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Messages - RICH

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971
I'll check out the Wizard based on diameter and radius modes with and without a finish cut and see what the backplot
of the code tells me.

Will post the results here.

Hopefully sometime today,

RICH

972
I believe what Hal posted is correct as the angle is 1/2 of the total taper angle. Also don't recall but you may want to input out to 5 decimal places
since it dosen't take much for the taper not to be correct. Been a while and not sure if it additional decimal places will be used ( the threading wizard does use them ).

The screen could be improved some by extending the yellow line some and showing it as the alternate interior angle to what is currently shown.

Have used it to cut #1, 2, And #7 tapers and the Wizard  worked fine.

Once you get the taper right. try threading it, and if you want a true test of your lathe try it with a two start taper thread  on it. ;)

RICH

973
First let me say that what you find by machining a piece of wood and measuring is just not the way I test.
Using measurements just eliminates any thing to do with possible code or actual cutting.
Simply put, steps / unit from pc = a linear distance of travel movement.

You calibrate the axis for  only one section, say the left, and then test  / check what the error is across the joint and also the right section.
Now you know  comparative error amounts. For the joint, you position to the left of the joint by approx  180 degrees of the pinion travel, and then move another 180 deg of pinion travel, which puts you on the right side rack.

SO,
You can compare the two different racks separately for linearity of movement and after that you can check across the joint.

How would I do it with my equipment?
I place a 48" calibrated scale, which is accurate to within 0.001" at each 0.1" division and can measure to within  .0002" in between the divisions.
An optical alignment scope with measuring capability ( optical micrometer ),is used to read the scale.
The axis is moved and readings of movement are taken and the linearity is plotted. I have even checked the reverse movement as sometimes the reverse movement is
different than the forward movement. So one easily and quickly  profile the movement.

One can accomplish the  same thing with long calipers or a known reference but it is cumbersome to do for long distances.

BTW,
If one has a nice 48" Starrett scale graduated in 0.010" and calibrated you can use that along with a cross haired optical magnifier.

Also make note of what Jerry said as the pinion contact on the rack may be different along the rack and would affect travel.

RICH




974
So you now have no bad gears after changing the pinion.
Great!

So here is what I would do:

A. I would manually calculate the steps per unit including what a step per unit is in linear movement. Make note of the calculated value.
    The calculated value is theoretically correct if all was mechanically aligned properly. Any actual movement should be close to the calculated
    value. You will need to assume something as a standard when using the calibration feature so lets assume the left side is adjusted correctly.
    If the steps per unit is correct you should be able to  machine accurately.

    When using the calibration feature of Mach make sure you always remove any backlash and move in the  same direct for what follows.

1. Use the calibrate feature  for the left side. Note the steps per unit value. And set the steps per unit for the left side.
2.  "                             "              right    . Note the steps per unit value. DO NOT set the steps per unit!
3. Now calibrate across the spit of the rack, 1/2 of the pinion diameter rotation for  each side of the split. Make note of the steps per unit.

B. Compare the steps per unit in terms of distance values of 1 &2.

1. Adjust / tweak the right side rack. Make a calibration check and see if the steps per unit are closer to the left side.
   You are making a small mechanical adjustment to the right side to see if you can duplicate the left side rack.
   Ideally the steps / per unit should be the same for the left and right side, BUT, a small difference may be of no concern if
   the difference is small.

   With the right side rack adjusted correctly you can then check what affect the spit does and if it is acceptable.
   Note that that a rack may nay not linear and you can check portions of them to see the amount of increase / decrease / or variance.

Know what you have before you adjust and such that you have a basis as you adjust.
Remember that one rotation of the pinion would be a good linear reference to use.
There are easier ways to do this but unfortunately you do not have the equipment to do it.

RICH

975
General Mach Discussion / Re: Lazyturn Problems
« on: March 11, 2016, 07:31:51 AM »
Attached is a version 12 DXF backplot of the code you posted.
- RED are the pullouts / rapids
- BLUE are the machining at feedrate
- MAGENTA is a 8x14 x 23.75 long taper starting at 0,0,0

Looks like the rough is in diameter and the finish is radius mode??

I really need a Version 12 DXF of YOUR drawing of the taper.

There should be no problem doing this in Lazyturn and you could always use one of the wizards as they also work.

Note that you should see the pathing in simulation and see that thepathing is not correct. There is a manual for LazyTurn.

RICH

976
General Mach Discussion / Re: Artsoft sold??
« on: March 10, 2016, 06:55:08 AM »
Quote
heard on the radio that one of the kardashians has released an app showing how to eat Reece's pieces!
???? What does that have to do with this thread. ??????

RICH

977
General Mach Discussion / Re: Lazyturn Problems
« on: March 10, 2016, 06:52:20 AM »
Post the DXF and Gcode file and I will have a look.

NOTE: Always be consistent in how the drawing, LT mode and Mach Lathe mode is done , never mix them.

You can test the tool  location to the profile and also simulate the cutting for a pass. You would see if the tool is cutting to deep into the stock or gouging.

RICH

978
General Mach Discussion / Re: Budget CNC build questions
« on: March 05, 2016, 05:17:51 AM »
Post your xml file and someone will take a look to see if there is a problem in it.
Also post the PDF manual you mentioned.

FWIW: I personally will not support any of the Chinese junk.
          Folks buy this stuff, then come here and ask for assistance for a what turns out to be an inferior product, instructions, bad documentation.
          pirated software, no seller /  manufacturer support, etc. etc. etc. ............................
          What an insult to our community of users who feel the need to assist. The Chinese and sellers  just laugh at us! >:(
          
      
RICH

979
General Mach Discussion / Re: So long Gentlemen
« on: March 01, 2016, 07:54:24 AM »
Terry,

Your expertise will surely be missed.
You have been an asset to the community and I want to  thank you for personally helping me out.


Have you considered a nice "vacation" from  the forum instead of ending participation?
I understand where your coming from and we all need a break. 

RICH

980
Tangent Corner / Re: Dogs are smart ?
« on: February 28, 2016, 08:30:18 PM »
The puppy's are just saying hello.... :)

Always remember,
It's not what you nose looks like but were you stick it that counts! ;D

That said,
If dogs could talk they would probably wish each other well  like the Germans, "Good Fartum" ...thought they all had gas over there.  
Don't speak or understand Geman..... but I can read it! :o

Ruff Ruff.........,

RICH

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