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Messages - toomanyhobbies

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41
George, thanks again about the clarification on the caps.



I made some progress this past weekend..

I got the rest of the parts back from the machine shop last week. I'm really pleased with the work they did. If anyone needs quality machine work done give Bill Hall at Able Machine in Delaware a call. www.ablemachine.net (no affiliation, just a satified customer)

So, all the machine work (hired out work) is done on the x and y axis. I wish I could have taken a picture of my "little mill" sitting on the table of his VF7. It looked so small sitting on that machine.

I fabricated a stand out of 3"sq tubing, and got everything primed. Now I need to decide what color to paint it.

Next I'll start mounting the rails and getting the screws setup.

Then the dreaded electronics...


42
Thanks George, I never saw one of those. Thanks for the clarification.

43
George, i'm not good with electronics. When you say feed thru capacitor what size would I need and how would that be wired?

Thanks for your help.

44
Try using BOE SHEILD , It acts just like cosmolene and in a spray can, I get it at the marine supply. It sprays on thin and even like paint but drys kind of waxy like cosmolene for rust and corrosion protection.I dont have a can around but I think I have seen it even at home depot as well..Also there is a brand sold by mercury and evenrude if your near a marine store..
Gary

Thanks Gary, there is a marine supply store on my way to work, i'll see if they have that.

45
I would put some grease or oil at the machined surface which is covered by the rails. If some of the machined surface is not covered by the rails I would have carefully covered the "under rails area" with masking tape and painted the remainder  of the machined area.

Sounds like good advise, I'll do it that way. Thanks

46
I picked up the gantry today from the machine shop. They cut the surfaces for the linear rails and squared up the mounting feet. I dropped off the base and they think it may be done next week :)

I put a heavy coat of primer on the gantry. Not sure if I should paint the surfaced areas??? Anyone think a light coat of paint on the surfaced areas would interfere with the linear bearings?

47
Danaher servo motors i'll be using. On the left is the nema 34, 990 watt for the z axis. On the right is the larger 1100 watt motor I'll use on the x and y axis. Should have enough torque to move that heavy gantry. Planning on running them direct drive hooked to 2 turn per inch acme screws. I'll drive the gantry (y axis) with a similar belt setup as the old router with dual screws. This time I'll use GT2 timing belts because the htd belts I have on the old machine introduce a small amount of backlash. The GT2 belts seem to lock into the pulley better and eliminate the backlash - and they are quieter.

48
Here's a pic of the drives and some other items i'll have in the enclosure.

Anyone have any pointers on laying out the electronics in a enclosure to keep it neat and help prevent emf noise?

Looks so neat without the wiring :)

49
Picture of the gantry sitting on top of the base. So far the machine weights about 1200lbs. Gantry is 8"x6"x1/2" thick wall steel with 1" x 3" flats welded to the face. Base is made of 3/8" plate and 1"x2.5" flat bar.

50
Some pics of the first router I built several years ago.

Gantry style with about 38" x 38" travels and 12" z travel. I should have made the x axis 48"+ so a sheet of material would fit into it. I used THK RSR 15 W rails brand new off ebay. They work very well. However, one problem with the rails on this machine is the y rails are too low and are always covered in swarf. it would have been better to raise them up to the level of the gantry. The other shortcovering of this machine is the spindle. I never had a proper spindle on the machine for metal work. These issues are addressed in the design of the new machine. After I get the new machine up and running I plan to use the rails, motors, leadscrews etc. from the old machine and make a cnc lathe :)
 
Rob

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