Hello Guest it is September 28, 2020, 08:49:24 AM

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - coms418

Pages: 1
1
Very nice work, send me a pic of your machine when you can,
I also found that the XHC unit sort of works with usb power but it did not allow the driver to be run, had to put voltage into the supply ie the 5 volt input, if you know what I mean?

So it could be used as a power kill to the driver part of the opto couplers, the XHC still is powered via the USB but just will show and error,

Cheers for now

paul

2
I worked it out,

for my model of the XHC USB breakout, it is the older one.

Now I had to supply a pin with 10 volts to enable the 0-10 VFD out put, the pin is marked as

The adjustment in black, then as below

VR=10Vin          this where I had to  put 10 volts DC in
VI=0~10Vout    this is the 0-10 volts to the VFD unit
COM=0V           well guess the 0v reference from the supply to the VFD


what I did was to have a buck boost unit about 3 amps supply the VR pin with 10 volts spot on and the GND / 0V to the COM pin, I also have used this as the supply to the volt in for the unit, as mine was a 5 VOLT ONLY into, not marked as so is blew up the protection, lucky for me, but a new one was going to cost $$$ so I repaired it.

The unit has a spot for a small switch mode inside for like a higher voltage, the input tracks where vaporized as it was major, I was very upset thinking that it was toast, after finding a place to insert 5 volts and the GND, the unit powered up after removing the protection zener diode it did the job well, silicon heaven for it.

so after testing the unit, found to be working perfect, I made up a better power supply section and this allows me to put anything about 7.5 volts up to 24 if needed but it is a large volt drop and heat is needed to be reduced, I did not have a small buck boost to put in, but if I have to open it up again I will.
Anyway I bought the 3 axis unit thinking larger on I could buy a four or five unit, to my surprise I found out by stuffing around the unit can do 6 axis, yes that is right, some oscilloscope work for all is right, the holes for the opto-couplers where not soldered so I put sockets in and ordered 6 more, about $20, installed them and the unit is a 6 axis unit, SWEET.

Whilst testing the MILL, I had a blow up one of the drivers MA-860h let smoke out, lots of smoke, now this units have  put it nicely substandard heat sinking, I will explain, 4.4 amps OK for now, this was the Z axis.

The XHC unit is perfect and working well, I had a problem with one of the drives , every now and again it would go into error on power up, sometime not, so it was put into a easy to get to spot.
Now when I made the box up for the controllers and the power supplies, this is all forced air feed by two good 240 volt fans, lots of air.

Of course I tried to get a replacement unit because this blew up and there was a year warranty, well they did not want to give a new unit or fix, ebay messages, ebay did not want to help me, so using ebay support is a waste of time they look after the sellers not the buyers, even with there advertising on TV. Anyway after 2 months of not nice emails, I said give me a good price, NO freight and I will just buy it, I just got feed up, ebay sucks, then it took 5 weeks to get here, grrrr.
Australian customs are slowing down everything that is sold via ebay, they are making us pay import tax and GST on items, government trying to stop ebay, total ebay sales for Australia is about 1-2 % total profit for Australia.

Anyway after a lot of waiting, the PSU was a 3 month wait due to Chinese new year, even that I bought it a week before it, nothing happens for 4 weeks.

The MA860h now this is an argument waiting to happen, I hope people can answer this but think first.

OK you supply three MA860h's with 24 Volts with 30 amps supply, to a stepper with a part number of  KL34H260-42-8B specs are 465 oz/in at 6 amps in parallel bipolar which is about 1.62 volts per phase.

ok the maths remember ohms law and the power law.... v/i x r and p / v x i   well that is what I am using with this example.

so we have a stepper with a rating of 6 amps per phase with resistance of 0.27 ohms this works out to 1.62 volts. ok the maths 6amps X 0.27 ohms = 1.62 volts

the voltage drop that the mosfets have to do and the heat is now going to show up 24 volts from the big supply minus the voltage at the motor required  will equal the voltage drop OK

24 v - 1.62 v (from the stepper) = 22.38 volts this is the voltage drop, OK

well a little more maths its easy.. to show the heat to get rid of via the mosfets and that small heat sink and that stupid little fan they put on a joke if you ask me. remember P / V x I

22.38 volts drop X 6 amps per phase = 134.28 watts now this is heat, gotta get rid of some how.

Now the reason why I have spoken up about this, THEY want me to run the supply at 48 volts or higher, for what you ask, well they say it is the way it is always done, why prove it to me, they could not, these people sell loads of CNC gear and are well known, I am not going to say who they are just as professional not like the internet can be. so more maths ok I will be quick now

48 volts - 1.62 =  46.38 volts drop

then power

46.38 x 6 amps = 278.28 watts in heat

WHY ???? the extra voltage, the machine runs fast and has a heap of torque due to a 2:1 reduction and a 5mm pitch ball screw so there is TONS I have tried to stall a motor and the mill has killed everything I would say the extra voltage is not need.

Now can I see if people know this or are people being led down the garden path.

Cheers all Paul

3
Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / Re: HELP with transport wax
« on: April 17, 2015, 07:28:34 PM »
Many thanks for the reply,
believe it or not after posting it I was thinking that I might have to pull it basically 100% apart only the belt drive section does not, I have all ready cleaned this.

I will have to go out today and buy a pile of supplies WD40, petrol box of matches lol.

And again many thanks for the reply and ideas, time to get greasy or waxy.


Paul

4
Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / HELP with transport wax
« on: April 17, 2015, 08:00:01 AM »
Hi there all,
not sure if this is the place but here goes.

I have been playing around with the Z -axis on my ZX-30 drill mill and I noticed every time I sprayed the thing its called the gibb (bit that goes up and down with the cutter power by the pulleys at the top) you understand.
Well every time I sprayed the Teflon spray it ran sweet for a couple up and downs and then slowed down, this Teflon spray is a no build up spray so it should not be a problem.
I found the transportation wax was soften up  mainly due to the chemicals and the wax has to be scrubbed off.

Now I am getting sick of this, is there a way of cleaning for once and never have the problem again, I think this might be part of the Y axis I have problem now I really do not want to have to pull this mill apart as it is almost 90 % complete mechanically.

Hopefully some one known of some harsh chemicals that will not make the men in full body suits turn up , one step back, this machine is now about 6-7 years old and this is the reason why I was surprised to find more wax.

Cheers all hopefully some one knows a way of making my day.

bye for now Paul
 

5
Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / HELP with a Chinese ZX-30 DRILL MILL
« on: April 17, 2015, 05:30:09 AM »
Hi There all,
this is my first retrofit and I hope not the last.
Anyway the system is a Chinese Drill Mill Part number ZX-30 x movement is 500mm now and the y movement is about 200 ish and the z is standard what ever it was it is.
I am using the USB-POD break out board and this works good, as long as you know of a couple of things.
The LED blinking makes you think it is ready for work, but you need to supply it the voltage on the input pins to make it work, even the e-stop will not work with out external supply, another thing if it is a 5 volt main in do-not exceed it 5.18 volts makes it mad, just be warned.

So we have a ZX-30
a USB-POD for controll
a set of MA860H for stepper driving
set of KL34H260-42-8B steppers
reduction on drives are
X & Y are 2:1
Z is 1.5:1

movement up till I did something was sweet the X axis movement was very nice full speed was scary, Z was quick but this machine will do was I could never do.

I was going to put a bearing stay on the end of the ball screw for the Y axis but I have seen people cut part of their mill away to make stuff fit, OK I made it so I could move the head in one piece from the main bottom where I needed to cut, So I let lose with the 5 inch cutting away and not a care in the world, then I cut a bit out on the bottom of the riser, found out this is a solid casting did my best.

Bolted it back together after a bit of spring cleaning,tighten down the four bolts to 140 lb/sq inch before they felt lose, I really did not think much of it at the time.
Now testing the Y ball screw humm, error, still not enough, hang on I just cut out 30 mm, something in my head went off, test the axis stupid.
well z not touched works fine, x on the long travel fine, bugger me I can not even move the Y axis, before I could move it easy.

I have cleaned the slides still no good, apart from pulling it 100% apart again has anybody got an idea, or have I turned a good hand mill that use to work into a pile of scrape cast steel.

The long of the story is I have been going like nuts to get this thing working this year, even waited 2.5 months for a power supply from a dealer on eBay got mucked around by the seller and eBay them selves.

I hope that some one might be able to give me a pointer good to learn on it.

This machine has going to be the small machine so I can make my bigger unit, the 500 x 200 is a bit to small, 800 x 500 would be great or 1000 x 600 yer that is the size I would love, complete cover in, coolant catchment, you know the stuff dreams get made of, just not having this machine running right is going to make it impossible to make parts.

cheers all

Paul
 

6
Hi there all,
I have only had one contact to help me out but it really did not help me out, fact needing to wait 9 weeks so I said dont worry.

Anyway I had a brain burst, and idea, now thes XHC mach 3 motion controllers or Break out Boards are not really well documented for people wanting to do something out of the ordinary.
Let me explain correctly. I do not want to step on toes or upset people.

I have the XHC BoB that has the 5 volt power input, its the OLD board, bought brand new at the start of the year.
If you want to control motors on and off that is easy, in fact 99% of the standard set-up works out of the box.
It is the 1% of people that want to SPEED control motors using a VFD (variable frequency drive).
I do not have 3 phase on the property I have and the cost to install is more than I would be happy to pay for and I am an industrial electrician.
So converting single to 3 phase is common and easy to do, with the right gear, well I own a speed controller that was pulled out so it was spare.
Now the instruction manual is poor for the XHC and the people there do not answer emails, well not mine, ;(.

So how did I get it working, believe it or not to easy, should of though of this before, but now I can share the ways the output works.
There are 3 terminals a
com which is 0v ie ground
VI which is the 0-10 volt output
and the VR terminal 10c-in yes thats right you guessed it.

well I spend days on and off trying to get a single volt out of the VI pin, then I shoved 10 volts on the VR pin PRESTO come to life.
Looks like the VI pin I though was a Volt Reference pin does a little more, lol.
egg on my face.

In Mach 3 it was simple.   
Go to Config/ then ports and pins then the spindle set-up
in the motor control area all I selected was the normal use spindle motor control and the PWM control, PWMBase Freq is currently 500 but will play with that and the minimum PWM is zero and I have the M3 and M4 selected for direction controls.
I really do not believe it.

I will document the complete process of this mill conversion as it should now have been the nightmare I have had doing it, I think it comes down trying to get parts with in Australia, third world countries have it easier.

Try this see if you can find a metric nut to suit a ball screw like M12 x 1mm pitch, a six week wait is not right. With that you can start to see my frustrations. Any way learning loads.

Cheers for now

Paul

7
Hi there all,
currently I am still in testing phase for my electronics and electrical gear, reason why waiting for the M12x1 nuts to come from gods know where for my ballscrews on the retrofit, so i am stuck, mill in many pieces.

Anyway this is what I have the mill is a ZX30 drill / mill this is OK for now but later on hoping to build something bigger.
The computer is a Dell optiplex duo core set-up in 32 bit mode, windows 7 32 bit 4 gig of memory even though windows will not read it, do not care about that, solid state drive, just what is needed in a workshop.
Control gear is well the break out is a XHC USB breakout board, I have most inputs and outputs working on this and generally looks not to be to bad ( wait and see)
Stepper controllers are MA860H and some big steppers I bought about 5 years ago when I started thinking about this project, ran out of money and lost interest. These are supplied by a big transformer from my electrical mechanical days as a service dude.
Also a commander 1.5Kw single phase to 3 phase VSD inverter which will be driving a D90S framed 3 phase 1.1Kw motor 4 pole, this will be replacing the single phase motor, technically 2.5 more torque.
 


Now I am using Mach 3 demo, just so people know, love the program.

Now the problem.
I am hoping someone has done this and could help me out a little.
I need or would like to use the 0-10 volt VSD control out from the XHC breakout box.
I have done what is talked about in the manual with no luck, I have test gear to prove its not working without having to connect the VSD up good multimeter's and several different oscilloscopes all show I am NOT getting any output.

If some one has got this bit of magic working I would love to know, as my idea is call me nuts but for now use one setup of different machines, can not see a reason why not.

I will press on trying to work it out but.

I look forward to emails and ideas,

Paul

8
NC Pod / USB CNC Pod on my mill
« on: January 24, 2015, 08:06:52 PM »
Hi there all,
currently I am in the very middle of retrofitting my Chinese ZX30 Mill, currently I am waiting 3-4 weeks for the nuts for the Zero Lash Ballscrews I bought, not happy over that, no body in South Australia has M12x1mm, they all say they do then look sorry nope.
Anyway I also have one of these XHC USB breakout pod things, only thing I can say is if it states 5 volts on the input make sure you do not go to much over it, otherwise smoke, the tracks in the voltage regulation area are small, I smoked mine up on 5.18 volts DC, I also repaired it now it has a LM 7805 5 volt regulator inside so now more surprises.

Some of what I am doing, the ZX30 normally has ACME screws they have been removed and new ball screws installed, well up to a point, BTW the table is very heavy, I have a bad back and being stupid, stupid me moved it and twisted my back, still very sore three weeks now.
This gave time to play with the USB breakout box, ok some help for others, yes I said about the supply very important, now it does power up on the usb power from the computer, BUT it does not supply the 5 volts on the input pins and allow the output to work, so if it has the flashing led that is cool, but if the software states it can communicate even better, but you need the 5 volt supply to make any of the inputs and outputs to work, just a friendly helping hand.

With the ZX30 mill I am going to remove the single phase drive motor and replace with a 3 phase 1.1 Kw D90S frame motor, about three times the torque sort off, I will be using a 1.5 Kw Variable Speed Drive using the 0-10 volt output from the breakout box, has anybody had luck with this?
I will have a RPM  hall sensor measuring the RPM of the spindle.

A question regarding the USB breakout box, has anybody used the inputs marked START and STOP, what are these in relation to ?

Currently I am doing a proof of concept on the lounge room floor, as the shed is very busy at the moment.

People please do not worry about me and mains voltage I am an electrician by trade and have worked in the commercial / industrial area for many years, this project has been in the parts collection phase for about 7 years now, only thing I currently do not have is the motor.

I would like to ask a question to the public, this is regarding input devices, as I am going to be using hall effect to detect the speed of the spindle, has anybody played with using industrial hall effect units, is it better than mechanical limit switches or are the hall units better for home positioning, it would be interesting to hear what people think .

Cheers for now

Paul

9
General Mach Discussion / Mach3 Window7 64 bit and the XHC breakout
« on: January 18, 2015, 07:38:13 PM »
Hi there all,
first up a newbie.
Ok the problem the XHC thing has anybody had problem with them making smoke? supply rail was 5.18 volts on a calibrated meter, now I do not have anything near 5 volts on the input pins.
I have been into electronics all my life and hold an electronics degree, I was shocked that a piece of gear built today would have zener diodes protecting the 5 volt input. Well now it is a major problem as it has gone open circuit, lol.
The second problem is with the OS, so far I am building the electronics on the floor in the lounge room, and all the mechanical hardware is in the shed, currently modifying the ZX30 mill to CNC, all new ball screws motor mounts and so on, reason why in the house can turn on the air conditioning when hot, I need to prove the concept before stuffing it all in a box.
Back to the OS, open to the suggestion what is better and what works, currently I have plenty of PC's that should run Mach3, and I really do not want to play install the misery OS until it works.

The XHC box has anybody else had problems?, are the stupid thing reliable, or have I wasted money I simply do not have to waste.

Cheers all

Paul   

Pages: 1