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Messages - RICH

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5721
General Mach Discussion / Re: strange results with laptops.
« on: September 20, 2009, 12:38:02 PM »
For lack of a better word, the "dead dog" 400mhz/512 memory laptop is lacking if you want to use video or want quick screen update or whatever. 

5722
SmoothStepper USB / Re: Gaining Steps with SmoothStepper
« on: September 20, 2009, 12:31:01 PM »
At 8000 your resolution is 1/8000 = 0.000125 which is the smallest step you can make. Mechanicaly you may be plus or minus whatever. So even if electronicaly all was perfect, a mechanical measurement may show differently.
RICH

5723
SmoothStepper USB / Re: Gaining Steps with SmoothStepper
« on: September 20, 2009, 12:18:27 PM »
I guess you can change the DRO to display additional digits. Looking for such a small unit, like a step or small
movement requires some realy good equipment that most folks just won't have.
We are somewhat spoiled as time goes on and want all to come out perfect on what we see and sometimes it's
just not so.

Jeff, will a single skipped step have the same same affect as if you were to skip 10 steps such that the stepper
motion is lost?
RICH

5724
General Mach Discussion / Re: strange results with laptops.
« on: September 20, 2009, 11:59:07 AM »
There is a thread in here were a number of folks have talked about laptops.
I have an old dead dog NEC that works fine, yet the Dell Laptop can't be used without a SS ( the pulses are really bad out of it and there is nothing that can be done about it).You just never know!
RICH

5725
SmoothStepper USB / Re: Gaining Steps with SmoothStepper
« on: September 20, 2009, 11:47:18 AM »
I get simular DRO numbers once in a while, and just ignore the silly 0.0001" because it's meaningless from a practical point of view. If i do a reset, then i don't get say 3.999 instead 4.000 post jogging numerous times.
How do you really know that your loosing or gaining a single step?
IE: for a step per unit of 20304 on my lathe, 1 step=0.000049251"
To truly measure that you would need to be at some 400x with a calibrated microscope and no i would not trust the  simple reverse movement of an indicator as i can prove that it's not indicating 0.0001" on reverse.
Not all steppers are created equal. Some are made better than others relative to how their poles line up and lock in at a postion ( which can be a silly 0.0001" of movement).
Just some thoughts on the matter,
RICH

5726
Make sure the card is Windows XP compliant. Buy locally with the understanding that if it dosen't work you will get a full
 refund.
RICH

5727
General Mach Discussion / Re: How do I ??
« on: September 19, 2009, 07:08:53 AM »
I would think your computer is ok. Here are a few thoughts.
I will assume that your going to dedicate this PC to CNC. Start by only having Windows and Mach.
No other junk , like virus proctection or other software. It could then be PC hardware or something in windows.
Do the driver test and if need be open the windows Task Manager and see what processes are running.
Now now find out what each one is and one by one turn it off or nodify it and see if that process was the culprit.
DONOT...DO NOT  TURN OFF THE ONE FOR THE MONITOR, SINCE IF YOU BOOT BACK UP YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO SEE THE
MONITOR! This is a rather easy, PITA, if you don't know what your doing!

Maybe someone will have a specific that will just take care of what's needed.

Each PC can have a quirk sometimes, we have tried probably 10 different ones from dead dogs to high end machines and got them all to work. The Dells with on-board graphics suck!

LOL,
 
RICH
 

5728
General Mach Discussion / Re: Simple Threading Wizard Problems HELP
« on: September 18, 2009, 08:49:48 AM »
Threading is a rather complex and interesting machining operation. There are a lot of factors that
come into play when it is done. Material, spindle speed, cutter geometry, cutting fluid, depth of cut

and also type of threading method to be used all come into play and are interelated to each other.

You can get very techie about it and do calculations to see the affects of different combinations. In

fact over the years, it has been studied in depth and testing conducted to try and put threading

material / metal cutting into some good engineering perspective. The SME ( Society of

Manufacturing Engineers ) has done research and many of the insert manufacturers base their

calculations for diffferent tools to maching parameters on the research. All that stuff is fine, but, it is

still subjective in nature, in the sense that, so many considerations come into play when

calculated. That is not to say that one would not benefit greatly by reviewing the information.

As Hood noted the first cut is usualy deeper and you can save time and minimize the number of

remaining passes. Kind of depends on how you want to work and what works for you. You may

want to take a smaller cut just to see that all is working and you are setting a groove for the tool to

follow. Yet , you may want to take a cut that would give you the same material removal rate as the

of all the remaining cuts as that would give you an indication of what how your machine will behave

when cutting the thread. If too deep and just a radial cut you may take the tip off the cutter.
If the material work hardens then you change what you are doing again. Some soft materials are

just as bad or even worst than harder ones.

That a look at the generated code of the wizard and note how the Z and X values change from one

pass to the next. Then change the infeed angle and compare the Z and X moves to the other infeed

angle setting. 30 or 29 infeed angle is good for very fne threads, yet 15 would be a better value for

harder and deeper threads.

Note that as you increse the RPM the stepper acel rate will increase and a good rule of thumb
is to allow 3 to 5 times the depth of cut for the acceleration to take place ( that requires setting the

tool in the Z+ away from the material ). Idealy you would want max power from motor. If you have
 a punny lathe with a small motor then speed may become important since you want the the rpm

so it won't slow down, but, it's motor and gearing related. You may want to take a look at my post

on converting a lathe in the members docs as i included some graphs and how rpm, stepper torque,
, motor horsepower and feed rate are related.  

Just some practical comments on threading for your consideration,
RICH

5729
Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / Re: My first CNC project
« on: September 17, 2009, 11:01:55 PM »
Todd,
Good use of surplus lab equipment. You can get some real nice parts from them.
Expect to see some more. Cheap, well that's my idea of good pricing.
RICH

5730
Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / Re: CNC CONVERSION - 6" ATLAS LATHE
« on: September 17, 2009, 09:10:34 PM »
Z AXIS BALL SCREW  PROTECTION

I looked at a number of different bellows that you can buy which encase the screw. The metal ones as shown on a piece of screw in the picture are expensive and act as a spring. Didn't care for rubber bellows ones as they just won't hold up. Telescoping tubing requires installation on the screw before the screw is mounted. I realy wanted something that can be removed and mounted very easly. Screw wipers will mounted in back of the carriage and on both ends of it and there ball nut adjusting screws i need to get to. A shower curtain rod cover can rap around the screw and i quess you can make your owne slinky type.

I decided to give the homebrew telescoping angle covers shown in the picture a go. Easy to install and remove. Don't know how they will act during a high Z rapid move. I guess we will find out.

The MPG may get mounted to the carriage or off to the side at the tailstock end of the lathe. The one shown is just for comcept. The future new one will have a smaller box, and yes, actual wheels. The most natural mounting is on the cariage but mounted near the tail wouldn't be too bad either. Usualy i use the MPG while also looking in the microscope. You want to feel comfortable and instinctively operate them just as if it were a manual lathe.

They call this thinking "conceptual design" especialy when using high tech things like  tape and clamps.

Any simple ideas out there on the covers, give a reply!
RICH

 

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