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Messages - Jennifer

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31
General Mach Discussion / Re: HELP! - breakout board diagnosis help needed
« on: November 15, 2010, 04:38:17 PM »
Hi there, I scoped out the three pins for "step" from my parallel port and had a fairly square wave, a little slope was present especially on the signal hi to low part of the wave but nothing to write home about, but worth mentioning here. there is nothing but very low voltage (less than .15v) "noise" on the BOB's output. I am at a loss. the best thing to do at this point is wait for the replacement board to come and see what happens when i replace it.

Thanks everyone for your help to up to this point, keep those suggestions coming.

32
General Mach Discussion / Re: HELP! - breakout board diagnosis help needed
« on: November 15, 2010, 08:31:28 AM »
Thanks once again,

I will try your suggested fix, and scope out the signal on the "step" pins just to see what is going on when i get home from the saltmine. I'll let yall know how i make out.

Also thanks for the note on the power led, i was worried that applying current to the power terminal from the seperate power supply I had fitted to the BOB could somehow feed back to the computer and cause an issue. I found a really clean switched power supply capable of a continuous 5A's in a nice small steel case for less than twenty bucks. when I scoped the output it had very little ripple.

Jen

33
General Mach Discussion / Re: HELP! - breakout board diagnosis help needed
« on: November 15, 2010, 07:53:38 AM »
Hi Tweakie,

Yes I verified the connections by "ringing thru" all eight pins on each of the three RJ-45 jumpers connecting the BOB to the controllers, even replaced all three of the jumpers to eliminate a "lossy" connection. they are "straight thru" CAT-6 cables as opposed to the ones that "cross over". Also i tried both methods of the active high and active low signal types from Mach-3. Because it works when i bypass the BOB i must assume that Mach-3 is doing it's job.

I ordered another BOB on Saturday, so by mid week should know if it is the BOB, unless i wind up with two bad boards from the same supplier.

I have only been playing with CNC for three or four weeks now, it is amazing how much knowledge i have been able to accumulate in this old brain in such a short time. the good part is i have been able to set up my router, have purchased the CAD software and am well into drafting the parts for my first CNC cut ukulele. That's right i am a luthier and inlay artist trying to bring my skill set into the 1990's.

what i would like to know is what the BOB expects in the way of input from the parallel port. is it just a nice square 5v "wave" for "step" and the same to change "dir"?

Perhaps i can use this as an excuse to buy myself a nice new O-Scope :P one of those digital recording ones. i have an old war surplus dual beam that world make a fine mooring for a small yacht. but it gets the job done.

one thing i did notice is that when i remove the 5v supply from the BOB and connect it to the parallel port the power led still lights on the BOB. I can only assume that it is usurping some power from the parallel port. Is this normal? the board does recognize when it is connected to the parallel port, because the "output status" led light goes hi when it is connected.

i remember an old shaggy dog joke regarding the meaning of life, it's punch line (after about ten minutes of rhetoric) was "Life is like a waterfall"

thanks everyone for your advise to this point, it is more than appreciated,
Jen



34
General Mach Discussion / Re: HELP! - breakout board diagnosis help needed
« on: November 15, 2010, 05:09:24 AM »
Thanks for the advice TP, I ran a jumper from EN to +5v, that was the first thing i did upon installation. i also checked that it was getting the correct voltage on the EN pin.

35
General Mach Discussion / Re: HELP! - breakout board diagnosis help needed
« on: November 14, 2010, 11:16:56 AM »
Thanks Hood, who is Arturo?

36
General Mach Discussion / HELP! - breakout board diagnosis help needed
« on: November 13, 2010, 03:40:02 PM »
Hi There,

I have been going nuts trying to diagnose an issue with a - C35 - QUICK SETUP BREAKOUT BOARD - I can get Mach 3 to work just fine without the breakout simply by wiring my three controllers (X,Y,Z) directly to the parallel port. but when i use them in conjunction with the breakout board i get BUBKIS! i have tried both ways jumpering SCHP to both the On and Off configurations and enabling it in Mach3 on pin 17. Either way i do not get signal to the controllers. in fact zilch from the controllers. when i use the controllers direct via parallel port the three axis "lock up" and are ready for input from Mach3, when i use the breakout they move freely, nothing seemed to be coming from the controllers.

i have supplied the breakout with +5V clean DC, with up to 4amps if needed. the board's "power" led lights as well as the "output status" led if SCHP is disabled or of enabled and signal is present on pin 17. I have replaced the RJ45's cables that connect the board to the controllers and rang them thru with a VOM so i have eliminated bad cabling.

Could it just be a bad board? where do i look next? is there some definitive test for a breakout board? what is the meaning of life? HELP!!!!

Thanks,
Jen

37
Hi,

This is a post I found on another site called “do it yourself christmas.com”.

I thought this may be useful to other “newbies” like me for figuring out if their parallel port is functioning physically and programmatically. Pretty neat considering the only hardware tool required is a VOM capable of reading +5V DC.

You will require the following software:

--Parallel port monitor-- (or use “parmon” that tweakie so graciously turned me on to from: http://www.geekhideout.com/parmon.shtml)

 this will require a logon to the forum if you choose to follow the instructions 100%

http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=7779&stc=1&d=1287369784

--Dll for Vixen Software--

http://www.vixenlights.com/plugins/output/BasicParallel.dll

--Vixen itself--:

http://www.vixenlights.com/releases/Vixen%202.1.1.0.zip

--here is a nice Parallel port diagram--

http://www.vixenlights.com/releases/Vixen%202.1.1.0.zip

finally here is the procedure:

=================================
Step one:
Download the parallel port monitor program (PPM). Unzip and extract the .exe file.
Open the port monitor program and familiarize yourself with it. The most important feature of this program at this point is the ability to manually turn on the first 7 pins (pinout 2 - 8) by clicking on the first port and manually changing the 0's and 1's. 1 means its on, 0 means its off.

Now, take your Cat5 cable, and strip the wires at both ends. at this point, it does not matter what pattern you use, only that you know what wire is in what port. You can use the following chart if you like

Orange Pin 24
Orange/White Pin 2
Blue Pin 3
Blue/White Pin 4
Green Pin 5
Green/White Pin 6
Brown Pin 7
Brown/White Pin 8

Now, using the PPM, change the value of the parallel port to 11111111.

With this done, it is time to get out the multimeter. Check each of the wires on pins 2-8 for voltage. Ground to the orange wire, hot to the numbered wires. you should get approx 4.5v on each wire. If this works, then your PP is working properly. If not, make certain of your pinouts. You may have them upside down, in which case you need to redo them all and test again.
(sorry I dont have the experience and knowledge to determine problems with non-functioning parallel ports, if you cannot get your port to read with the wires and the PPM, I cant help you.) you could use the LED method I have read about, but this way is a lot cheaper and easier.

Now we have figured out that our PP is working, its time for Vixen.

Download the Vixen 2.1.1.0 program. Open the folder, and find the folder named Output. Open the Output folder and look for a file named BasicParallel.dll. If that file is not in your folder, then download it (link above) and place it in the Output folder.

Now open up vixen and set up a profile.

Create a name (test?) and say ok. Now on the bottom of the setup page is a button named Output plugins. Find the Basic Parallel plugin and add it. now click on the BP on the right side. Set the channels and click on the plugin setup and verify you have the proper port selected. Then click ok, then done, then add your channels and finish creating the profile.

now create a new Vixen standard sequence. no need to add a song, but you can if you like. I created a 30 second blank sequence.

Now, you can create a pattern that will turn on each pin in turn for about 5 seconds each. (I only have 6 channels) Once you have finished that, resize your window so that you can have the PPM visible outside of Vixen. Then run your sequence. You should see each light in the PPM turn on in time with the sequence in Vixen.

If your PP is working, and you set up vixen properly, then you should be set and ready to go at this point. All you need to do now is verify your pinout and run the wires to your setup.
==================================

I hope this will be of use to other’s like me having so much fun setting up your first CNC project.

Jen

38
This is a post I found on another site called “do it yourself christmas.com”.

I thought this may be useful for other “newbies” like me for figuring out if their parallel port is functioning physically and programmatically.

Pretty neat considering the only hardware tool required is a VOM capable of reading +5V DC.

You will require the following software:

Parallel port monitor: (or use « parmon » described by tweakie above)

http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=7779&stc=1&d=1287369784

Dll for Vixen Software :

http://www.vixenlights.com/plugins/output/BasicParallel.dll

Vixen itself :

http://www.vixenlights.com/releases/Vixen%202.1.1.0.zip

here is a nice Parallel port diagram :

http://www.vixenlights.com/releases/Vixen%202.1.1.0.zip



Step one:
Download the parallel port monitor program (PPM). Unzip and extract the .exe file.
Open the port monitor program and familiarize yourself with it. The most important feature of this program at this point is the ability to manually turn on the first 7 pins (pinout 2 - 8) by clicking on the first port and manually changing the 0's and 1's. 1 means its on, 0 means its off.

Now, take your Cat5 cable, and strip the wires at both ends. at this point, it does not matter what pattern you use, only that you know what wire is in what port. You can use the following chart if you like

Orange Pin 24
Orange/White Pin 2
Blue Pin 3
Blue/White Pin 4
Green Pin 5
Green/White Pin 6
Brown Pin 7
Brown/White Pin 8

Now, using the PPM, change the value of the parallel port to 11111111.

With this done, it is time to get out the multimeter. Check each of the wires on pins 2-8 for voltage. Ground to the orange wire, hot to the numbered wires. you should get approx 4.5v on each wire. If this works, then your PP is working properly. If not, make certain of your pinouts. You may have them upside down, in which case you need to redo them all and test again.
(sorry I dont have the experience and knowledge to determine problems with non-functioning parallel ports, if you cannot get your port to read with the wires and the PPM, I cant help you.) you could use the LED method I have read about, but this way is a lot cheaper and easier.

Now we have figured out that our PP is working, its time for Vixen.

Download the Vixen 2.1.1.0 program. Open the folder, and find the folder named Output. Open the Output folder and look for a file named BasicParallel.dll. If that file is not in your folder, then download it (link above) and place it in the Output folder.

Now open up vixen and set up a profile.

Create a name (test?) and say ok. Now on the bottom of the setup page is a button named Output plugins. Find the Basic Parallel plugin and add it. now click on the BP on the right side. Set the channels and click on the plugin setup and verify you have the proper port selected. Then click ok, then done, then add your channels and finish creating the profile.

now create a new Vixen standard sequence. no need to add a song, but you can if you like. I created a 30 second blank sequence.

Now, you can create a pattern that will turn on each pin in turn for about 5 seconds each. (I only have 6 channels) Once you have finished that, resize your window so that you can have the PPM visible outside of Vixen. Then run your sequence. You should see each light in the PPM turn on in time with the sequence in Vixen.

If your PP is working, and you set up vixen properly, then you should be set and ready to go at this point. All you need to do now is verify your pinout and run the wires to your setup.

i hope this helps someone else who is having as mych "fun" setting up their new CNC as I am... Jennifer

39
Thanks Tweakie! That helps,i will check it out.

40
Hi there,

i am a new Mach3 user and new to the CNC world. My hobbies include the Lapidary arts, Goldsmithery and Stringed musical instrument making - particularly inlay work. I also am the proud new owner of a CNC router which i have been having a lot of fun with trying to learn the Mach3 application as well as setting the darn thing up. Other facets of my life include Flying, riding my motorcycle and amateur radio (N3GPA). All of this on top of being a business applications developer for the last 30 years.

If anyone actually reads this i do have two questions:

1) without investing in an expensive datascope, how can i check to see what activity is actually happening on my parallel port?

2) the ability of a CNC router to create the recesses for my inlay work is a "gimme" but i am at a loss to come up with a solution for holding the small pieces of material i use to fill those holes. pieces of abalone, oyster shell @ etc... they are preformed into somewhat random sized pieces of "rough" possibly one or at the most two inches square about .050" thick and quite brittle. If i can come up with a way to hold them i may be able to eliminate some of the tedious work i do with a jewelers saw and concentrate more on my design rather than its execution.

actually i have a third question, I can get the router to respond to the "setup the travel units" function within Mach3 but i cannot get the jog (tab key) function to respond. no matter which way i set the jog enable button - green light on or off. Has any of you ever experienced this condition?

Come to think of it that brings to mind a fourth question: I am trying to decide which CAD application best suits my needs. most of them have user interfaces not well suited to drawing complex curves. the best i can find so far requires me to plot endless points around a sketch i import. it would be nice if there was a product that could turn a line drawing directly into the instructions to create a shape. especially if it could be "scaled" in size once imported. I am leaning towards VCarve-Pro, any suggestions of other products i could look at would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks all, i am looking forward to expanding both my luthier efforts and my "simple" inlay work as well Through the use of Mach3 and CNC.

Jen


 

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