the machine, Y- moves the work to the back.

Hello Craig00747
The input pins of an I/O board are either pulled up or pulled down internally to set their rest state. The pull up and pull down resistors are part of the I/O board. Connecting 5v to a pin internally through a resistor means you'll measure 5v at that pin to ground with no external circuitry connected. Connecting the pin internally to ground through a resistor pulls the pin low, 0v, so you measure 0v to ground when you check the pin. The rest state of the I/O pins determines how you configure the external switches or sensors, whether you supply 5v or connect the pin to ground with a limit switch, for example. Connecting a voltage source to a pin that is puled low will flow current through the pull down resistor, and you have to limit that current or the resistor gets hot and burns out. 5v is ok, but 24v needs an external dropping resistor. If all you have are 3.3k then put two in series and try it again. As long as you have more than 3.5v it should work. Never exceed 6.5v or you'll burn out the input chip.
It may help understand the I/O configuration if you have the circuit diagram for the board. Some supply it for you to use.
In my case the board mfr put input led's on the board connected to ground with a 39 ohm resistor. That's not a typical value for a 5v led, and I think they misread the value code on the resistor, 390, which equals 39 ohms, not 390 ohms. 391 equals 390 ohms. Connecting 5v made the led's as bright as highway flares and pulled something like 65ma, way too much. I unsoldered the input led's resistors and now they just have a 220 ohm pull down on the board. Sometimes you have to figure it out on your own.
To reiterate, I do not have the same board that you have and all this is general info that applies to all boards.  My sensors have an internal 10k resistor, so my 100 ohm resistors are really not needed.
In very general terms, the input device is feeding voltage to the input pin and then to the pull down resistor. If you know the value of the on-board pull down resistor you can calculate the current flow through it, 5.9v voltage drop. That same current is dropping 18.1 v through the sensor, so you can calculate the total resistance of the sensor plus external resistor. Change the 5.9 to 4.5 and recalculate to find the necessary external resistor. Or use a pot.

The point is to limit the voltage applied to the input pin below 5.5 vdc.
My proximity sensors have an internal 10K pull up so open circuit voltage from black to blue is equal to supply voltage. I used a 100 ohm resistor in series with the black to input pin.
When connected to an input pin (pulled low with a 390 ohm resistor on the C-25 BOB) the voltage on black drops to 3.8 v, and it goes to zero when the PS is triggered.
If you want to check your setup safely, put a 10k pot in series with the input pin (set to 10K) and measure the input pin voltage to ground. Typically above 3.5 v is a digital 1, and below 2.5 v is a digital 0. Turn the pot until you get a good voltage and measure what resistance it was.
I don't know what kind of proximity sensor you have so your setup may be different. I think the ESS manual shows how to check it. The input pin pull down on your bob may be different from the C25.
The picture shows my sensor interface board with 24v power (yellow-black) and installed resistors.

The problem I was having was the addresses of the output relays being off by one, so probably related to firmware, but you should check those functions. Energizing three turned on four, etc.
Also the outputs were inconsistent, such that turning off a relay turned it off the first time, then whichever relay you energize next will turn the previous one back on, but not the one requested. Turning off the requested relay turns off the previous one, then the next time it turns on the requested one (although off by one). It makes the outputs unusable, but the rest of the board was fine.
I have since moved on to an Ether-Mach CS which works swell.

General Mach Discussion / Re: Name of this controller? Manqls for it?
« on: June 06, 2018, 03:47:54 PM »
Those were the days. They had Martial Law in effect when I was there with a midnight curfew. Many fond memories.
We were homed at Coronado Island and made three West-Pac's in all, with a year in dry dock in Bremerton, and then I transferred to a Fast Frigate out of Rhode Island.
Made two very nice Med cruises  before I got out.

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