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Messages - jimthefish

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101
General Mach Discussion / Re: Mach3 Z axis problem
« on: July 15, 2013, 11:15:18 AM »
Hi John, I suspect it might be your computer, however if your in the UK the weather might be the problem. My machine is in the workshop (shed) down the garden and has been working without a hitch most of the last 3 years however during the cold spell things didn't work all the time, due to condensation from my heater or being below zero. Now the hot weather is here my machine has started missing steps in the X & Y axis, you can here the motor stop and then jump even when not cutting. The colour change to the G code screen is the clue, your computer might be overheating and causing the graphics card to default. Try it in the morning before it gets too hot. I tried my machine at 6 this morning and all worked fine, its now 3 in the afternoon and 30 degrees, (its 36 in the workshop/shed) the machine is playing up again, the temperature must be affecting the 5 volt controls. one other thing to try is the wire going into the BOB for the z axis down, has it come loose? JUST A THOUGHT.
Hope this helps

102
General Mach Discussion / Re: Emergency stop erroneously activates
« on: June 23, 2013, 04:31:37 AM »
Hi, I had the same problem in the depths of winter down in my workshop, it was damp and cold which didn't help however here is a guide I wrote for myself if it happens again. All this started after a Mach upgrade which we all like to blame but red below and you might find an answer.

Finding solutions to 5v control faults.
A sort of diagnostic fault tree.
Don't assume MACH program is at fault (I firstly blamed the upgrade)
For example I have seen lots of users including me with limit switches or E stop being activated mysteriously, so before blaming Mach and going on Mach forum with a new topic follow this simple check list

Your machine stops for no apparent reason with the Status Box showing Limit switch activated, E stop activated or other unknown error message.

Investigate the following

Are you working in a cold shed or workshop and decided to put a heater in, I did and the condensation was massive. (not good news for 5v control systems and computer mother boards).

Firstly look at the Diagnostic page of Mach to see if any input/output signals have been activated then investigate offending switch or fault. If nothing shows up there could be lots of reasons for your program stopping

If no errors seen on the diagnostic page then you have an external influence causing the problem especially if you have 5v control circuits

First physically check for
Loose BOB cable connections?
Loose wire connections on your machine?
Damaged switches or wires to control circuits?
Damp, swarf or oil on connections and switches?
Checked you earth connections, tighten if needed
Are any 5v signal wire near any power wires or transformers if yes move them?
all OK then
Is your computer performing correctly, check the driver with the driver check file in your Mach folders for any spikes in the signal (see tutorial videos)
Check you computer connections and look for loose or bad connections
Have you changed anything or switched on nearby equipment (vacuum cleaner) that may cause electronic noise
Faulty florescent lighting nearby
Addition equipment nearby causing electronic noise
 all OK then
Its time to try a few changes in Mach (note your setting before changing)
Test the signal with Mach driver test and look for spikes in the signal
Change the de-bounce figure and check to see if the fault have been corrected
Un-tick the “use Watch Dog”  box in the general setting page then check to see if the fault had been corrected. If not reinstall original settings

Now you have a problem, mine was solved by noticing a overheating capacitor on the spindle drive card, giving out electrical noise so replaced it, with the help from Hood I repaired it, now all is fine
(FINGERS CROSSED).

Hope this helps

Jim

103
Hi Thomc, (Chris) I think RICH missed of an e from the end of not so you read the reply as not, instead of note meaning there is nothing wrong with your program. However I took the liberty of downloading your mach file, run it on my machine I had to scale it down to half scale so I could machine the shape, as expected it cut perfectly so your assumption of deflection due to the feed rate is correct. Cant remember if you said what you were cutting but sometimes the second cut is deflected because of the cut material left in the slot or the cutter deflection cuts more off one side of the previous cut. Anyway I think your problem is mechanical note electronic however sometimes too fast federate skip a few steps causing an offset when going round the same form especially when going round rounded corners. Try cutting a square without rounded corners. Chris I'm sure you will solve it keep experimenting mate but remember start with slow feed rates and work up until it goes wrong.

104
General Mach Discussion / Re: y drifting problem
« on: June 08, 2013, 02:48:48 AM »
Hi this looks like something I used to get whilst doing manual machining in my apprentice days which was caused by cutter deflection. I assume you have no movement on the  X,Y and Z moves on the digital read outs on Mach. I think this conventional cut verse climb milling application
Use a dial indicator to check the following.
There is no cutter deflection by pushing the cutter by hand when its stationary.
Put a dial indicator on the Z axis and run the machine to see if you get any physical deflection.

If these are Ok check again by taking a small cut off the edge of you block so you are only cutting on one edge of your cutter and see if you still get the steps.
then try either coming from the other direction or the other side of the block, this will tell you if the axis is moving and eliminate intermittent pulsing

The best example was when I was an apprentice and I used a 1/2 collet to hold a 12mm cutter so it deflected in the collet holder. In my defence this was in 1971 when the UK was changing from imperial to metric. So the balling out by the training instructor was unjustified, in those days a tap over the knuckles with a metal rule was allowed.

Best of luck Greg sorting out you problem
Jim


105
General Mach Discussion / Re: Blown spindle inverter/controller
« on: June 07, 2013, 07:59:05 AM »
Phone these or look at the site they are excellent and a good price. http://www.inverterdrive.com

106
General Mach Discussion / Re: Taig CNC mill Z not working properly
« on: May 31, 2013, 02:13:53 AM »
Hi LC, I see from you first thread you are using an end mill (4 cutting edges) for cutting. If you are plunging into the material  with this tool you might have a problem as the centre of this cutter usually has a non cutting area or even a hole in the middle of it so if your plunging in at 9" per minute you will be pushing the cutter further into the holder. Try a slot drill (2 cutting edges and slow the Z feed rate down. I used to tell my students to use at least half the X Y feed rate when plunging in with a z axis cut for that very reason. Plus the fact that I was standing with them when they took the first cut  with safety goggles, a hard hat and bicycle clips on (you work out the need for cycle clips). It also gives you time to hit the emergency stop if there's a serious problem with the clamping etc.
Keep trying if your like me you will quickly find CNC is great fun and a sense of achievement when all is working fine.
Jim

107
General Mach Discussion / Re: triac mach3 conversion
« on: May 25, 2013, 03:44:05 PM »
Is this any good, I always make a paper copy of my wiring and settings. Jim

108
General Mach Discussion / Re: triac mach3 conversion
« on: May 25, 2013, 11:28:35 AM »
This is where you've got me Jason, as I said I'm no electronics man mechanical is my skill. I had loads of problems getting my spindle to work, then all of a sudden it worked. again bear with me cause I'm thick when it comes to electronics. I purchase my BOB and spindle card from the same place as you DIYCNC
I read it like this
I have a direct 240  AC volt into my spindle drive board direct from the machines on/off relay which converts the output to the spindle motor to 180v DC. the spindle drive card that is slotted into my BOB has a small relay on it which is activated by the M03 & M05 commands via the normally close contacts on the Lynx unit. the 2 other wires give a variation of 0-12v for the speed into the 0-12v connections again on the lynx drive unit.. So I assume Mach sends a voltage signal via the BOB connection to the spindle card which in turn sends a voltage signal to my LYNX spindle drive to give the correct speed. By the way I ditched all my Denford electronics except for the main power transformer doughnut and the LYNX08 spindle unit so all my electronics are rewired I even had to reconnect the oiler and operators light into my system.
Sorry can't be of anymore help as I've said If i cant see it move I don't understand it.

109
General Mach Discussion / Re: triac mach3 conversion
« on: May 25, 2013, 07:11:19 AM »
OK Jason I've attached 5 pictures of my set up. Unfortunately to get at the electronics is difficult so I'm sending 2 in-focus pictures of the boards unconnected and the 2 out of focus show my wiring connections you make the link and finally there is a diagram just a wiring reference for me. ( the text on the one picture is the set up before I rewired it) I'm the worlds worst electronics man so tend to leave well alone when things are working, indeed I converted my machine 3 years ago with the help of Hood and others on the forum and haven't move a thing since except for a couple of electronic noise issues. Sorry can only send 4 attachments that the maximum for the forum, if you want the wiring diagram will send later. Hope this helps 

110
General Mach Discussion / Re: triac mach3 conversion
« on: May 25, 2013, 06:33:00 AM »
Hi I'm running a Triac with the original spindle drive board (LYNX08) thru a BOB and a spindle drive card from an interface slot in the BOB. the big problem is triac's wiring uses a mixture of low voltage and 240 voltage intermingled thru the system, so be careful.  Mines a 1988 model and uses 4 wires to drive the spindle and control the speed. I gave up trying to get it to reverse as Denford had a strange way of doing spindle reverse. I can give you my connections but before I do tell me the spindle drive you are using and the BOB type. Jim

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