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Messages - GeorgeRace

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31
General Mach Discussion / Re: auto Z setter adjusting
« on: June 20, 2010, 08:32:44 AM »
Attached is the Z Zero code that I am using.  It automatically detects if you are running Imperial or Metric.  It does a double touch, to assure exact touch point.  It is always accurate within .001 and very repeatable.

Code was originally written by BigTEX with modifications that I added a couple of months or so back.

Also make sure you are using the "locked down" version of Mach3 as well.

One last thing to check.  Under Config/General Configuration I have to make the Debounce Interval and Index both at 5000 or a bit higher to make sure there is no noise being detected which will upset the Z Zero point as well.

Hopefully one of these things will help you overcome your accuracy problem with your Z Touch routine.

George

32
Just a bit of clarification on the post about DC.

The feed through capacitor is exactly that, a feed through!

If you put an  ohm meter to both ends of the feed through capacitor you will find zero resistance.  The center post is a solid piece of metal, the capacitance if formed between the outer, grounded shell, and the center conductor.  They are wrapped internally with two layers of foil, with an insulator, dialectic, between the foil layers.   In aircraft design they are used primarily to feed 12 or 28 VDC through a firewall, leaving any spiking noise pulses being shunted to ground through the "Capacitance" of the device.  The AC impedance of the capacitance is very low to the low level AC signals that are the noises pulses that you want to remove due to their high repetition rate.  when the 60 Hertz (Cycle) AC comes along the small value of capacitance does not shunt the line voltage to ground, but any "High Frequency" noise riding along on the AC Power will be removed because it is so much higher a frequency rate.

Kind of hard to explain and understand if you are not into electronics.  Hope it makes sense to all who read it.

George

33
What I am talking about is a device used to remove electrical interference that is being conducted by a wire.

A feed thru capacitor is about 1/2 and inch in diameter, about 2 inches long, and has mounting tabs on one end.  There is a threaded screw opening on each end.  These were originally made for aircraft and military use during WWII.  They can still be purchased at places like Aircraft Spruce, Allied Electronics, DigiKey, and other electronic suppliers.

A good value for your application is a .1mfd at 600 working volts rating.  And yes, they will work with 110 or 220 VAC.

The attached picture will be worth a lot more than words.
Click on the picture to see it at just about actual size.
George
  

34
You can keep the RFI to a minimum by building the electronics in a metal enclosure.  Use shielded cables for all the drive motors, and make sure everything is well grounded together.  Using a couple of 'feed thru" capacitors where the line cord exits the box will keep the whole system very quiet.
George

35
Hi All:

Have the latest version of SimpleMill up for download on the web site.  http://www.mrrace.com/SimpleMill/

Made a lot of changes and additions to this version.  One of the most requested was an Auto Z Zero button and routine.  I modified the very well done BigTex version that does both Imperial and Metric.  It really works very well.  My hat is off to Big Tex for the nice job.

If you only need a simple 3 axis 2.5d screen, this may be one you will find very easy to use.

George


36
Works in progress / SimpleMill - A very simple 3 axis screen set
« on: May 19, 2010, 02:18:32 PM »
Hi all:

I am involved in making 2.5d aluminum Experimental Aircraft parts.  I have been using Mach3 since I first built up my mill.  I have downloaded and tried out every available screen set out there.  I really like bits and pieces of many of them, but most of them have dozens of buttons and many extra pages that I just never use with my very simple milling setup.

Borrowing bits and pieces and ideas from several of the screen sets that I have tried out, I used MachScreen to build my own SimpleMill Mach3 screen set.  I am sure it is not for everybody as many of the functions of other screen sets have been taken away.  But, if you are using a 3 axis mill, doing 2.5d cutting out of parts, you may find my screen set is all you will ever need.  Everything I need is on one page.  A second page is a "Full Screen" page of the cutting path, with minimal options.  I really like watching the big pictures as my mill goes about it's job. 

Please give it a try and let me know what you think.  Any suggestions and ideas for improvement will be considered, providing they have a place in my simple milling process.

I was greatly encouraged by several of the screen sets out there.  Their authors have done a lot of very time consuming work.  Putting their work out there for others to see and use has encouraged me to do the same.  I sincerely hope that those from who I "borrowed" bits and pieces, or copied some of what they did, will understand that the greatest flattery comes when someone uses your work and ideas in creating yet another piece of work.

You can download it from my website:  http://www.mrrace.com/SimpleMill/

George

37
Machscreen Screen Designer / Re: Flashing Button State
« on: May 12, 2010, 06:30:10 AM »
If you're using an image button with no image, you need to use a blank transparent .png for the button image.

Hi Gerry:

I am confused I guess.  First I place an LED and then choose the button name of the two color button I set it's action to the Function the LED is to mimic.  I then cover it with a transparent button image and assign the action to perform to the transparent button.

What am I missing in your response?
George

38
Machscreen Screen Designer / Flashing Button State
« on: May 11, 2010, 08:45:23 PM »
I have created a set of blue buttons with white letters.  I then created the double width button necessary to have a two color button, and made the letters red on the right hand button.

They work just great, and when selected I have them flashing between white and red.  Normally white lettering when not selected.

Every now and then I will have a button that turns off the function, it quits flashing but the text remains a steady red instead of white.

Is there some way that I need to setup the information behind the LED Button so that it always shows the white type when NOT selected?

Thanks,
George

39
Machscreen Screen Designer / Estimate DRO Question
« on: May 10, 2010, 08:50:30 PM »
I really like Machscreen Screen Designer.  It is a real pleasure to use.

I do have a question, I think I must  be doing something wrong, but can't seem to figure it out.

I am using the Estimate DRO.  When I change the format in the design view, the numbers change as expected.  The problem is that no matter what I choose for the format, the program in Mach3 always shows 00:00:00 at start up.  I would like it to be 00:00 but setting the format boxes at 2 and 2 only changes the window in design view.  As soon as I run the screen in Mach3, I get back the good old 00:00:00

Help, what am I doing wrong?

Thanks,
George

40
Hi Gerry:

Excellent, it works perfect!  Just exactly what I was looking for.

Just wanted to tell you again how much I like your Aqua Screen Set.  Your work has inspired me to build a new screen set for my use.  I based it on a lot of what you have already done, and i sure do appreciate all the work you have put into Aqua.

I have a small desk top mill and do very simply 2.5D milling of Experimental Airplane parts.  I probably use only about 5% of the power contained in Mach3.  I have come up with a single page screen set that lets me do everything that I need to do to machine parts.  Actually has two operating pages, the second one is a full screen presentation of the milling being done.

As soon as I am confident that what I built is all that I need, and it all works as I want, I will be posting it here for other to see and try out.  I think that if you have a simple milling setup, using only three axis, and only doing "flat" work, my screen will be all that is necessary to get the job done.  Anyway it has been a lot fun learning to build a screen set for Mach3.  I will be calling it Simple-Mill when it comes out.

Thanks again for all your do with Mach3, greatly appreciated.

George

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