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Messages - Highspeed1964

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From the above document, it looks pretty standard.  Pins 2/3 are the X Axis (Pulse/DIR), 4/5 are the Y Axis, 6/7 are the Z Axis, 8/9 are the A (4th) Axis, and Pin 1 can be used for the Enable signal for all if desired.

For the limit switches, pin 11 is the Z Axis limit switch input, pin 12 is the X and pin 13 is the y.  E-stop is on pin 15 and pin 10 is available to use (possibly for the tool probe).  These are all referenced to the parallel port numbering.  The "Interface" numbering seems to be the board pin numbers for the actual hook-up internal to the control box.

For the limit switches (also doubles as the homing signal) four wires are needed.  The first is connected to a ground (GND) pin on the board and connects to all switch signal legs.  Each axis would then have two switches (or three if there is a seperate homing switch needed) which return a signal to the referenced pin.  My preference is to wire the switches for each axis NC in series for safety purposes as a broken wire would be detected this way.  You would then configure Mach3/4 for an active HIGH signal (uncheck the active low check-box) for proper operation.

Stephen "Highspeed" Kruse

General Mach Discussion / Re: change of axis direction
« on: August 20, 2016, 01:35:02 PM »
Ah, if it does not move in both directions then you probably have either an open on one of the dir leads or an incorrect polarity between the dir + and dir -.  Since it can't sense the high/low state, it will always move in one direction only.  Once you get the wiring sorted out, then you can adjust correct direction with the Active Low option.

Stephen "Highspeed" Kruse

I've found that when jogging using the keyboard, changing directions on any given axis will result in that axis stopping or hesitating.  I just simply stop any jogging before changing directions (i.e. lift off of all keys and then press the keys for the new direction.)  Of course, I don't do much manual jogging when actually cutting parts so this may be an issue if that's what you're trying to do.

Stephen "Highspeed" Kruse

General Mach Discussion / Re: ATTENTION: Chinese 6040Z Owners
« on: August 19, 2016, 01:52:16 PM »
Thank you Tweakie for your comments and your willingness to allow me to continue with this for the time being.  Yes, I could probably make the information available as it's mostly wiring and a couple "off-the-shelf" items.  The only thing really "proprietary" is the inclusion of custom made labels.  As indicated above, I'll have some extras from doing my own project and would hate to see them go to waste.  The primary goal of the mod kit would be to make the parts available from a single source and save some work (wiring harness) for anyone wanting to do this.

I am still undecided if I will actually move forward with this and it depends on interest levels.  So far, there doesn't appear to be much as there are several reads on this thread (over 60 at this point) but no responses.  We'll see how it goes moving forward as I've given it a 60-day time-frame for this poll.

Again, thanks for your input.

Stephen "Highspeed" Kruse

General Mach Discussion / Re: ATTENTION: Chinese 6040Z Owners
« on: August 18, 2016, 08:04:54 PM »
I've also added my "vote" since my machine is a 220V unit.  Even though I reside in the US, I was able to get the 220V option since my 2200W spindle VFD required it.  Otherwise, i was told the system would only be able to provide about 1800W on a 110V configuration.

Stephen "Highspeed" Kruse

General Mach Discussion / ATTENTION: Chinese 6040Z Owners
« on: August 18, 2016, 07:57:25 PM »
I am gathering some info for a project I am considering.  First, some background...

There were what I would call some deficiencies in the model I received.  However, the unit that I received was a good starting point to build from.  I made some enhancements which I will outline below, but one of the enhancements required additional labeling on the panel.  I considered doing a silk-screen to print the labeling directly on the panel, but decided that would be too cumbersome, time consuming and expensive for what I wanted to do.  So I went on-line and found a better answer - custom vinyl labels.  However, I had to order by the sheet and the labels were small enough that I went ahead and put a number of sets (ended up at 12 when all was said and done) on one sheet.  So this got me to thinking - I wondered if there would be enough interest in the community to make it worthwhile putting together a "MOD Kit" with which others could retrofit their machine.  This would, of course, be for a small cost.

The mods would include the following features:

1.  G-code control of the spindle through Mach3 (or Mach4).  Both start/stop and spindle RPM would be able to be controlled this way.
2.  You would still be able to control the spindle with the VFD panel by way of "Mode Selection" switches.  (This is where I really needed the labels I mentioned.)
3.  E-stop would trigger an e-stop alert to Mach3 (mine didn't do this as it was configured from the factory).
4.  E-stop would no longer rely on cutting the power to turn off the motors.  As wired, cutting the power would have a delay since the power supply would take a couple of seconds or so to "bleed off" the power.
5.  E-stop would still control the VFD/Spindle regardless of panel/external control modes.
6.  Spindle water pump would operate under control of the VFD state instead of running continuously when the switch is on.  The system operator could still shut the pump off by operating the panel switch.
7.  Included would be a coolant system for the cutting tool/part.  Not quite a Flood Coolant system, but more than a Mist coolant system.
8.  This coolant system would be controlled by a new rocker switch that would be added onto the front panel with the PUMP/VFD switches.

The coolant system would require a 12VAC step down transformer and that is why I would need to know what the primary voltage of the systems are.  I could make the source voltage selection as an option, but would still need to get a feel for how many of each type to plan for.

The mod kit would include a new wiring harness, switches, plug (for the new coolant system), transformer, PWM to 10V control converter, the coolant system, instructions and a complete label set for properly marking all new switch groupings and the power plug for the coolant system.

So if there would be any interest in this, please leave additional comments.  I'd also be interested in seeing any pics of the internal components on your system so that I could get a feel for how many variations there may be and if it would be feasible to make a kit with a pre-made wiring harness.  Also, let me know if you have anything other than the NowForever VFD in your system as this mod kit would rely on some additional connections to the VFD to properly operate as well as some configuration changes through the control panel of the VFD.

I am just gathering info at this point so there is nothing concrete about having these kits available.  But I definitely would like to know if there would be any interest.

Let me know your thoughts.

MODS:  If this is not appropriate or should be in a different section of the forum, please feel free to remove or relocate this thread.  I just felt this would be the best place to get the most attention.


Stephen "Highspeed" Kruse

P.S.  If there is enough interest, I may put up some additional polls regarding potential options or other opinions as development progresses.

General Mach Discussion / Re: Need help with new board
« on: August 13, 2016, 02:50:08 PM »
Was there any manual or disk included with that USB card?  If you have the manual in electronic form, could you post it here?  I'll take a look at it and see what we can figure out for you.

Stephen "Highspeed" Kruse

Not sure I will be of any help, but I just thought it interesting that I had looked at that board just the other day in my search for a MC that has built-in 0-10V output for spindle speed control.  It looks like that board is designed for Mach3 and probably includes a plug-in to run it.  However, I do not believe that Mach3 plug-ins work in Mach4 and there may not be any available for Mach4 at this time.  This is not a driver or .xml file.  It is a module that essentially becomes part of the Mach3 software and provides the communication path to the control box through the USB.  There are Mach4 specific products out there but it doesn't look like this is one of them, sorry to say.  Unfortunately there a fundamental differences between Mach3 and Mach4 due to what appears to be a complete redesign of the core architecture of the software so you definitely need to either revert to Mach3 to use this board or find a different board that is Mach4 compatible.

Stephen "Highspeed" Kruse

General Mach Discussion / Re: Spindle FWD/REV Question
« on: August 11, 2016, 11:05:18 PM »
Awesome info.  Thanks Gerry.  I had considered that possibility, but wasn't even sure if that type of bit existed.  (This is where my relative newb-ness shows through.)  So it sounds like I would be pretty safe designing it for single direction (CW/FWD) control and leave it at that.

Thanks for the quick reply.


General Mach Discussion / Spindle FWD/REV Question
« on: August 11, 2016, 07:21:15 PM »
Hi everyone,

Working on some mods to my control box on a 6040Z (Chinese router style mill) and have a question or two for ya.  My mods started as a simple task of making the VFD controllable through software instead of the front panel controls.  Well, this turned into a bigger project where I can now switch between panel control and Mach3 control through a couple of front panel switches, one for speed and one for start/stop/program control.  I've also added a coolant system and put the components in the control box so that it is an all-in-one control center.

The question is:  can anyone tell me why you would want to run the spindle in reverse (i.e. M4 vs. M3)?  The reason I ask is that would add some complexity to how I'm wiring it all up and since I've configured Mach3 to run the same relay for M3 AND M4 it will only run in FWD as it is right now.  But if there's a significant reason I would want to run it in REV, then I'd need to modify the design (mod the mod, lol) to work for both directions.  I have an available relay on the BOB and indeed have previously had it wired in and working for ture FWD/REV control.  However, I never saw a need to run reverse so I removed that from the equation and this also made my external/panel switching simpler.  So again, is there a real need to run a spindle in reverse?  To me that just seems unnecessary and possibly even dangerous.

Let me know your thoughts,

Stephen "Highspeed" Kruse

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