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Messages - magicniner

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241
Show"N"Tell ( What you have made with your CNC machine.) / Re: Steel Stamp
« on: September 26, 2013, 03:27:28 AM »
Cool! What type of steel did you use to machine the stamp? And did you do any sort of hardening to it after machining?


It was some general purpose tool steel I had in stock for making pins & punches, machined in it's fully annealed state then hardened and tempered to around 65 Rockwell C.
It was nice to have a use for my new (to me) heat treatment furnace, I really need to finish fixing that furnace door!  :-)

242
Show"N"Tell ( What you have made with your CNC machine.) / Steel Stamp
« on: September 22, 2013, 02:23:52 PM »
A friend asked if I could make him a stamp with his log to brand some parts he makes whilst hot, he provided the artwork and I made this -



This is what it does on hot steel plate -



I'm quite pleased with the results, I prototyped in aluminium then went straight to the finished item in one multi-pass operation starting with a .1mm cut then .2mm per pass to the finished depth of .9mm,

 - Nick

243
Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / Re: Conect Contour Major Mill
« on: September 21, 2013, 02:50:46 PM »
I'd be tempted to go with a breakout board, individual axis driver boards to suit your stepper motors, PSU(s) and an enclosure.
Having succesfully added a 4th axis to a 3 Axis Routout CNC box, but only after I'd messed about with and sent back a 5-axis all in one board from china, I'd go with as many discrete parts in the system as possible, that way when a part fails that's the only bit you'll need to replace, if you go for one morev axis than you need you'll be able to repurpose the spare in the event an axis fails on a Sunday morning ;-)
ATB,
Nick

244
It looks like my time and money have been wasted on buying a CNC that I cant use cause there is NO links to tutorioals for G-code

I bought a CNC machine with known faults and diagnosed & fixed the system.
I was so proud when I got it all working with the steppers finally not loosing steps.

Then I looked at my perfect working CNC mill and thought "I have no means of generating the code to make this work"

Rather than cry I proceeded to research the market, with generous help from people here, and I bought CAD/CAM software that will allow me to create the models of what I want and translate them into G-Code that my mill can run.
I'm learning to use CAD/CAM now and I've asked questions about how to use features but for some reason it's never occurred to me to ask someone else to do all the work for me, I think you should ask sensible questions like "How do I generate G-Code" (answer earlier and later in this sentence and in the preceeding paragraph) and what CAD/CAM software might be best for your requirements and budget, learning G-Code will help you understand, correct and modify what you're feeding to your CNC machine but it's a serious error to believe that you're going to learn G-Code and promptly type out a programme for the project you've asked about.
It's a steep learning curve, enjoy it ;-)
Nick

245

That is why I am trying to start with some simple like making accessories for GI joe size 3.75inch figures or the Kenner Real Ghostbusters 4 inch figures.
 

You must be far more experienced than me, it looks like quite a complex job to me with my limited solid modelling experience,
keep us posted on how you get on with your project,
ATB,
Nick

246
Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / Re: My Benchtop Mill
« on: September 14, 2013, 02:07:15 PM »
Rich,
That's precision beyond that which I think I might ever manage!
ATB,
Nick

247
Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / Re: My Benchtop Mill
« on: September 10, 2013, 04:17:38 PM »
Thanks! the Z way protection is a toilet waste flexible connector with the push-on rubber ends removed, it's slit to fit around the column and stitched back together behind the column with ty-wraps.

Once I identified the problem I adjusted end float on the X & Y shaft end bearings and eliminated the backlash that was causing problems like the artifacts in the circles in the S&W test logo above.

 - Nick

248
I was asked to engrave a couple of slides in Century Bold and Century Bold Italic, I used 30 degree V 1/8 inch engraving cutters running at around 16000 rpm with really slow feed to get clean smooth edges in the soft slide castings.
This was the first time I've used V-Carve in BobCad/Cam and I'm really impressed with the 3D cutter path generation and the sharp, bright look of the cut faces in the letters, I'm afraid my photography has failed to show the detail though





They've now gone for DuraCoat prior to return to the customer.
ATB,
Nick

249
Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / Re: Improving a cheap 4th axis
« on: August 03, 2013, 11:31:28 AM »
Hmm,
Cheers Tweakie, I've managed a test engraving of the words "Test Text" 5mm high around a 20mm diameter stainless bar and everything is looking positive, the "Beer Cup Holder" might be a good project ;-)
That'll have to wait a while though 'cos I've been reading through the Mach 3 manual on switch wiring. I've realised I could use the spare input I have (after bringing all 5 available inputs from the breakout board in my Routout CNC box out to the front panel on a new 6-way connector, then adding an E-Stop) to add limit switches;
This shows the original (red) X home switch and my new Y limit switch -



This shows the original (red) Y home switch and my new X limit switch -


250
Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / Re: Improving a cheap 4th axis
« on: July 29, 2013, 04:44:59 AM »
Thanks Brett,
It's definitely getting there!
The cheap Chinese 4th axis is definitely a worthwhile purchase as you do a lot for your money, the down side is that like much cheap stuff it's best stripped , fettled and rebuilt.
This one needed the tubular shaft facing square at both ends as it was cut off in a saw resulting in misalignment when assembled and pressed together, the spacer for the rear pulley was a section of plastic pipe cut with a saw which needed replacing with a turned part.
Once reassembled there was still a little runout on the chuck mounting face, milling under manual controll squared this up perfectly.
The chuck will need replacing at some point but for the time being I used 3 heavy springs radially between the jaws to allow the chuck to be tightened whilst open enough to allow grinding of the jaws, with the chuck mounted on my lathe and a Dremmel on the toolpost I was able to make the chuck acceptable for the time being.
Now I just need to make some stuff! ;-)
ATB,
Nick

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