Messages

1251

General Mach Discussion / Re: Whats in the near future??

« on: March 16, 2009, 11:47:49 AM »

My impression is Quantum is dead.  I think they've incrementally upgraded Mach3 to the point that it is what Quantum was supposed to be.  Brian has done a pretty complete re-write of an awful lot of the core Mach3 code.

Regards,
Ray L.

1252

General Mach Discussion / Re: Problem with Auto Zero Script

« on: March 15, 2009, 11:22:25 PM »

This is driving me crazy. I am running ver 3.042.021. I have added this code to my "Auto Tool Zero" button in Mach, which I got from this forum.  If I step through the code it works perfectly, and the machine stops at +0.438. This is .500 above the work piece. If I run it by clicking the button it adds the touch plate thickness to the retract height, or .562.  If I run it again it then retracts to .624. I couple of times it has doubled the height. If I edit the script and single step through it it works and stops at 0.438. I have tried increasing the dwell times (I am set for milliseconds) which had the same results. What am I doing wrong?  I am running out of ideas and hair.....
RJ 

I'm afrarid that doesn't make a lot of sense....  Without that, you can't be certain the probe move will move at all, or may move the wrong direction, depending on your starting position.  In any case, it shouldn't prevent the rest of the macro from working if the probe move does work correctly.  There's something funny going on in there....

Regards,
Ray L.

1253

General Mach Discussion / Re: Problem with Auto Zero Script

« on: March 15, 2009, 03:30:30 PM »

RJ,

   Startup Mach fresh, and look near the top-right corner of the screen, where the current modes are indicated.  Make sure it indicates G90.  Now run the macro, and again check that it still says G90.  It sounds to me like G91 is getting set.  This could happen in the script, if the AbsoluteModeLED is not getting read reliably.  I know when I wrote the script, I found the IncrementalModeLED did NOT work correctly, which is why I did it the way I did.  The original script I started with did not check or set this mode at all.

Regards,
Ray L.

1254

General Mach Discussion / Re: how to set up auto tool zero fot (X,Y,AND Z)

« on: March 15, 2009, 12:26:38 PM »

This is a little different than what ya'll are discussing, so please forgive.  My machine came with a factory installed auto zero plate.  When used it works.  It tells me it is moving to a safe z height of 1" after zeroing the z.  In reality it moves to over 4".  After running my cut file, without problems, the z does not return to the proper height if I rerun the cut file.  It is about 1" high.  The dro reads 0 and if you run the cut file,it will cut 1" to high.  No problems with this if I manually set z.  What do I need to change?  I have the lastest lockdown.
Kent

Kent,

Mach3 does not include a touch-off macro, so whatever macro you're running, came from somewhere else.  Therefore, it's impossible for anyone here to know what it does, or how.  You need to extract the macro (Config->Edit Button Script), and post it here so we can see what it's doing.

Regards,
Ray L.

1255

General Mach Discussion / Re: Problem with Auto Zero Script

« on: March 14, 2009, 11:20:03 PM »

I notice you have one invalid line in there:

   Code "(Z axis is now zeroed and at   )" &RetractHeight

This will feed a line to Mach that looks like this:

   (Z axis is now zeroed and at   ) 0.4620

Mach will ignore the part in parentheses, but will be confused by the following number, and will probably not execute the rest of the macro, and won't re-set the proper coordinate mode.  If you invoke the macro while in incremental mode, that would explain your problem.

That line should read:

   Code "(Z axis is now zeroed and at  " & RetractHeight & ")"

Regards,
Ray L.

1256

General Mach Discussion / Re: how to set up auto tool zero fot (X,Y,AND Z)

« on: March 13, 2009, 11:42:59 PM »

Hey Ray,

I know you did not explain all that for me but THANKS. This is exactly what I was looking for.

I do not know how to add a LED to the screen. Could you help me? PLEASE...

I am also intrested in the edge and center finder macro that you were refering to if possible.



Thanks in a million

Steve,

Send me your e-mail address (mine is Jagboy@pacbell.net), and I can send you a modified default Mach3 screenset with the LED added, and the macro installed, along with the rest of the macros.

Regards,
Ray L.

1257

General Mach Discussion / Re: Mach 3 verision download which one?

« on: March 07, 2009, 03:53:12 PM »

Go to Config->GeneralConfig and check "Auto Screen Enlarge"

Regards,
Ray L.

1258

Screen designer tips and tutorials / Re: Very Cool LED/Button Combo

« on: March 04, 2009, 08:20:54 PM »

One other thing that it is worth mentioning in this thread of Ray's for the information
of readers who might be wanting to try this two state LED idea.

When placing two state LED and placing an Image Button over the top you must assign a transparent PNG image to the Image Button.

Otherwise the two state change or flashing will not work. 

That little quirck has had many a first time screen designer scratching his head.  Me included. 

This to my knowledge has not been documented.

Greg

Greg,

And that's the part that had me stumped for a bit.  Actually, for a blinking LED, you can leave the button with no graphic assigned.  The very first blink may not be correct, but it's gone so fast you'll never notice, and after the first it'll work fine.  But if it's not blinking, you can be left with the display incorrect unless you click the button very quickly.  That's where the transparent PNG comes in.

Regards,
Ray L.

1259

Screen designer tips and tutorials / Re: Very Cool LED/Button Combo

« on: March 04, 2009, 07:35:18 PM »

Sorry to burst your bubble Ray, but screen designers have been doing this forever. 

Even the standard Mach screen has half a dozen two state buttons.

Greg

Greg,

"Even the standard Mach screen has half a dozen two state buttons." - Where?  I don't see any....  I see lots of separate LEDs, and a few buttons with the LEDs surrounding the buttons, but none like I described.  I didn't think it was a new idea, but one that new folk may not have seen, or had explained.  I worked with Scream4 for several days before realizing I could do this.

Regards,
Ray L.

1260

General Mach Discussion / Re: Need advice on which breakout board is needed?

« on: March 04, 2009, 02:41:56 PM »

Here's the response I got from Marcus:

"You will be fine with 77VDC. The G320 is de-rated to 80VDC and its absolute break apart voltage is around 112VDC. We did this to take into account the line voltage variations as well as component tolerances. Back EMF is not a problem as it gets passed right back into your power supply’s filter capacitor. If you have any more questions, please let me know."

So it doesn't sound like it will be an issue...

Cool!