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Messages - sshneider

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261
Hood,  I'm confused- if he removes pin 15 how will he trigger any limit stop?

IMHO, I think serial wiring w/ N.C. switches on the limit loop is the way to go. 

Your idea of using a magnetic switch to save is clever but, I'm not really sure what it is getting you.  You still have to mount and wire something at both ends of the table and ALSO mount a magnet to your trolley so, in my mind it seems like you have MORE to do with the magnetic system.  I could be missing out on something here as I have never used these type of switches so, forgive me if I am not seeing something.

It sounds to me like your Home switches were working OK when we started- is that correct?  If so, I would just leave that alone and be happy that you are getting your homing refs to work. 

On the Limits loop... If you can change the receiver part of your magnetic switch to be N.C. I would do that and wire in series (wire from pin 15 to input on X limit switch-> output of X limit switch to input on Y limit switch -> output of Y L.S. to input on Z L.S. output of Z L.S. back to common).  Wiring this way means that if any of those switches are triggered they will break that circuit and cause a limit stop.

After you get it wired, go to the Diags page in M3 and you can check if your switches are working by looking at the LEDS on the screen.  They should light up when you trip your switches.

Good Luck!

Regards,
Sid

262
Wow that is kind of a trippy drawing.  The reason I say that is because it only shows 3 switches being used for BOTH the limit AND the Home.  This, of course is not really possible since the the home and limit switches are normally on oposite sides of the table.

So, do you have 3 switches or 6.

To answer you question, that method of wiring the LIMIT switches is called parallel and yes that is how you would wire it up w/ N/O switches.  Is that how you have it wired?

Sid

263
I just got through with sussing out similar problems with my limit switches.  My Home switches always worked ok.  Your description of your problem is a little unclear to me so let's try to go through this step by step.

Are your limit switches wired in series or parralell?

#1  Although you can use Normally open switches for your Home switches, I think it is better to use Normally Closed switches.  The N.C. method is safer because if you have a problem with a switch you will see it immediately whereas with a N.O. switch you won't.

#2  It seems like the Pin config for your Home switches is fine.  Also No, it is not a problem to share all 3 limit switches on the same pin as you describe if you use N.C. switches

#3.  I can not imagine how you can wire your limit switches in series using N.O. switches.  Wiring something in series means that every component in the series must pass the signal along or else the circuit will be broken and, when broken, will trigger an action (in this case a limit request to Mach 3 which in turn will cause a reset condition).  If your Limit switches are wired in parralell, then I think you need to check the polarity on each switch and make sure that everything is copasetic.

HTH.

Regards,

Sid



265
Eureka!  That was it.  Changed the limit switch wires over and all of a sudden everything is right with the world!  Thanks again!

Regards,
Sid

266
That's kinda what I thought.  I guess one of the pitfalls with putting together a system yourself is having to figure out all this stuff.

Didn't have time today to mess with it but, as soon as I do, I'll let ya know how it turns out.  I'm sure that will fix me up though.

Thanks Chad!

Regards,
Sid

267
I am curious about this.

I posted a thread a while ago because I am having difficulty getting the overide limit button to let me click reset in order to move off the limit switch.  As stated in the other thread, everything looks Kosher (i.e. the limit O-ride limits LED on the settings page is flashing red and the Limit OV LED on the Diags screen is steady green.  But when I click reset, nothing happens, I stay in Emergency Mode.

This leads me to beleive that somehow I have something hooked up wrong with my Limit switches.  Currently my E-stop button is inline with my limit switches and I am thinking this is my problem.

Therefore the question- is a E-Stop request and a Limit Request the same to Mach?  In other words, can someone tell me if they have found this to be true...
if you hit your E-stop button there is no way to reset Mach out of Emergency mode UNLESS, you reset your E-stop button and then Click 'reset'.  Whereas, if Mach sees a limit switch activated, it WILL allow for a reset out of Emergency mode (assuming the manual overide limits button is selected).

Thanks for any insight!

Regards,
Sid

268
General Mach Discussion / Re: SURFACE WIZARD
« on: June 03, 2006, 09:31:47 PM »
BRIAN!  Dude!  Are you "holdin' out" on us?   :o  Now that you've let the cat outta the bag you HAVE to give up the goods!  Howbout a file download for all your "buds"?  8)

 ;)

Sid

P.S.  What else ya got there in that 'bag 'o trix'?????


269
General Mach Discussion / Re: SURFACE WIZARD
« on: June 03, 2006, 04:09:55 PM »
Hey Joe,

I've used that wizard and I like it but, I too have questions about doing some of the advanced things (like changing rate).  Due to my inexperience with the whole CNC process, I usually just try different workarounds to solve my problems.

So... long story short, My workaround for the same problem you are having is, I used the wizard to generate the basic code and have it kick that back to Mach 3.  Then I would used the Edit G-Code button to go in and add the Feed Rate changes that I wanted at the appropriate line.  It's pretty easy to do it that way.  Perhaps not the most elegant solution, but nobody has ever accused me of being a stylst  ;)

Good Luck!

Sid

270
General Mach Discussion / Re: Limit Switches go crazy
« on: June 02, 2006, 04:00:52 AM »
Ryan,

An excerpt form the .pdf installation/wiring file posted on the cnc4pc.website ...

PAGE 1 "Input and output pins with close by ground connections.
Forget about grounding problems. Easily connect your pin using your close by ground
connection..."

PAGE 3

"Testing:
Test the operation of the card and its connection to your computer and software before
connecting more hardware. To test output signals connect a LED and resistor between the
output pin been tested and ground, then activate the signal from your software. To test input
signals connect a wire between the pin been tested and ground, then read the input on your
software."

This means 0V should be applied to this input.  Maybe you have a bad board?

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