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Messages - jimpinder

1011
General Mach Discussion / Re: Trouble cutting accurate parts
« on: December 12, 2007, 03:18:33 AM »
I take it this is why you are doing the home switches !!!

When you say "it comes out a different size" what are we talking about here - thousanths of an inch, or a factor or two, or what.
When you say "if I cut the same part next day" - do you mean 24 hours later, or just cut two consecutive parts.

The number of steps per unit set for your motors do not make any difference - even if they were wrong, they would be wrong all the time and the parts would come out the same size (albeit the wrong size). When you say "they just fall apart" do you mean the figures in the motor tuning alter, or that the motors just seem to do their own thing.

You only need to set the steps per unit once - finish - not every time you start the machine.

I don't know whether you are using steppers,  or motors with some sort of positional feedback.

If they are steppers, then they are accurate and (I would have thought) that the only problem you have is a mechanical one, where somehow, something is slipping, either the motor IS missing steps (in which case things would be consistantly smaller) or a belt or gear is slipping.  If you motors have a positional feedback, then maybe this is faulty.

Just make sure your acceleration and speeds are not too high so that you do not loose steps on acceleration, or overun when stopping.

The only other thing is "backlash" - have you got this set up. If you haven't, then your results may be indeterminate, depending on which side of the backlash you happen to be when you start.

The main thing with a CNC machine is consistancy - yes, that is what you are after, but you must be consistant as well - in that on a run of parts, YOU must do exactly the same positioning moves, so the machine is ALWAYS in the same position when it starts.

The ideal, I suppose, is to run the machine to the homes, put the work in a jig (so it is in exactly the right position) and set off from there, which, I assume, is what you are thinking.

Stick with it !!!




1012
General Mach Discussion / Re: trouble w/limit switches
« on: December 12, 2007, 02:39:18 AM »
I take it you mean you have disabled Z++ and Z--. I had (or still have) the same problem but on my Z axis (but it is on the lathe so it is the equivelant of the Y axis).

I must admit my  homes worked alright after I disabled the limits. ( I only have two, both on seperate inputs - both wired directly for a 0v input)

I only use cheap micro switches and I am wondering if switch bounce is the problem in that switch acts as a lhome switch - it hits the switch, then reverses (fractionally) then switch bounce causes another signal which is interpreted as a limit switch. When does the program stop viewing the switch as a home, and revert to looking at it as a limit.

I know the "over-ride limits" allows you to jog both ways (even back into trouble) but would it be possible to re-write this bit of the program so that in normal operation you could always hit a limit then back off (ONLY). If it were then a home switch as well, the action is the same, it hits the switch thens backs off - but only til the switch opens/closes again.


1013
If you are using an LPT1 printer port , then the five input pins are already at +5 volts - they are held there by internal pull up resistors in the computer.

Your limit switches need to be wired in one of two ways. We will assume your limit switch is a micro switch which has normally open and normally closed contacts.

1. Your limit switch is wired with the input to the computer on the common terminal, and a 0v suppy on the NORMALLY OPEN terminal. A signal ground connection will do from the printer port. The machine comes down, hits the switch, the normally open contact closes, and puts 0v on the input to the computer. Your ports and pins should show ACTIVE LOW for this. (Green tick)

2. Your limit switch is wired with the input to the computer on the common terminal and  a 0v supply on the NORMALLY CLOSED terminal. This means that 0v is input to the computer normally. Your machine hits the switch, the terminal opens, and the internal pull up resistor takes the input to 5v. Your ports and pins need to be active high - in other words active low has a red cross on.

The first method is simple, but the second method is prefered, especially if you have homing switches on as well. In this method, if the wire connecting your switch with the computer becomes detached, then the internal pull up resistors take the terminal to 5v and the limit switch trips, and lets you know there is a fault before you find out by running past a limit and hitting something.

Hope this gets you going.

1014
General Mach Discussion / Re: Help. Slow speeds
« on: December 10, 2007, 01:22:11 PM »
I agree with Hood - when you say you "import" the G code, then if this is from a Cad/Cam program it should do most of this for you.

Having said that, G Code is (fairly) simple, in that most things are done logically. To move you cutter up and down (which I assume is your Z axis) the command is just the same as if you were moving your x or y axis - G0.

G0 X1 Y1 - move to the XY position specified.(in a straight line)
G0 Z0      - move the cutter up to xero ( normally cutters move up to zero).

If you have rested your cutter on the work and set that position to zero then you may have to go to G0 Z0.5 which will move the cutter 1/2 inch above the work. Then you can G0 X2 Y2 which will move the cutter to X2Y2, then G0 Z0 will move the cutter down again to the top of the work.

G1 does the same, but at cutting speed and takes account of an F command for the speed of cut.
For G0 and G1 - a single parameter after the command moves the single axis. two parameters moves two axis together. three parameters moves three axis together (ALL IN A STRAIGHT LINE)  so if you have things in the way you will have to move the axis individually to move round them.

G2 and G3 are circular cuts etc.

It is fairly simple to do - but a lot easier if you program does it for you.


1015
General Mach Discussion / Re: Odd Startup Behavior
« on: December 10, 2007, 12:55:09 PM »
I don't know about M2 and %, I use M30 which ends the program and rewinds the script.

I still cannot see that this can be anything but a driver card fault. Try using your A axis card to run your X axis and see if the fault repeats itself. If you want you can run the A axis from the old X axis driver and see if the fault shows up there ( I don't know what you use your A axis for). If you need the A axis, then buy a single card and try it.

The motor is running - and since it onlly runs if it receives pulses in the right order we must assume that this part of the driver is OK. Either the "dir" part of the card is faulty, or the connection to it is loose. There is no other explanation.

The only other reason is that your program is telling it to run that way - but from what you say, you have been running the program for 2 1/2 hours and all is well - then it decides to have a thrombosis.

I had Stepmaster cards first - and they seemed to run OK. I had a double card and a single. They went faulty after (I think) I connected the power supply wrongly. I use Routout cards now. (Because the Stepmaster cards were a long time in delivery here in the UK) I use three seperate cards so that if one goes faulty, I can replace it easily. I have protected the power inout side with a diode bridge.

The only other possibility is that if you have a breakout board, then that is faulty.

It is no good looking at the problem - you will have to do a bit of searching to find the answer.



1016
General Mach Discussion / Re: Fan Failure/High Temp ALARM Possible ?
« on: December 10, 2007, 12:16:55 PM »
I can see the need for a warning - but why go to the bother of wiring it into the computer. Overheating doesn't happen suddenly, it builds up over time, so I would have though a light or a bell on your housing would be sufficient.

If you already have an external E stop switch, then by all means, add a relay in the circuit to close this if you are over heating, but otherwise a warning of some sort, will enable you to hit the E stop on the computer to shut down. You will also know why it has shut down as well.

1017
General Mach Discussion / Re: gcode to mill half ball with cnc mill
« on: December 10, 2007, 12:04:45 PM »
If your rotary table has a motor on it, then mount the work on the rotary table and turn that after each pass.

Yes - it is possible to make a mill do it, but surely you are making an easy job more difficult by using the wrong machine.
Surely, unless you use a very small cutter, or a shaped one, the machining will show.

1018
General Mach Discussion / Re: Continuation after tool change
« on: December 10, 2007, 05:50:19 AM »
Unless I'm missing something, I don't know what the problem is.

You can write your own Macro for an M6 tool change. This moves your axis to whatever position you like for a convenient tool change. I've ticked the "Stop spindle, wait for Cycle Start" button on general config. I change the tool then click cycle start and the machine then moves to where ever you want it and carries on. You can use the standard M6 code.

This means I have to be disicplined and write the G Code to take account of the tool change, and it is obviously not as flexible as just jogging to a convenient spot and then hitting a return button and carrying on.

You could write the Macro to remember where the axis was, move away a reasonable distance, wait til you changed the tool and then move back to where it was. I'll write one and post it if you like.


1019
General Mach Discussion / Re: Multiple configurations for Mach 3
« on: December 08, 2007, 09:16:43 AM »
Further to that - becasue this is what I think you are asking - yes, I drive the same set of cards. Because Mach 3 can be configured, you do not need to alter any wiring, it can all be done with configurations.

If you have one set of drivers, driving several machines, you can configure Mach3 to drive each drive as you require, and be whichever drive you like. You can do a similar thing with motorforward, motor reverse control, and also the coolant.

1020
General Mach Discussion / Re: Multiple configurations for Mach 3
« on: December 08, 2007, 09:11:39 AM »
Yes I have one machine but it is a lathe/ mill and has different settings whether  I use it as a lathe or a mill.

I have Mach3 mill with one set of settings (bearing in mind the direction the axis must move) and Mach3 turn with another set of setting which reverse the movement of the X (now Z) cancel the drive for the milling head and reverse the spindle direction (because of the lathe gearing)

All I did was alter the config/ports and pins settings to drive everything the way I wanted it in both versions.