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Messages - robertspark

461
General Mach Discussion / Re: Control Panel Setup
« on: November 13, 2015, 04:58:41 PM »
....hmm....

Think you need to explain what you mean by "zeroing X,Y & Z".

I know this may seem obvious to you but are you asking the machine to zero the DRO's for each axis

Or are you asking the machine to home and zero each axis?

......................................

Attached is a "brain" that will do all the button presses you asked for.   You will need to copy and paste it to your brains folder, and you will need to enable the brain via the "brain control..." under "Operator" .... you also need to click "reload all brains to get them to start working or restart mach3  (every time you do a change to the pins and ports etc configuration ... with the smooth stepper you really should restart Mach 3 so that the FPGA on the smooth stepper is reloaded with the pins settings and code)....

I'd also suggest you viewing the brain to make sure it's what you are after...

The best way to edit a brain is to go to the operator tab.... click on "Brain Editor..." and when it asks for a name, click cancel, and then once the brain editor loads... click open and open and edit the brain you want to edit.

You will also need to define your OEM Trigger Inputs (on the Ports & Pins / Inputs Tab) as follows:
Cycle Start --- OEM Trig #1
Feedhold --- OEM Trig #2
Stop --- OEM Trig #3
Rewind --- OEM Trig #4
Reset --- OEM Trig #5

Encoder to move X,Y,Z  --- you will need to install an encoder on MPG#1 (and ref your pins on the ports & Pins / MPG tab).

Buttons to Select X (for encoder) --- OEM Trig #6
Buttons to Select Y (for encoder) --- OEM Trig #7
Buttons to Select Z (for encoder) --- OEM Trig #8

Buttons for Zeroing X --- OEM Trig #9
Buttons for Zeroing Y --- OEM Trig #10
Buttons for Zeroing Z --- OEM Trig #11

One little caveat.... you may need to invert the signals..... basically this is done in the brain by editing it.... where you see the box that says "No Operation signal pass", click on it twice and a box will open one of the options is "invert" this will flip the signal... sometimes bob's invert the signal.... and also it depends if you are using "make" (NO / normally open) or "break" (NC / Normally Closed) switches / buttons.

You may wish to consider something like these (they are all from china so available on various ebay around the world sites):
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-OFF-ON-Momentary-Push-Button-Horn-Switch-Car-Light-Dashboard-Boat-SPST-/361345440863?var=&hash=item5421dddc5f:m:mihtRXVIAMpThMNLLOw0XwQ
or dealextreme or aliepress etc etc.... just to give you some ideas of a functional button.

Rob

462
General Mach Discussion / Re: Speed of stepper motors
« on: November 13, 2015, 03:49:25 PM »
Yes.

You need to tune the motors


Those drives you have are not very good... What voltage power supply do you have?

Rob

463
Mach SDK plugin questions and answers. / Re: M11P1 code to gcode laser
« on: November 13, 2015, 03:45:11 PM »
No, sheetcam will do. M10/m11 codes without a plugin

I asked what the plugins do and I got this:

http://forum.sheetcam.com/viewtopic.php?t=6777

Rob

464
Your e-stop is not in the right place as shown it is more of a kill switch and your ESS and Mach will not be happy

Rob

465
What you have drawn is correct... Except don't remove that earth...

What I was talking about (the 0v) is what you have drawn as v--... Alot of people connect them together and then connect them to the chassis casing via the earth lug

I would suggest you go through your wiring and double check you have wired it as you have drawn it

Sorry need to go to day job to pay the bills

Rob

466
Earthing is very controversial (and emotive) .... Many countries have different ways of doing it and providing an earth (each think they are right)

... Long and the short ...

If you have an ac supply from the street (electric supply company transformer) ... It needs an earth ... As the transformer in the street will be earthed ... So that if you measure between any of the incoming wires none of them will exceed the supply voltage relative to earth...

Does everything need to be earthed... That depends on that voltage is going into the object relative to earth, and also how the supply is wired to detect current flow to earth (should a problem occur and something becomes a higher voltage relative to earth) .... In the UK the use of residual current disconnection devices has become very common in some scenarios so that current flow between the two current carrying wires is monitored and should a difference occur above a prescribed amount for a prescribed time the supply is disconnected.

It is one reason why I choose not to earth my machine but my control box is earthed.  (Another is I've had more 230v shocks in my life than I care to admit...and I'm still here... (Some were not my error I must point out the most interesting of which was when I was on a ladder and touched the top of a metal stud wall to steady myself with one hand and used the other to try to lift a metal ceiling tile... The funny thing was my brain had to figure out what the sensation was ... Only for me to confirm it by checking it for a second time ...

"Electrician never had an electric shock has never done any work"... It gives you a healthy respect for moving slower and thinking more when you are working on 415v or above when your room for error diminishes...)

If you are vetting an electrician ask to have a look in his toolbox ... If the tools are old but show little or occasional old flash marks ... He's relatively safe and experianced... If the tools are new ... He's inexperienced or covering something up ... And if they show recent flash / burn marks ... He's still learning...

Rob

467
If your machine is earthed .... By clamping pin 13 or 15 of your bob to your spindle you are essentially making the bob power supply +5v = +1v (same potential as the control box chassis) and the 0v is -4v ( below earth voltage)...

You have two isolation transformers there and you do not need to connect the secondary side 0v lines to earth, control box chassis earth or the machine earth (all earth's should be the same voltage)

It sounds like if you machine was earthed... When you claimed the pin 13/15 from the crocodile clip onto your spindle... You were also trying to apply +4v (because of the voltage divider I noted above) onto the same 0v line.

Rob

Rob

468
You have a major ground loop problem....

Remove your power supplies 0v outputs from the chassis earth for the control box

So just feed the ESS and bob with +5v and 0v

And just feed your stepper drives with +v and 0v

Then try your probe routine.

Rob

469
I suspect it's a ground loop problem.... You may need to try to put the ESS on its own 5v power supply so as to separate both sides of the breakout board optoisolators.

Have you got a separate 5v power supply you could try?

Rob

470
General Mach Discussion / Re: Control Panel Setup
« on: November 12, 2015, 02:33:26 PM »
The last one is that 3 buttons... Or one button?

All of the rest is easy enough