Hello Guest it is May 10, 2024, 03:25:17 PM

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - GeorgeRace

Pages: « 1 2 3 4 5 6 »
21
I am not sure, but it would seem that there is no way to tell the mill what way to go home, in your situation.  To the right of home is OK as home is normally at rest on the left end of the machine.  If you start to the left of the home switch position there is no way for the mill to know when the axis is home, as there is no switch to trigger the axis stop.
I could be wrong, but I don't think it would be possible to have it both ways.
George

22
Hi Barry:
Glad to be of help.
I don't remember exactly where, but you can get the Incra hold downs for a bit less than directly from Incra.
Either Amazon.Com or ebay, I don't remember which.

The only problem I have had with them is that after a lot of use you may end up pulling the nut out of the knob.  I have a source for an exact replacement that costs a great big .75 each!  Was thinking about building some, but for the cost of them and the good quality of their extrusion I don't think it would pay.

They are very nice and really do work well.  There are pictures on my site of them in use.

http://www.mrrace.com/Products/  

George

23
I do a lot of aluminum cutting, making parts for experimental airplanes.
I always use a piece of MDF under my aluminum sheet.  I cut parts from 1 X 1 inches up to 12 X 15 inches from aluminum of .016, .025, .032, .060, and .125.  In all cases I never cut more than .035 in depth.  I use only 2 flute carbide bits, usually between .09375 and .125 in diameter.  
What I find most critical is the RPM of the tool and the linear cutting speed.  If the tool RPM is too high and or the cutting speed is too fast you develop a lot of heat at the site of the cut.  This causes the aluminum to "bubble" upward at the site of the cut, due to the heating and swelling of the aluminum around the cut.  I have a simple test to test if the cutting speeds are right.  I simply run my finger along the cut, just BEHIND the cutting tool.  If the metal is just warm to the touch, and there is no swelling of the metal, all is going well.  I typically use cutting speeds of around 2000 to 2400 RPM and linear cutting speeds of no higher than 10 inches per minute.
I have tried 4 flute cutters and they just are not suitable to cutting aluminum sheet.  Actually the best cuts and lowest temps when cutting come from single flute carbide cutters.  They have long life and do a very clean cool cut.  
I forgot to mention, I hold the material in place with 3 or 4 "Clamp Down" devices around the perimeter of the sheet being cut.  I use ones made by Incra, they really work very well
Hope this help some,
George

24
You can start by downloading MachScreen.  It is a very easy to use screen building program for Mach3.
Is free to use and will not take you long to learn to use it.

There is a thread here on the forum for just MachScreen that has a lot of additional information.

I built SimpleMill using it.  Download SimpleMill here:  http://www.mrrace.com/SimpleMill/  It is a simple 3 and 4 axis screen set.

Start by using MachScreen to play with SimpleMill screens, that way you will not be messing up your current Mach3 screen set.

Good luck with your project and please keep us up to date as you start putting it together.

George

25
This seems to simple, but I can't seen to find an answer.

There is a button command, "GotoZs" that sends all axis on the machine to the current DRO Zero positions.

What I want is to be able to send an individual Axis to Zero, like Only X, Only Y, Only Z, or Only A with the click of a button.

George

26
General Mach Discussion / Error Window Question and Elapsed Time DRO
« on: July 15, 2010, 08:47:27 PM »
When I generate a GCode file, the individual Machine Operations all have a title in the file.
That title appears in the "Error Window" as the file is being run by Mach3.

The first two or three operations show the title of the operation being done.  Then for some reason it skips down to the last title in the file, skipping two or three along the way.  The machining proceeds properly, but one more thing of note, when the last operation title is being shown in the "Error Window" the "Elapsed DRO" window stops counting up the running time.  My guess is that there is some programmatic connection between the two events.

So I guess there are two questions I would like to have answered.

1.  What needs to be done to correctly display the "Title" of the operation being done?
2.  What is it in the GCode file that controls the start and stop of the Elapsed Time DRO?

George

27
I got a lot of suggestions for improvements to my original SimpleMill 3 Axis screen set.

Here is the latest version. Both a 3 Axis and 4 Axis screen set are available. They use the same common graphics set.

Now has a very nice working Z Axis Zero routine that works perfect every time.

Nice easy to see big buttons for most functions. See pictures below for details.

More information and download from: http://www.mrrace.com/SimpleMill/

George

28
General Mach Discussion / Re: auto Z setter adjusting
« on: June 21, 2010, 05:30:49 PM »
Hi Tweakie:

I probably did not make it clear where I put the noise suppression.  No, not on the Step and Direction Pins!

My controller has a wire lead header, on the PCB, where you hook the leads from the EStop, Probe, and X, Y, and Z home switches.  Those are the pins that I added the capacitors to.  My EStop is on 15, my Probe is on 10, My X Switch is on 11, my Y Switch is on 12, my Z Switch is on 13.  

Those are all input pins to my controller and are all pulled high with a 10K on board resistor.  It was those wires that I saw all the noise on in the ungrounded condition.

You would think that the low impedance of the 5 VDC Power Supply would be enough to suppress any spikes on the lines, but the 10K pull up resistor raises that impedance and allows the noise to ride along on the wires between the open home switches and my controller.  I have all the wires in a bundle that runs around the machine and go as a group to the controller box.  

Incidentally, I noticed that I DID NOT use shielded wire to the three Home Switches.  That is probably why they are picking up the pulse noise from the motor drive wires.  Same thing on my wire to the Touch Probe.  But I DID use shielded wire to all the stepper motors.  I would bet that if I were to change all the Home Switch and Probe wires to shielded I probably would not have had any noise problems at all.

When operating the mill, the stepper motors are being driven by some pretty high current square waves.  It is easy to understand how much harmonic energy that must be riding up an down the motor leads.  I know that it is impossible to listen to an AM radio in the same area as the mill when it is in operation.

If I get around to it one of these days, I will redo all the wires, using shielded on everything.  I would also separate the input wires from the stepper drive cables, running each in separate bundles.

This stuff is always fun for me to explore.  Hopefully this was a help.

Incidentally, I love your picture.  A flying cat!  I am an airplane pilot and we have three black cats here in the house.

George

29
General Mach Discussion / Re: auto Z setter adjusting
« on: June 21, 2010, 01:37:15 PM »
Does debounce come into use only if he is using a micro switch to detect instead of completing a circuit by shorting an input?

It does not make any difference to the debounce setting in general config, what method is used to change the active state of an input.

Index has its own separate debouce setting, but all other inputs EXCEPT probe, are grouped together under the debounce setting.

In older versions of Mach, probe was included in that group, but was removed about two years ago.

Greg

One of the things I really like about this group is the knowledge that is just out there waiting to be shared.  Greg's comment set me off in a new direction to find out what was really happening with my touch plate hookup.

When I did my initial hookup of the touch plate, I had an intermittent problem where sometimes it worked, and for no apparent reason sometimes it would stop short of the touch plate.  I tried everything I could to figure out what was causing the problem.  I knew it was not the VB routine so it had to be more on the electromechanical side of things.  At that time I noticed the debounce setting, and setting it to 5000 seemed to solve my problem.  Notice I said SEEMED, but I remember even after doing that occasionally it would still fail, stopping short of the touch plate, but it seemed a lot less than it was.

Next I looked at the electronics.  I was using pin 10 for the probe lead.  It had a 10K pull up resistor to the +5 volt line.  To assure a clean signal to the pin, I installed a .1mfd and 10mfd miniature capacitors between pin 10 and ground.  From that time on I have not had even one time where the zero touch did not work exactly as expected.

So today armed with the fact that debounce had nothing to do with solving my problem I tried several other things to see what was REALLY happening.  First, I set the debounce to 0 in both columns.  Ran the touch probe routine about 20 times, worked perfect every time!  Tried homing the mill and WOW, it stopped before getting to the home switches.  Tried several times with the same results, always stopping in a different place, but not home every time.  Setting the debounce to 2000 solved the problem, homed perfectly every time.  My conclusion, there must be something being detected by the X, Y, and Z pins that was not a home switch closure.

Next, just to find out what would happen, I unsolder-ed one end of both the .1mfd and 10 mfd capacitors on pin 10.  Immediately my Z touch routine failed just about every other time.  Putting them back into the circuit again restored the touch plate operation, perfect every time!

Next I took a small service Oscilloscope to the shop.  Looking at the X, Y, and Z pins in my controller I was really surprised to find a constant hash riding on the pin anytime I moved any axis. The "hash" was about one half the voltage level of the DC pull up voltage on the wire.   For some reason the X axis seemed to be the worse.  Every now and then there was a larger spike that looked like it was the same amplitude as the DC pull up voltage on the wire.  It was a very narrow pules, but never the less it was there, I surmise that by setting the debounce time it was wide enough so that the pulses were not seen.   So nothing was happening until it got to the home switch which provided a nice solid ground and stopped the mill.

Next I installed a .1mfd and 10mfd capacitor in the controller box at the X, Y, and Z port pins.  Now looking at the pins with the scope, nice and clean, only a solid steady 5 volt DC line showing.  I set the debounce to 0 again and the mill homed perfectly every time.   Had my controller been provided with those noise suppressing capacitors I would not ever seen any false triggering on any of the axis at any time.

Yes, I am using shielded wire to all the devices and stepper motors.  All shields are grounded at the controller end.  I also have a nice heavy ground lead that is separately run between  the mill frame and the controller power cord ground terminal, which is grounded to the power supply ground terminal.

Hopefully this will help someone else solve some of their intermittent problems.  I guess that my controller is very susceptible to noise being generated within the electronics that drive the stepper motors.  Probably some of the more expensive commercial systems do not have this problem.  My controller is a very nice one that I built up from a kit and really has worked very well for over 2 years now.  Adding the noise suppression capacitors on the port pins seems to have really settled my mill controller down.

George





30
General Mach Discussion / Re: auto Z setter adjusting
« on: June 20, 2010, 12:59:48 PM »
Hi BOGIE:
If you are using my Z Zero routine there is some additional information you need to set your Z Axis height after the touch.

In the code look for "ZNew = Plate Offset + .937  This is in the Imperial section at the top of page.

You will need to change the number .937 to compensate for the touch plate thickness and your new Z height after the touch.

Here is how it works.
My touch plate is .063 thick.  I wanted to withdraw the Z Axis to 1 inch above the work surface.  I subtracted .063 from 1 inch, the result, .937 goes in the line of code.

So to set your final Z height after touch, subtract your touch plate height from the final height you want Z to go to and put that number in the "ZNew" line in the VB Code.

As my routine does both Imperial and Metric in the same routine, for Metric you need to go down further in the program and do the same calculations, using Metric numbers, in place of the "20" shown there now.

Hope this helps,
George

Pages: « 1 2 3 4 5 6 »