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Messages - RICH

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5771
General Mach Discussion / Re: Simple Threading Wizard Problems HELP
« on: September 11, 2009, 06:23:02 AM »
What Hood recomended in reply #13, is, the code posted will include all the pass #'s and all the x & z axis moves for a G32 ( instead of G76 code ).  
 
There is no problem with the code ( g76 or g32 ) so don't see any reason to hand code.  Should that xz move happen you will then know what pass it happened at, but, it's kind of random around the 6 th to 12 th ( somewhere in there) if memory is correct. Changing the speed and feed will change the rpm variation you are experiencing.
The problem is not the result of the generated axis moves in the code. So changing the code would be fruitless. The xz axis move you experience has to do with the thread programing as said before.

You can  try changing the settings for  the infeed angle in the wizard. I use 15 degrees for a deeper thread, like 13  to 20 TPI. This way your flank cutting and the motor load is not as great. You can probably reduce the load by 50%
( roughly speaking as i would need to calc the HP differences, and the calcs are rather subjective ).

Mach monitors  each thread cycle and adjusts the mext cycle according to rpm variations.

Try reducing the tool overhang or make it more rigid  to reduce chatter. Of course cutting fluid / speed / depth of cut also come into play when cutting internaly or externaly.

RICH
RICH

5772
General Mach Discussion / Re: Simple Threading Wizard Problems HELP
« on: September 10, 2009, 11:13:04 PM »
When i get my lathe conversion done it will be one of the things i'll check, but until then, don't know what to say.
RICH

5773
FAQs / Re: Homing my lathe, please help
« on: September 10, 2009, 10:31:35 PM »
You followed my reply #7 exactly?

 What version of Mach are you using?

Can you post XML file for the lathe your using.

RICH

5774
General Mach Discussion / Re: Simple Threading Wizard Problems HELP
« on: September 10, 2009, 10:23:15 PM »
PP is short for the computers parallel port.
 8% is not that bad, well kind of......
My punny Sherlne will drop 4 to 10% and have no problem getting a good thread. I have tested where the spindle was even stopped for a split second and the threading cycle recovered. If memory serves me correctly, you can go down some 20 to 30%  and the threading cycle will recovery from it.

The goal should be very little drop in rpm ( actually its motor torque / power that we are really talking about).

You should play with your small lathe trying different speeds and feeds and see what works for different materials and cut depths, make note of them. Ideally you want no drop in the rpm. Try increasing the spindle speed and use shallower cuts. Aslo you can try a different angle, like 15 degrees instead of 29 or 30 and flank cut the thread.

So, you should be looking to reduce the rpm slow down as much as possible.
RICH

5775
General Mach Discussion / Re: program for generating text as a dxf
« on: September 10, 2009, 08:24:37 AM »
Gerry,
Thanks for the link.
Question... When it converts the text, does it create arcs / circles or break the circular parts of the text into
small lines?  ie; the letter "B" will have two arcs in it and not a bunch of lines for the circular parts of the letter

Thanks,
 Rich

5776
General Mach Discussion / Re: Simple Threading Wizard Problems HELP
« on: September 10, 2009, 07:49:05 AM »
CARTIERUSM,
I remember that happening when we were doing thread testing a while ago. Can't recall "exactly" what the condition was that invoked that motion or what threading interation it was in ( we did a whole lot of different threading tests ). It did relate to spindle slow down when cutting and timing. Again it was infrequent and i couldn't duplicate.  

SO i am only going to guess at what i say below:
The best way to describe that x-z move is to relate it to a G60 such that the monitored move is being used as the basis to reaffirm some part of the thread cycle / programming. I remember the X ending location as being away from the outside diameter such that it never clipped the thread. Can't say anything about an internal thread.

SO whatever the condition was when it happened it, ie; spindle slow down / algorithm didn't check / G94 to G95 change / or what ever .......you will not find an answer anywhere that i know of.

Sorry, but that's my experience on it  and can't give you any "exact" advice since  the condition which creates
it is unknown to me.

RICH
 
 

5777
Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / Re: CNC CONVERSION - 6" ATLAS LATHE
« on: September 09, 2009, 04:45:44 PM »
A little redesign of what was in the last post for the bearing. Just didn't like the bearing or assembly.
RICH

5778
FAQs / Re: Homing my lathe, please help
« on: September 08, 2009, 09:58:20 PM »
Mikey,
It takes 200 steps to turn the stepper motor 1 compete revolution. ( this is for a 1.8 degree stepper which you probably have, there are .9 degree steppers and they would need 400 pulses to turn one rev )

Most drives provide for micro stepping, ( 2,4,8,10,16, 32 ? look at your drive info ), mine uses 10.

Then you have the screw lead. If the screw has 20 threads per inch, then you would need 20 revolutions
of the screw to go one inch.

Thus for a unit of 1 inch: ie;
200 steps / rev x 10 u steps x 20 rev/ inch= 40000 steps / unit for my lathe.

The resolution is equal to 1/ steps unit.
so  1/40000=.000025" ( the smallest unit of axis movement is dependant on just how good the system components are).
For example; I have an engraving machine that uses 254000 steps / unit. So the resolution is 0.000003".
I can split a thou into 10 parts  and measured the movement with a microscope, the point is, practicaly speaking, is that the theoretical resoltion is very small so you can move the axis in small increments. Big whoop! The engraving points have more than .002" of run out.


For a new retrofit i am currenty doing, i will provide  a reduction of 2:1 but the screw is 5mm ( .197" pitch, so 1/ .197=5.076 revolutions required for 1 inch of axis movement)

Thus: 200 x 10 x 2 x 5.076 = 20304 steps / unit  
Resolution is 1 /20304= .00005" hopeful i will have the ability to move in less than .001" movements, accurately......we will see)

Hope the examples help,
RICH

5779
LazyCam (Beta) / Re: Lazy Cam tool offsets. Do I need Lazy Cam Pro?
« on: September 08, 2009, 07:57:58 PM »
Dave,
Yes there are other programs out there and priced such that they should be considered. You should look at them and only you can decide.
Do you have a CNC lathe or expect to have one? What program out there is going to give you a basic lathe and mill program for $75? ANSWER: it dosen't exist!

If you actaully read manual, try the tutorials, look at the known bugs page, you will be equiped to most of what you want to do. If your in buisness, then you shouldn't even be considering LC.
Most users just don't understand that LC is an importer of a drawing and is not a drawing program.  
You need to invest some time in the selection of what software you want to use. I will say that you can't go wrong for the money.

That said, I respect your opinion astr, but disagree with it.  ;)
RICH

5780
FAQs / Re: Homing my lathe, please help
« on: September 08, 2009, 07:37:01 PM »
Mike,
Lets see if i can be of help.

1. Open Mach Turn, click the AUTO button, in Auto screen and located under the axis position DRO's there is a button "Soft Limits ON and OFF".  CLick that button so the box next to it is black and not green. This turns off
any soft limits you may have set up.

2.Click the Quit Load button in the lower right corner of the screen.
   You will be taken back to the screen that Mach Turn opens with.
 
   Now click on the Manual button ( takes you to the manual screen ).

- Just jog the carriage to some safe spot like the middle of Z & X travel  of the axis.

3A. In the Manual mode screen

    Click the Zero World X button and also click the Zero World Z button.     
    This cancels any fixture offsets that may exist ( like g54, g55 ).
    Notice that the DRO's are now zero.

3B. Click the Set Home X and also the Set Home Z. The axis should not go anywhere.
     You have just defined to Mach that this is "HOME".
 
     CLick the HOME X  and then the HOME Z buttons and also the HOME ALL button.
     Nothing happens because you are home!

4. Now jog both axis away from home some distance , say  1" approx.
   Note that how far you moved is shown in the DRO's.

5. Now click the HOME All button.The X axis moves to home and then the Z axis will move to home.
     Notice that the DRO's are back to 0,0.

So, you can set home anywhere you want it to be. Mach keeps track of the movements / offsets from home
and if you were to type  G28 ( return home command ) in the MDI box the axis will always go back to home.

ANALOGY:
Captain Kirk tells Scotty that he's tired of having his crew get lost when they beam down to the planet Earth from the Enterprise.
Scotty say's that will not be a problem any more becuase he has programmed everyones trackiing device such that no matter where they are , all they have to do is hit the G28 key or the home all key and they will be beamed right
back up to the spaceship.

So try # 1 to #5 above and let me know how it went. Then we will continue on with the story.!  ;)
RICH

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