Messages

11

SmoothStepper USB / Re: Smooth Stepper: Versions? Where to buy?

« on: March 04, 2011, 04:00:26 PM »

Warp9 is the creator of the SS but all should be the same version.

12

General Mach Discussion / Re: I really need help from the Pro's!

« on: March 04, 2011, 03:41:01 AM »

Maybe some kind of interference from other machines running in the area? In that case try some power filters and ferrites on signal cables etc.

13

Mach3 under Vista / Re: laptop to parallel

« on: February 18, 2011, 07:58:24 AM »

If you are not using the Smoothstepper I could buy it from you cheap for my next machine! Or maybe trade for something?
Smootstepper has its quirks but work very well iin my application.

14

Tangent Corner / Re: How to identify servo motor

« on: January 16, 2011, 05:38:49 AM »

Hi,

You identify the steppers by taking the marking/type number from the motor and looking it up on the manufacturers website or googling it.

Smootstepper is not a servo controller, it is a motion control interface for mach3.
To control the servo you ned a servo driver like Granite Devices http://www.granitedevices.fi/
Their VSD-E driver has several modes of control including step and direction.

15

Show"N"Tell ( What you have made with your CNC machine.) / Re: My first attempts at laser engraving.

« on: December 22, 2010, 09:05:26 AM »

Strange! Maybe I can help you out but I need some info about your setup; what driver are you using, link to schematic?
Bluerays need a higher voltage to lase, what voltage are you running the drivers on?
Laser diode drivers should be constant current so the voltage is not that important as long as it is over the lasing threshold of the particular diode.

A good driver is essential, if you don't want to buy the P3 I linked to earlier check out the die4drive that is made in uk. Not as powerful as the P3 but also a very good drive, I have several in my laser projectors.
I think it has a max current of 1A and the P3 has 4A max current so both can drive a 445 that need about an Amp to lase.
The P3 can be used with 5V for 445 but the die4drive has higher voltage drop and needs maybe 7V to reliably drive a 445 diode.

You write that you aim for 500-800mW of blue, is that a 445nm "casio" diode?
Ordinary bluerays are hard to get that much power out of, the 4x br diode can produce about 120-150mw and the 6x maybe double. I have not tried the 12x, too expensive and almost obsolete now with 445nm for 40 USD.

Sorry for my laser-babbling, hope it will be of some use!

16

Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / Re: The Laser Project.

« on: December 16, 2010, 05:06:59 AM »

Very nice!

17

Show"N"Tell ( What you have made with your CNC machine.) / Re: My first attempts at laser engraving.

« on: December 14, 2010, 04:48:44 PM »

Hi,

I'll help you out if you want! I love lasers!
How much do you want to spend to get this going?
I would recommend a red 660nm diode from a dvd-burner and a Flexmod P3. should be relatively unkillable, have wide input voltage, good response ans safely produce about 300mW with good beam. Total cost about USD50-60 or so.

Diode:
Groupbuy on laserpointerforums, very cheap, 5x for 30USD! Good to have spares when you are starting out.
http://laserpointerforums.com/f55/maybe-another-gb-lpc-815-sleds-4-45-300mw-red-laser-diode-53347.html

ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/650nm-250mw-Burning-Red-Laser-Diode-USA-3-Day-Ship-/280599607076?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item41550a3724
1x for 15 usd, not cheap but ok.

There are many more.


Driver:
http://hacylon.case.edu/ebay/laser_diode/FlexModP3.php
Good choice. There are simpler ones but this is guaranteed to work!


Case:
Aixiz, usd 5
If you cant re-use a burned out one you already have buy a cheap one here and remove the diode and lens.
http://cgi.ebay.com/650nm-5mW-laser-module-3-2V-12x30mm-kip-kay-project-/380297262381?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item588b7bb52d


lens:
Aixiz glass lens. Good beam, cheap. usd 9
http://cgi.ebay.com/Aixiz-Glass-lens-12x30mm-laser-modules-and-case-USA-/280599619475?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item41550a6793


How to mount the diode to the aixiz housing:
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh149/mevalemadre10/fit_diode1.jpg


A basic how to in constructing a high power laser pointer, some good tips there if you are a beginner to lasers:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/build-guide-comprehensive-guide-your-first-build-53972.html


Just ask if you want to know anything more!

18

General Mach Discussion / Re: laser engraving/cutting help

« on: December 14, 2010, 03:13:55 AM »

Hi,

Soft starts for diode lasers are really not needed anymore xecpt as power on delay of about 10 seconds to make projectors legal in some countries.
Good laser drivers has a threshold setting that sets a base current for the diode that makes it just turn off so that even a very tiny voltage on the input produces laser output, that makes the diode habby by not "restarting" it every time you want to turn it on-off.
I have drivers and diodes that can be modulated to over 100khz and work that way for years without degradation.

Most ebay diodes are ok but the drives are usually crap, toss the driver and buy a Flexmod P3 from here:
http://hacylon.case.edu/ebay/laser_diode/FlexModP3.php and you will be ok, it can be controlled by TTL (PWM) or analog modulation (0-5V controls output power, scale it to use 0-10V from VFD control voltage from MACH3 with a breakout board or Gecko G540)
The driver has a modulation frequency range from DC to 160kHz so you should be ok, it's about 5khz output freq from most laser controllers.

Lasers that have a pump diode that drives excites crystals to provide the visible alser output can suffer from poor modulation (f. ex green DPSS lasers) but even they do not break just exhibit weird modulation effects of the output power when the frequency is changed abruptly.

There is one problem area with diode lasers in so far as they prefer a ‘soft start’ if they are to enjoy their expected lifespan but this would not be practical with CNC usage as it would make everything far too slow. The attached circuit could be used to interface your PC and Mach3 to the diode laser and you could perhaps, initially, use the M3 M5 combination configured to the output pin of your choice to actually turn it on and off but as mentioned earlier you must expect a reduced diode life when using this method.
A reasonable alternative solution would be to use a shutter system for the switching and leave the diode on for the duration of the program. There are some more details of the shutter I have used and diode lasers in general here http://www.cooperman.talktalk.net/files/18.htm .

Hope this helps.

Tweakie.

19

Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / Re: The Laser Project.

« on: December 06, 2010, 11:12:08 AM »

Klick the text "Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines)" in the upper right corner, above this thread.
Then you will get a list of all the threads in this cathegory.
Then klick the "New Thread"-button in the lower right corner.

Some tips to get good answers is to write a good description like "Help with unfinshed laser cutter" or something like that and posting good pictures, we love pictures and it makes everything easier!

20

Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / Re: The Laser Project.

« on: December 06, 2010, 10:40:39 AM »

Hi,

It seams that you found a very bad seller and I hope that you get it fixed!
Please start a separate thread in the forum and I'm shure that Tweakie and the rest of us will help you get your machine working. And please take it easy with the caps, my eyes hurt!