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Messages - DICKEYBIRD

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411
I just finished getting another function to work I couldn't figure out previously.  I wanted to be able to switch the spindle back & forth between manual (via potentiometer) and Mach speed control and one of the example schematics in the -240G manual showed clearly how to wire it up.  It works!

There is a big difference between the top speed in the 2 modes so I guess it'll require some juggling of the trim pots on the 3 boards to get it right but juggling I can handle....it's the smoke & flashing events I have trouble with. ;D

ps: I got lucky & didn't have to buy a set of chips. ::)

412
I yell & scream at my monitor many times when I search for solutions to problems and find that the threads with my exact problem just die quietly.  I guess the OP gets the fault fixed and doesn't bother to post the fix.  With that said, here's what I did for a solid fix for my C11/KBIC-120 speed control problem.

I read the KB manual more thoroughly and they stress that the voltage following connection voltage must come from an isolated source such as their KBSI-240D Signal Isolator Board to go between the process control and the KB speed controller.  I watched eBay for a while and finally won one for $34.00 shipped.  I hooked it up (via P2 and F- on the KBIC-120) as per the manual and every thing works great!  I guess I'm too electronically challenged to get my head around Arturo's many & varied instructions re: C11 & C6 speed control hookup.  The isolation thing is stressed but (IMO) there's not enough clear, step by step instructions in the C11 manual on how to achieve it.

The KBSI-240D has really nice multi-turn min/max speed pots and a few minutes of fine tuning now has my spindle speed consistently & accurately tracking all speeds I input into Mach.  HALLE-FRICK'N-LUJAH!!

413
Well I'm back where I started.  I got the C11 0-10VDC-out terminal working again by jumping across the vaporized track.  Got the KB working by replacing the fuse; the manual pot still works fine.  So...the C11 is now workiing up & down via Mach commands and the KB is working normally.

I followed Vogavt's instructions except my KBIC-120 only measured 3.55V across P1/P2 with the pot turned wide open.  I commanded 2000 rpm in Mach, set the C11 pot to 3.55V, disconnected the manual pot, hooked up P1 to Gnd and P2 to the analog out on the C11 and did a M3S500 MDI command.  No flashy arcs but the motor instantly jerked up to WFO and no amount of Mach fiddling makes a bit of difference.

I guess I'm going to have to get one of the KBSI-5 Barrier Terminal Board Signal Isolators so I can hook up like the manual says to P2 & F-.  Anybody know how to isolate the analog out signal from the C11 from the KB without the KB expensive isolator board?  I need Mach speed control but don't want any more flashy bangs.

414
Thanks, mebbe there is a Santy Clause after all! ;D 

I'm wrapped up with other stuff right now but hopefully I can duplicate your success this weekend; Lord willin' and the creek don't rise as my pappy used to say.

415
Thanks again nuc, if it's working, please don't mess with it on my account!  All I've managed to do now is blow the fuse on my KB and vaporize a track on the C11 board.  This thing is killin' me! :-[

416
Thanks nuc, that confirms the P2/F- hookup as I found in the KB manual.

Question: In the 3rd picture I see the green wire connected to P2 but what's connected to (I assume) the P1 & P2 terminals next to it with the blue & black wires.  Is that the 2 wires from the old manual pot?  Should they be left connected?  I assumed that with computer speed control via C11 the manual pot was supposed to be completely removed??

If they're not the 2 wires from the pot, what are they?

417
Thanks, that'd be awesome!  It'll really help Vogavt and I a lot. ;D

418
Hi John, I'm using a separate 12V power supply all by itself to supply the C11 speed control power input.  That part should be fine....unless I need to plug it in at the neighbor's house to completely isolate it. ;)

The paragraph from the KB manual quoted above is the answer...I think.  I would've verified it last night but after an evening of lawn mowing in 100 deg. heat and the appropriate celebratory libation, I was in no mood to joust with magic smoke. ;D

I've had the C11 gnd/0-10V outputs connected to the KB P1 & P2 terminals all along which must be wrong as the KB manual clearly states that it wants to see a 0-7V input at P2 and F-  I think what I'll do as a test is to connect a separate 3V source to those 2 terminals and see if I get roughly half-speed at the motor.

Thanks for the heads-up Vogavt, I definitely won't connect to the F+ terminal! :o  I'll post my results...good or bad.

419
Geez, can this be simply a case of "Should'a RTFM?"  From the KBIC manual:

"The output of the control is a linear function of potentiometer rotation. The KBIC®
can also be operated in a voltage following mode by supplying an isolated analog signal (0-7 VDC) to the
input terminals P2 (+) and F-. If an isolated input signal is not available, the optional Barrier Terminal
Board Signal Isolator (SI-5) can be used."


So, this means I should adjust the C11 on-board trim pot to 7V, connect the Gnd and 0-10V terminals to the P2 and F- terminals on the KB and Robert is my father's brother?

420
I just found this datasheet on a (now discintinued) KB Electronic Potentiometer that I suppose performs a similar chore as the C11 only with pushbuttons to do the up/down speed commands instead of Mach inputs.  To ye of the Society of Magic Smoke Tamers it probably means something but to me not so much.  It connects to the F+ & F- terminals as well but I thought they were field connections for wound field motors, not PM motors as I'm using.

http://www.a-aelectric.com/pdfs/KBEP240d.pdf

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