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Messages - stirling

1711
Hi guys

I use both these motors and at first sight they appear identical and are supposed to be interchangable. However there is one very annoying and subtle gotcha.

See my post http://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php/topic,12773.msg83404.html#msg83404 (reply #5) to see what I mean. The scheme on the left is M60STH88 and on the right is FL60STH86. At first glance they look the same, indeed all the colours line up with the labels A, A dash etc. BUT the start of the coils is on different wires. Parallel wire an FL60STH86 up as per the M60STH88 and it'll be phase fighting and jumping around like a box of frogs. Use the diag on the right for the FL60STH86 motors.

Cheers

Ian

1712
lol - yeah but don't you just know its going to be out of tune... sorry Brett ;D

Ian

1713
does it sound anything like this?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOTrZqfEJEI&feature=related

just picked at random - there's hundreds of them (where DO they get the time ;D)

1714
I'd urge a little caution. A stepper drive is by nature a current limiting device. A motor can NOT "draw" more current than the drive is set to source. If the driver has "blown" I would suggest it's not for the reason you give here. If it's max current is 2.5A then that is what it will have been delivering. If the motors are 4.2A then they would have been current starved in parallel. In serial you will presumably set the drive to limit current at 2.1A but that is not hugely less than the 2.5A of before (maybe enough less - but maybe not). I'm guessing that heat sinking may be an issue worth investigating.

1715
General Mach Discussion / Re: Stepper Speed on XYZ Router
« on: January 14, 2010, 05:15:19 AM »
The motor appears to be a hybrid stepper (i took it apart).

Not exactly sure what your question is but...

disassembly of a stepper motor will typically demagnetize the magnets to a point that the motor is useless until it has been properly remagnetized. With a few motors, the reduced energy will have little effect until the motor is under full load.

1716
General Mach Discussion / Re: Subroutine reps DRO?
« on: January 12, 2010, 05:13:38 AM »
maybe... but all the other dros update no problem.

1717
General Mach Discussion / Re: Subroutine reps DRO?
« on: January 11, 2010, 05:14:12 PM »
hmmmm - don't think this is the reason for this though ray. I tried this with a sub that took several seconds per iteration and the dro registered nothing. Yet with a dwell of just 1 ms all worked fine.

Cheers

Ian

1718
General Mach Discussion / Re: Subroutine reps DRO?
« on: January 11, 2010, 10:43:42 AM »
Hi

try dro 222 (as you have done). Then try it in single block mode. It'll count DOWN from L? to zero. How to run it out of single block mode? - stick a G4 P1 in the loop somewhere. Why? - I haven't the faintest idea - but it seems to work.

Cheers

Ian

1719
just did a quick google. Don't know if these http://www.isel-germany.de/products/product.php?lang=en&ID=p321 or their ilk are what you have but there seems to be a parallel port option on some. see 2/3 way down the page where mach3 compatibility is mentioned.

cheers

Ian

1720
sorry - I've never seen a Campbell breakout but if you download the UG and the xml you can maybe put it all together.

the ports n pins dialog tells you that pins 10-13 and 15 are inputs. Clearly a probe is an input device so its going to have to connect through the breakout somehow to one of these pins.

If we fire up mach with the xml profile given by BC you'll see that pin 10 is used for e-stop and pins 11,12 and 13 are used for the three axes home and limit switches. Pin 15 is used for the A axis home and limits.

So first question is: do you have an a axis - either rotary or slaved linear - if no you could use pin 15.
alternateively you could rewire all your home, limits to use a single pin leaving you 3 inputs free - but we'll leave that for now as its just a tad more complicated.

Lets assume we're going to use pin 15. First alter the ports n pins so pin 15 is used for the probe input instead of A. Then you've said your probe is a simple NC switch - so take a look at page 17 of the UG where it shows how to use a NC micro-switch as an input rather than the BOBs default of a proximity switch. This will of course connect to what the breakout calls Aux or A home cos that's what's connected to pin 15.

Cheers

Ian