Messages

261

General Mach Discussion / Re: hi !

« on: October 19, 2008, 01:15:17 AM »

If you are looking for a progressive way of upgrading, then a "newer" computer would be the thing. I would keep your old computer to run your present system for the time being.

Although Mach will run with Vista, I don't know how it performs, so look through the forum on Vista and see what you think. I use XP and it is fine.

A second hand computer running windows XP (with USB 2.0) would probably be as good, and cheaper. (Dont bother with the dual boot).  If I were setting up Mach now, I would use a Smooth Stepper. The advantage is that all the connections between the computer and the lathe/mill come through a USB connection. You can, therefore, change machines in an instant, and if you are looking to control three machines all from the same computer, this would be simpler. Mach can run seperate versions, each tailored to a particular machine, with seperate settings for each machine.

Start with your Myford, then your router, and finally, when these two are working, buy a Smooth Stepper for the old machine, and upgrade that.

Is this a hobby type shop, or professional - I had a Myford, but I have a Warco now - it is great with CNC.

262

General Mach Discussion / Re: Newby with a question about Spindle Step/Dir setup

« on: October 19, 2008, 12:55:05 AM »

A bit like Hood - no experience with these, but:

Ports and Pins/Spindle SetUp - check the delays for Spin Up and Spin down, and the Relay off setting. I assume you are using the Spindle drive step/direction, not an axis drive already.

As a matter of interest try this on an axis step/dir output, drive it as though you would an axis and see if you have the same effect - to see if this is an electronic problem or a mechanical one. If you use a fairly high steps per inch, and do a G0 A1000 or something similar and see if, at the end of the move it stops dead or decelerates down.

My spindle motor drive has a brake - which you can set or leave. On brake it stops very quickly (which I assume is for safety) - so is there something in the drive electronics, or even the motor, which stops it dead if the step pulses are missing. I must admit, although it is fitted, I prefer to let the spindle slow down itself - it is easier on the nerves.

263

General Mach Discussion / Re: To Ramp, Or Not To Ramp. That Is the Question.... And Others...

« on: October 17, 2008, 09:33:51 AM »

You'll be doing Crinkle Cut next !!

264

General Mach Discussion / Re: Abnormal Condition warning

« on: October 17, 2008, 09:30:24 AM »

You must decide whether you are running in Constant Velocity mode (CV) or in exact stop mode - and you can switch between the two in General Config.

Exact stop means what it says. At the end of each line of code, the axis all come to an exact stop. The next line is computed and then all axis start again.

If you require square corners then you must run in Exact Stop.

In Constant Velocity mode, the next line is already calculated, and as the axis are slowing down at the end of the line to come to a stop, the next line is introduced and the axis simultaneously accelerate into the next line.

You can see, therefore why square corners are not possible with Constant Velocity.

You must, therefore, set your computer to do whichever you wish before you start. Constant velocity is the default setting (I think)
 

265

General Mach Discussion / Re: Mach3 software Camtronics box gecko201's No voltage out to drive motors?

« on: October 17, 2008, 09:20:17 AM »

You must provide a path for the computer signals.

The LPT1 port provide 12 out, 5 input and the other 7 wires are signal return, which is at 0v (to the computer.

When you are connecting to the Geckos - the Geckos also require a +5volt supply to the input side, to power the opto electronics - and note I said on the input side - .

You therefore need a supply of 0-5volt.[color=Black] I would not recommend you using a voltage regulator off the 37,5 volts [/color] - because this is on the output side. You would be best to use a seperate mini supply which are readily and cheaply available for games consoles, phone chargers etc. Regulate that with your 5 volt regulator. Your input side is then completly seperate to your output.

The +5volt from your mini supply goes to the Gecko. The step and dir wires from your LPT1 socket go to the Gecko. The 0v lead from your mini supply goes to the signal return on the LPT1 socket (any one of the seven). This is necessary to give the Gecko a reference for the signal from the computer.
Your step and dir pins need to be active low since the are "pulling down" the 5 volt supply to the Gecko through the opto isolation diode.

It is not necessary to make any connection between the input side of you Gecko to the output (37v) side.

266

General Mach Discussion / Re: To Ramp, Or Not To Ramp. That Is the Question.... And Others...

« on: October 17, 2008, 08:53:20 AM »

I know **** all about this - but surely, if you are plunging into a piece, and making metal streamers, then if you look at the work side on, you must be describing a spiral with the cutting edge. I have the same problem with the lathe - the last lot whipped round my chuck and took out my limit switch wiring.

If you increase the speed of rotation, and decrease the feed slightly, then the cutting edge with not bear on enough metal to make a streamer, or it will be so thin as to break apart.

267

General Mach Discussion / Re: M-command speed and delays

« on: October 17, 2008, 08:38:11 AM »

Yes - I see - said the blind man.

If there is a problem with M3, why not, instead of using DoSpin, just turn on one of the outputs - using "Activate()" and "Deactivate()" -  it has the same effect and can be configured in exactly the same way - has this a delay as well???

The information, together with pin numbers, codes etc are all in the Wiki accessed via the "support" tab above.

I'm not saying this is the answer, since the delay may be the same, but if it is just to switch on an output, I can't see what delay would be involved.

268

General Mach Discussion / Re: M-command speed and delays

« on: October 17, 2008, 05:04:25 AM »

I don't mean this is a "clever" sort of way, but what difference does it make. Yes I suppose 150ms is a long time in computer terms, and 300ms certainly is, but if it is turning on a motor, which takes seconds to get to full speed, then the time delay dissapears, particularly when there will be some other electronics, e.g a digispeed and inverter in the line.

In answer to your question, and it might be the answer -

M3,M4 and M5 commands are, by their nature, not time dependent in the same way that say, pulses on an axis are, and therefore, might have to "step aside" in the scheme of things, so that more time important things get in the right place.

Have you tried to see what time delays are present on the other outputs - say the coolant. Is the delay a product of the fact that, although one socket, the top four output lines are, actually, a different address to the bottom eight.

I you are using a serial out, such as smooth stepper, then again there will be a preference order that each signal must take.

I have, yesterday, been doing a Macro to bore oout some gears. I did a 'code"M3"' but the macro just ignored it to all intents and purposes (becasue I had a previous "wait til key pressed" instruction before it. It seems that the code is written in any case, and when the key is pressed it just shoots through the instructions.

I ended up writing a plain old Gcode routine


 

269

General Mach Discussion / Re: Mach3 BreakoutBoard and all that Jazz

« on: October 16, 2008, 11:52:36 AM »

YES!!  I have been playing around with electronics for 55 years, and these cnc4pc boards are quite something - in fact all things to all men.

Basically you do not require all this, but since you have one, here we go.

The way I read the  script on the wiring is:

Yes - you need the connection to the computer. I don't know why you need the 5 volts, but it says you do. You might as well use the USB lead since it is provided.
You would also appear to need another 5 volt power suppy to the right hand side of the board - see 5 volts at 2 amps. I assume this is to power the board, and also provide voltage for the various switches that you may fit.
The 12 volt supply would appear to be for the spindle control system. Many of the  spindle control systems require a voltage between 0 - 10v to indicate the speed at which they are to run. My digispeed takes its power from the Omron inverter, so I don't need a seperate supply, but it seems that this board requires a seperate 12 volt supply, and also a common 0v connection from your spindle drive electronics.

When connecting seperate pieces of electronics together - and here you are trying to connect  a computer, to a breakout board, to a drive system and a spindle control, then all the parts need a common reference point (or voltage). This is usually 0volts.

However - where opto isolation is involved, there is no electrical connection. The power from your USB connection powers the input side of the opto electronics - which comes from your computer. The 5 volt supply powers the detector circuits of the opto isolation device, and powers the on board systems. The 12 volt input seems to power the conversion electronics from a 5 volt pwm signal (which Mach puts out) to a 0 - 10volt signal which the spindle control requires.

There are many cheap little power supplies available from Maplin (in UK) but I assume electronics shops elsewhere have similar items. You can use one of these with a 5 volt regulator chip which are available very cheaply. This would power the 5 volt.

If you spindle control system gives off the 12 volt supply, then use that to power the 12 volt side of the system, since it is going to control the spindle anyway. (You will still need the common connection as well)

Not much else to say really. The Xylotex box would have taken direct pin outs from the computer, without the Bob, providing you configured the plug correctly. I assume, therefore you attach a cable from the computer to the Bob and then from the Bob to the Xylotex. I assume you still have to configure Mach 3 to provide the output on the correct pins, provided the 25 pin connections are straight through.

270

General Mach Discussion / Re: Starting over, new to Mach - Supermax Retrofit

« on: October 15, 2008, 04:29:51 AM »

Where do we all start - that is a good question.

I have no idea about the kit you already have - this is for you to look at and decide - BUT

Mach 3 operates from a PC (which I assume you have). I do not know if you are trying to put this together on the cheap, or have a reasonable budget to play with (things being as they are).

The original idea for Mach was to output all the signals via the 25 pin LPT printer port.If your PC has one of these, then you can use it. You do not need a breakout board, but it is easier with one - just for the reason that someone else has done the hard work, and you have only to be able to fasten wires to it. I recommend a NON powered board. Mine was from Routout (which may be only available in UK, I don't know. Others may recommend any number of the various breakout boards that are available, particularly in the States. I don't particularly like them, because many have all manner of electronics added to them, and you need a manual just to understand the breakout board. These on board electronics has caused some problems, particulary missing steps. I prefer a "clean" board to which I can add what I want.

If you do not have a LPT1 port, then you can use the new Smooth Stepper as an output, and, indeed many would recommend it anyway. This fastens to your USB output from the computer (Plug and Play the in thing these days). This also has several advantages since it has all the outputs for the 6 axis, but has extra outputs for inputs and outputs to limit switches, alarms, push buttons etc (there are only 4 outputs and 5 inputs on a breakout board). It also generates on board, all the pulses for the motor axis (which are said to be cleaner and faster than the computer output) , which takes the pressure off your computer and allows it to concentrate on running your code.

Whichever route you choose, you will need drives to power your axis motors. I would recommend Gecko (only as a satisfied customer) and the range of drives is shown on their website (including ones to drive servo motors). They would appear to have the voltage and current capacity you require. I understand you can also get good advice from Gecko about what you will need to compliment their kit.


Gecko drives can be driven directly from the non-powered breakoutboard, or the smooth stepper. They have opto isolation on the inputs, therefore negating the need for such things on your breakout board.

That is enough to get you started. A breakout board, or smooth stepper, three Gecko drives. You will need some feedback arangements from your servos. I am not familiar with them so cannot comment.

This will get you going and everything else can follow in good time.