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Messages - Vogavt

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Finished Screens / Re: Mach3 2010 Screenset - Now available
« on: July 17, 2012, 09:59:46 AM »
Do you need to see both the commanded speed and actual? I modified a screen for someone to do that. Send me an email explaining what you want and I'll se what I can do.

I'd like to have both visible but not necessarily at the same time (to keep from taking up too much desktop space)
For those that have spindle speed feedback set up, I think having the ability to simply toggle between the two would be nice. (small radio button above the DRO).

After several emails back and forth with Arturo, I finally have success!

I now have the c11 board working with the KBLC-19M and have full control of spindle speed.

Here's what worked for me (Your Mileage May Vary):

I needed to verify the maximum voltage across Pin 1 and Pin 2 of the KB board. As stated before, I had the KB board wired to a potentiometer. Started out with the KBLC-19M not connected to the c11.

1. With NOTHING but power to the KB board AND manipulating the pot AND checking the voltage across P1 & P2 of the KB board, I read a maximum of 8Vdc. I had the maximum voltage coming out to the c11 board at 10Vdc which may have caused an over-voltage issue and toasted my chip set on the c11.

2. On the c11 board I then set the pot on the analog out to minimum voltage by rotating the pot adjustment screw fully counter-clockwise.

3. Again, WITHOUT the KB board connected to the c11, I powered up the c11.

4. In Mach3, I requested the maximum RPM (M3 S6000 for me) to match with my maximum pulley speed setting (Pulley 1 is at maximum 6000 for me). Measuring the analog output on the c11, I was only able to get the voltage down to 9Vdc.  I knew some adjustments were needed in Mach3.

5. Turned the spindle off (M5)

6. In Mach3, under Motor Tuning, I decreased my spindle velocity to 1200 units (it was at 1500 before).

7. Turned the spindle back on & pushed its speed to maximum rpm via Mach3 as in Step 4.

8. I remeasured the voltage out on the c11 and it was then reading 7Vdc.

9. I adjusted the pot on the c11 to read 8Vdc.

10. Turned the spindle off and turned all power off.

11. Disconnected all three potentiometer wires from the KBLC.

12. Connected the P1 from the KBLC to GND (Analog Out) on the c11.

13. Connected the P2 from the KBLC to 10Vdc (Analog Out) on the c11.

14. Said a prayer!

15. Powered everything up - no sparks or flashes!

16. In Mach3, requested various speeds with success.

Hope this helps!

General Mach Discussion / Re: PART CNC PART MECHANICAL
« on: July 09, 2012, 06:40:34 PM »
Wondering if someone could take a look at another Opto Sensor type. It's the HOA1405-001. It doesn't require a slot because the IR LED and the Sensor are pointed at an angle to each other so all that's needed is a reflective spot.

I'm just to ignorant to make a definitive call on how the wires go together.

I'm using the cnc4pc c11 board.

My thoughts are as follows:
C - Input Pin on BOB
E & K - Wired together and put on GND of BOB
A - Place 220 Ohm resister prior to connecting to 5V on BOB.

Any advice would be appreciated before I destroy something. I don't want to fry the IR LED nor burn out the Sensor. Also want to make sure I put the Ground wire where it's supposed to go on the c11 as well.

(I'm still attempting to touch base with Arturo but haven't been able to talk to him in weeks now.)


Well, I got my replacement chips in yesterday and got them in changed out in my c11 board. Everything's working as it was before. I now have voltage being changed at the analog output.

HOWEVER, I'm not connecting anything to it until I hear back from Arturo. All I can confirm is the voltage changes as I make varying M3 speed calls.

I've already been down that road of blown traces but not on my c11, just on the KBLC-19M.


And for others benefit a simple schematic would be nice too! Not an electronics type schematic, but a wire from point A to Point B.

Okay, I'll admit it... it's really to help the voodoo electro-magical challenged like me.

My 12V supply is independent for supplying voltage to the analog input of the c11 board.  Still no joy.

In a moment of frustration on getting this to work, a couple of weeks ago I connected to the F+ and F- to my KBLC-19m. Huge flash! Huge!

Don't do this. It's reported elsewhere that at least on one of these board there's some faulty information.

It blew one of the traces completely off the KBLC-19M board. I resoldered it with a small shielded wire, then connected it to the A+ and A-. When I applied the power to the KBLC-19M with it back to "normal", it blew yet another set of traces!

This board is seriously hosed up and only good for parts (maybe).

Luckily, I'd bought two KBLC-19M's at the same time. I wasn't planning on having it as a spare; I wanted it for setting up my lathe.

Make sure you know what you're doing. Get some help.

In my case, I needed help..... professional help, because I dumped my cauldron of magic smoke! ;D

I decided that in order to control the speed from Mach 3 I will need to opto-isolate the variable duty-cycle output and smooth it on the "KB" side of the isolator.

"Opto-isonlate" Are you saying that you need another board? The c11 has that already.

"smooth in on the KB side" How?

Sorry I not the brightest when it comes to electronics (except when that dreadful flash of brightness happens, and in my case it usually means a bad thing if you get my drift). LOL!

Not me but I'm attempting the same scenario.

Waiting now of replacement chips for the c11 from Arturo. Seems he's out of stock on one particular IC needed for the set but he didn't say when it was due to come in.

On hold for now. Once I get things running I'll let you know how mine is setup.

Actually now looking into the Gecko 540 and a higher Amp & Voltage power supply too.

I may disband the whole cnc4pc thing. Well see.

If you get it figured out before me, I'd appreciate the reciprocity of the details!



It is a Honeywell model HOA 1887-012

I now have these on all of my machine axis and also on the 4th axis and they will be used on the commercial verison of the 4th axis as well. You simply need a 100 to 150 ohm resistor on the 5V that feeds the LED (red wire) You can use 5V or up to 30V for the trigger side.

@ simpson36 (or others)
Can you be a little more descriptive of your wiring scheme? There are more wires attached than what you describe. And with me being eletronics challenged and I frequently blow things up when I don't know what I'm doing.

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