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Messages - RICH

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7151
FAQs / Re: shielded stepper motor cable or not?
« on: September 07, 2008, 05:08:00 PM »
Dave,
If a junction box or just mounting a board inside something ok with lining it. You didn't say, but with a fan, I assume
you talking about a controller box and that one I would make out of metal or at the very least have a metal plate for one side of it. This way you have a nice metal conductor and it's not paper thin. The fan shouldn't be a problem as we have used ones for  PC's.
If the fan has brushes then your generate noise.  May or may not cause any problems. The opening for the fan should have a metal mesh screen which serves to keep something from getting into the controller but it also helps to keep an
electrical mechancal interference (EMI) from being conducted onto say a sensitive board inside. The screen is attached to make contact with the metal box and the box is grounded. The metal screen acts as a shield ( interferes with any electrical field trying to enter from outside the box) and it hopefully goes to ground. The screen openings  ????? 1/2 or 1/4 wavelength of the EMI frequency ?????  Been a while since I was up on this stuff so hope I'm not to far off base.
Those "E" electrical guys know all about this stuff.

Maybe I'll post some pictures of RF, EMI pictures just for kicks. ( No it won't look like a snow storm )
RICH

7152
FAQs / Re: shielded stepper motor cable or not?
« on: September 07, 2008, 12:36:28 PM »
Dave,
Yes, ground back at the controller box and not the motor side. Metal box would be better, but use it and you can always encase it with Al metal duct tape ( cheap alternative ) on the outside and you have a metal enclosure.

Here is some more confusion or conflict for your understanding.   ???

A shield is nothing more than a metal enclosure which provides a low reisistive path to ground. Lets use the analogy that the air around us is really a snow storm full of electromagnetic energy ( noise ( signals we can't understand ), TV, radio signals, high and low signals, anything sparking, etc. They are there but we can't see them. A shield will keep what's inside from going outside and vise versa. The shield can be totaly closed 100% or maybe have holes / an open braid say 50% which is open. Now that open braid shield can become closed if the snow is big ( so allowable openings, electricaly speaking are dependent on frequency if your trying to keep radiating ( signal getting out of shield ) or conducting ( signal getting past / into or onto the conductor inside the shield).  An accumilatiion of snow may not bother you while walking outside but if you never shook it off it may overpower your ability to walk. In order for the snow to stick it has to have a source ( something creating it/ motor, pulse frequency, transformer, kid playing with a sparkler ) and addtionaly it needs to stick to you ( conduction, unlikely induction, sometimes a combination of conduction and radiation ( rain and snow mix ). Now if your snow clothes ( shield) lets the snow go easily to ground you don't have to worry about it bothering your walking, but....  watch out if a whole bunch comes down on you at once from a tree ( overload / a motor turning on and generating a lot of noise), right on your butt you go ( computer locks up, signal interference , loss of or addititons to  the steppers). Now since your only walking back and forth and the snow falls equaly on each side of you ( common ground with equal resistance values) no big pile will form and interfere with the small pile of snow getting to the ground ( ground loop ) happens. 
 
No wonder you "E" guys tell us process guys to go back to our cubical!
  :) RICH

7153
Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / Re: LATHE CUSTOM & HOMEMADE
« on: September 07, 2008, 12:44:33 AM »
Hood,
It's a scroll chuck and no markings on it. May be off a jewlers lathe. As you noticed each piece is bolted together
and then a taper or pin dowel was driven in.
You jogged my memory back to one of our design courses where you had re-design given castings making them into weldments and bolting and calculate the differences in stresses between designs. Now the only stress i calc is how many more years required to work before i can play around all day doing only what i want to do.
 ;) RICH

7154
Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / Re: LATHE CUSTOM & HOMEMADE
« on: September 06, 2008, 02:13:09 PM »
POST #3 OF 3

7155
Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / Re: LATHE CUSTOM & HOMEMADE
« on: September 06, 2008, 02:11:59 PM »
POST #2 OF 3

7156
Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / LATHE CUSTOM & HOMEMADE
« on: September 06, 2008, 02:10:43 PM »
POST#1 of 3
Here is a homemade lathe I acquired 10 years ago. I was going to convert it to CNC but just can't destroy
the efforts of the local machinist who made it after retiring. He never got to use it much as he went off  to
machinist heaven rather quickly post retirement. Complete base size is 27" x 17".
Other than the purchased Boston gears, all was entirely made on a Logan lathe. Flat material is precision ground
stock and and came complete with a lot of homemade attachments. Although small in size it is built very well,
accurate, and can do some heavy cutting ( 1/8" cuts in 12L ) along with 4 to 80 thread cutting capability.
What is unique is that there is an auto carriage dis-engagement which is easily set and works nicely.
Most of all it is very,very quite when operating.

HEAD: 1/2" BORE, 3/4"x16 TPI nose, 1/2 hp motor, 4" max OD turning   Overall Length: 21"
TAIL: #1MT  also has an attachment for a lever operated drilling or boring
SPINDLE SPEEDS: 1300, 650, 490, 325 with additional  2:1 reduction to each using backgears.

Don't know if it was made from some plans or just the guys ideas but I haven't seen equivilant at any of the shows.
Post #2 & #3 are pictures of the head and tail along with some of the attachments like carriage stop, stady rest, milling attachment,
turret / indexible tool post.
 
Hope You Enjoy  ( wife won't let me put it in the dining room hutch ) 
RICH

7157
Ok, I just noticed it and made a post questioning it. 
 
Didn't know Mach was a division of another company, or if that just happened, assume the moderators will
get rewarded with free access to NFS's software and additional questions to address.

Is that why everybody is flying flags!

 ;D RICH

7158
General Mach Discussion / Re: homing accuracy
« on: September 05, 2008, 05:28:37 PM »
B.E.N
Hopefully you will have things sorted out by Monday and the following becomes mute.

It seems intemittent and when that is the case it's nice to try and duplicate what is happening. If you can.
So if some particular combination makes it occur keep things the same. That at least allows you to do some logical
checking / disciplined checkout. The checkout should be at a high level and try to pinpoint to major section / component of the system.

Follow the signal path at the start and at the receiving end. If the program keeps running and no steps are going out the PC that's one thing, but if the steps are going to the Geco drive and not the steppers that points to something else ( like maybe a voltage problem).

But since you swapped the drives and seemed like some success, i would ask what if any difference exists  in the
MACH tuning & settings for the Z axis as compared to the y axis and also any difference in the current limiting resistors?
Any difference in motor temperature after running?

One thing at a time and evaluate. Don't go jumping around or you won't be able to put some intelligence against
the problem. This way you scratch your head instead of pulling hair from it!

RICH









7159
General Mach Discussion / Re: homing accuracy
« on: September 04, 2008, 05:44:31 PM »
BEN
Are you using MACH Mill to run your lathe?
RICH

7160
General Mach Discussion / Re: stepper supply
« on: September 04, 2008, 06:59:12 AM »
You can disable all or individual drives to the stepper but how you do that depends on how your controller ( power supply,
dirve, etc. is wired). SAFETY is important, ie; maybe you want to take a measurement or change a tool , and you don't want the motors turning. You don't want to rely on software for this.

I use Geco 201's and have the disable pin switched for each axis, and another which will disable all axis's, also another emergency switch which will shut off power to my controller ( that one is on a cord which can be hand held). I will
call these "hard wired switches".
 
Post what kind of drives, etc you are using and surely someone will be able to relate to what you are using.
If hard wired is not what your interested in then just say so.
RICH

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