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Messages - jimpinder

551
General Mach Discussion / Re: Coordiante rotation
« on: June 06, 2008, 02:02:15 PM »
My apologies if that is correct - it was a feature I was unware of.

552
Check that the SmoothStepper - a new plug in for Mach 3 - which runs from a PC via your USB port - will not give you the additional speed you need.

The SmoothStepper has it's own bult in pulse generator, and does not rely on the P.C.

Generating the extra pulses may be a better idea than step reduction.

553
General Mach Discussion / Re: Shortest rotary
« on: June 06, 2008, 04:10:17 AM »
I tried this code - but I got a fault on line 6, (your first G2) " radius to end of arc differs from radius to start"

I altered the line to read G2 X0.5 Y4 R0.5 A0 and this ran, and as you say showed your second arc in the wrong direction
I altered the second line using R(radius) instead of I and J and it came up on the toolpath correctly.

I always use R instead of I an J, I find it much simpler. Minus R in the same lines would give you the dreaded rabbits ears.

Whether this now affects your A position, I wouldn't like to say

554
General Mach Discussion / Re: Coordiante rotation
« on: June 06, 2008, 03:44:44 AM »
The short answer is NO.

In actual fact Mach 3 does not do anything but drive the axis, which can then be at any angle to each other that you like. It does, however in the Maths, assume that axis are at 90 degrees to each other where computing a derived path - i.e. x and y moving together, or even x and z or y and z.

I am trying to envisgae what you mean - do you mean your cutter (z) does not move parrallel to your table in either direction, or what.
If the error was constant, you might be able to make some adjustment using a Vis Basic macro.

555
General Mach Discussion / Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
« on: June 06, 2008, 03:30:14 AM »
You have changed the breakout board - but I am sorry to say that (from thepicture you supplied) you got the cheaper non-isolated version. This is fine, if you have a good knowledge of electrics.

The isolated version of the card splits the card in two electrically, and provides two seperate power inputs - one which you can power from your computer, and one which you can power from your driver board supply.

The board you have bought does not do that. I must urge you again to provide a seperate supply for your breakout board. Not one derived from your driver cards, or one derived from the computer. It can be a plug in telephone charger (if it is the right voltage) or a games console power unit etc - BUT at least it will be electrically isolated.

You are still going for the big bang - good luck

My approach, if I was a little unsure what I was doing, would be to do each part seperately, and certainly connect each axis seperately. I did that when I was starting, and ran everything on my workbench, before trying to assemble a full box of electrics. I have only just now finished my electrics box, because I think of something else to add, and I have been messing around with computers and electronics and electrics for nearly 50 years.

You picture looks very good - but without a wiring diagram of where you have put all the wires, and where the power comes from, I cannot give any opinion.

556
General Mach Discussion / Re: home swithes problem
« on: June 05, 2008, 05:02:15 AM »
You can configure Mach 3 for anything.

Your machine is configured wrongly.

Open Config/Ports and Pins/Input Signals. If x home and y home are showing active all the time, then have a look at the active low column. If it is red, then tick it, it will turn green and the diagnostic light will go out. If it is green, tick it and it will go red.
The diagnostic lights only show when the switch is "active" - and on "Ports and Pins" you can change whether the switch is active with a +5v or a 0v signal.
The reason your Z led goes out is because either there is a no switch connected to your Z axis (or it is correctly configured).
The other should work after that.
You can change all your switches/inputs/outputs etc on the Ports and Pins page.

557
General Mach Discussion / Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
« on: June 05, 2008, 04:35:54 AM »
Your are going for the big bang solution (and getting it).

You system should be treated as at least two, if not three seperate pieces.

The first is your computer. The second is your breakout board and minor electronics (limit switches and other bits and bobs), and finally your power house - the motor drivers.

All three are seperate - electrically  - and must not be joined together (with one exception - a single common lead).

Your computer I will leave to you - you seem to know more about them than I do.

I am not a lover of the C10 breakout board - for some reason, all the normal LPT1 inputs and outputs have had their voltages reversed, and it seems to be trying to be all things to all men - but - this board does require a 5 volt power supply. I DO NOT RECOMMEND YOU USE A SUPPLY FROM YOUR COMPUTER. If you do, any wiring fault on the board can send power back to your computer and blow it. Use a seperate small 5 volt power suppy.
You must the read the C10 documentation very carefully to get the various jumpers in the correct positions. On LPT1 (as you probably know) you can only have pins 2 - 9 as outputs, 1,14,16 and 17 as outputs and pins 10,11,12,13 asnd 15 as inputs. Make sure the jumpers for these are correct.
The axis are normally run from pins 2,3 4,5 6,7 and 8.9 - the C10 has these arranged with a common wire between then- and the voltage on this common wire can be altered from 0v to +5v. This depends on your driver cards.
I would jumper the "enable"pin to the 5 volt supply - so that your axis are turned on. You can alter it later if you wish.

You can now connect your computer to your Bob (you do not need your machine connected)  and check that you are getting signals too and from. You can certainly see the "dir" pins change voltage. I tend to check mine with an M3 command (M5 to turn off) and alter the pin configuration to test all the output pins. The input pins you can allocate on the Ports and Pins page, and test by putting +5 or 0v in the appropriate pin and checking the diagnostics page.

You driver cards that run your motors are completely seperate. They require whatever voltage you are using, and can be wired seperately. You can turn the power to them "on" and they should "grab" the position and stay there. There is nothing else to say other than they handle quite a lot of power, comparatively speaking, and you should be careful there are no stray "hairs" from you connections making other unwanted connections.

The only connection between your Bob board and your drivers should be a step wire, a direction wire and a common wire to the input side of the driver card. There should be no high voltage connection between the two boards. The 5 volt supply for the BOB should not be derived from the power supply to the steppers.
I use Gecko drives, so they require step,dir and a 5 volt common - switch your Bob. If your drives require step,dir, and a 0v common switch your Bob.

Again, If you have derived your 5 volts from somewhere, then this common switching could easily short your supply. Use a seperate 5 volt power system for your Bob

I think reading between the lines, your problem was the power supply to the Bob - especially with C10 documentation saying that you can use computer power supply or USB. You have then also probably used this supply to switch enable switchs of the motor driver cards, as well as the axis enables on the Bob.

Keep each part seperate - and only join the minimum number of wires - e.g printer cable between computer and Bob, step,dir and common between Bob and driver - and you should prevent the pyrotechnics

 

558
General Mach Discussion / Re: Diameter input coords....
« on: June 04, 2008, 01:50:36 PM »
Mach 3 Lathe will operate in either diameter mode or radius mode.

It is really quite simple - but not, I think what you want.

If you are in radius mode, then measurements on the x axis are treated as a radius and no adjustment is made. If in diameter mode, all measuements are diameters - but the lathe merely divides by 2 before it applies the x axis movement, so that when the cut is made, the resultant diameter is correct.

You appear to be wanting something else - as far as I can see. You appear to want this grinder to go the full distance across the diameter of the face of the work (not half it) - what exactly does the grinder do ???

559
General Mach Discussion / Re: home swithes problem
« on: June 04, 2008, 01:40:53 PM »
You are not telling us anything to help you - any the MiniTech web-site does not include a wiring diagram for these machines.

When you say that everyting was pre wired and you plugged it into the controller - what controller???

Mach 3 runs on a PC - so you must have a PC. You have the milling machine. You must also have some electronics to power the motors and things on the milling machine.

The PC normally connects to your drive electronics via the 25 pin LPT1 port via a 25 way cable - does yours !!!

If it does, pins 2 to 9  generally control the axis drivers, pins 1,14,16 and 17 are outputs - used to control maybe the spindle and coolant.
Pins 10,11,12,13 and 15 are inputs and take the signals from your switches.

What switches are shown connected to these pins on the diagram ( or actually connected on the board).

Once we know this, we can advise you how to set the Ports and Pins settings on Mach 3.

560
General Mach Discussion / Re: Diameter input coords....
« on: June 03, 2008, 04:04:10 AM »
To get you x axis actually doing the required distance, without having to "double up" then alter the "steps per unit" on config/motor tuning.

If you double that up X will actually move what you say. It might help with the "corner" as well