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Messages - RICH

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5521
 
First off.....you need to have the appropriate backlash set for each axis. Your feedrates are not that high.
What works for one axis may not be appropriate for another. So three axis need to be played with to get the combo right for you.

Shuttle Accel - It's  how fast the backlash will be implemented during non-motion. Try this so you can see what i just wrote. Set the shuttle accel to 5, jog at 10 ipm or so and then jog the other way. Backlash will comp will come in on a change of directiion, and if  you watch a handwheel on the motor  or the pulley, you will see it takes forever. Now change it to say .5 and see the difference. Try .005.

Let me remark here, should you have a lot of backlash and a fast shuttle acceleration ( i use .005 ), and use a small end mill, don't be suprised if you break them. The cutter can't take the forces. I use 1/64" ball ends and it will break in a heart beat and they are not cheap!

It sounds to me like you are missing steps. When you miss a step, the axis has a mind all of it's owne, and it's off to where ever.

There are folks in here that run routers and work with wood and provide some first hand experience.
RICH
RICH

5522
General Mach Discussion / Re: Problems threading on the lathe
« on: October 24, 2009, 03:54:36 PM »
Thanks,
Take your time.
RICH

5523
General Mach Discussion / Re: Problems threading on the lathe
« on: October 24, 2009, 02:08:21 PM »
Daniel,
Can you try out the the threading without compensation and not use the SS?
What is good is that your speed is rock solid. Your an apple and i am an orange ie; my speed will vary a small amount ( like 1000 other users out there ). 
RICH

5524
General Mach Discussion / Re: Problems threading on the lathe
« on: October 24, 2009, 01:58:29 PM »
ART,
Well, first let me say that I am glad someone else is trying the the threading out.

The M1.5P ( 1.5x.0394=.0591" ) is close to the 20TPI i was running. Additionaly you get some

other uneven numbers in there like .xx91 for a pitch value. And we know that a small difference in

the defined pitch will change lead.  

A nice new tap is a good compare against the thread as they are ground very accurately.  I will

assume it was a ground tap. Most of mine are for H2, which simply means the diameter on it is held to

provide a tolerance of 0.001" over the basic pitch diameter.

Almost all of my threading has been done with averaging on
If averaging is on then all the rpm reported would be averaged and that is the value that would be

used for the NEXT thread pass. Correct?
If averaging was off then assume that the last reported...Or.... is it the requested used?
Unconfuse me.

I have not remarked much on what you see at the end of the thread. ie; single, double / multiple

lines.
I have used the distance in spacing to reaffirm what i thought i observed during the threading. (ie; a

later pass increases the thread) You would think that the difference between the ending of those

scribes could be used for lead error, or maybe tiiming pulse, rpm....but.... i figured if you have

some runout on the diameter of the piece or a difference of velocity as it pulls out of the thread,  

backlash as it changes direction on pullout.....just too many variables to try and make sense of

what that measurement is telling you. SO i just use it as a visual.

I need to remark that no variable speed drive or whatever is used here just a plain good old

fashioned motor.

AVERAGING
If you get a change of speed,  a practical example would be while threading and you hit a hard

spot in the metal, or, say you catch material just as the cutter hits the material at the beginning of

the thread, if that value was very influential on the next to last pass,  then a good thread
can be ruined if averaging was off . If on, the affect would not be as great. Actualy calculated
forces can easily double.

Now if your in the middle of all the passes, there is recovery, by the additional passes yet to be

done. But then, if it was spring in the material or poor setup, then who knows!

The point is, the  mechanical apsects of threading can vary the situation.
Like you, i am not sure what to make of it.

I won't even get into the acceleration and deceleration part of the cycle. I will say that whatever

someone does to test, keep the pullout at the same angle and use a common value like 2 or 3

times the pitch for free cutting before the actual thread is engaged by the cutter.


RICH

5525
LazyCam (Beta) / Re: removing chains and entities
« on: October 24, 2009, 10:18:35 AM »
HMM.....
Why not be a bit more logical in what you want to do before you import the DXF. All in the manual.
Saves time and you know what is what.
RICH

5526
General Mach Discussion / Re: Protect paint from moisture
« on: October 24, 2009, 07:56:49 AM »
Not all paint is the same. Some are impervious. Most of the two part epxoy paints are realy tough. Water and  moisture are tough and you can just look to the automotive industry and you will see manny choices but application, substrate and topcoating all go hand in hand in preventing rust or corrosion. Proper application is a must and cost is high. But you have already covered the metal and frankly your stuck, somewhat ,with what you did.

I would recomend you an epoxy grey enamel appliance paint which is not all that expensive and a quart goes a long way. It has held up extremely well  for me.  Outside Emron ( $8-10 a spray can) is very good and if prep'd properly and adaquate coating is applied can last a long time. Por-15 is fantastic directly over rust, but at $35 a quart you should get something for your money ( no comparison to say "Rust Oleom") but is not good from a UV point /
sunlight.

Quess what i am saying is you may have started bad, but you can refinish rather quickly since most of the labor was in prep work. I would recomend you do it now and not put crap on something that may have been inferior to begin with.
That's my nickle,
RICH

5527
LazyCam (Beta) / Re: Post Code
« on: October 24, 2009, 07:06:16 AM »
SKIPPER,
I never realy took the time to find out what exactly what you can and cannot do with LC if you do not have a pro license. In the manual it states / assumes that you have a license. You can output code but it is limited.
RICH

5528
LazyCam (Beta) / Re: Lazycam Overlapping dxf,s
« on: October 23, 2009, 11:50:44 PM »
Just like Gerry said,don't use blocks and also will note that all the curved parts of the text are line segments and that is dosen't lend itself to nice cutting. Best you could do is just replace those line segments with a simple arc. Text is just a PITA for a lot of reasons.
Don't know what CAD program you are using. On my end I just use Autocad or Microstation and nothing else.
RICH

5529
LazyCam (Beta) / Re: Post Code
« on: October 23, 2009, 11:39:04 PM »
LC comes with Mach, but, to get the Pocket, Offsets, and the Lathe you need to have the pro license for it to post code. Mach needs to be open when you post the code.
RICH

5530
LazyCam (Beta) / Re: problem with lazycam
« on: October 23, 2009, 11:24:54 PM »
Just post a picture of the motor when your done. Looks good so far.
Any problems with LazyCam just ask.

BTW, Thanks guys for taking care of the LC stuff, since as you know, i have been turning circles lately!  ;)
RICH

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