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Show"N"Tell ( What you have made with your CNC machine.) / Re: MODEL 629 S&W MAGNUM
« on: December 13, 2009, 01:54:24 AM »
The trigger will need to accurately held in place when machined. The first thing required is making a jig and drilling some small holes. I made a sensitive drill press, but, it would be so much better to avoid multiple setups. Picture 5 shows my home built engraving / milling machine which is extremely accurate. since a lot the tolerances will be to a thou. It helps to have an extended eye relief microscope for this kind of work. The one shown is 30x and 9" eye relief. You need that for drilling small accurate holes.
To drill the holes i will be using an MPG to bring the Z axis down for drilling. The MPG is adjusted for very fine touch / feel as you rotate it instead of calibrated positioning. So the first thing was to experiment and see how it all would work. Picture 6 shows drilling 0.020" holes into C/S. I could see the drill walking....it dosen't take much. Note that the difference in the sharpening of the drills between 6A & 6C. Never buy junk small drills in these sizes as your
wasting your money. Actually a home sharpened jewelers bit is much better. The trick in drilling small holes is to spot mark the surface and then just let the drill do it's job of penetrating the surface a few thou. Under the scope you can see any bending or run out of the drill bit. Pic 6B shows the bit just .005" deep and breaking the surface.
BTW, it helps to have a nice smooth surface. The drilling was done at 30,000 RPM and to a 3/8" depth. Picture 6D shows the fit of the 0.0205" diameter pin, it's perpendicular to the surface and a hair is shown for comaprison.The center to center distance of the holes measured to with in a thou of required spacing.
A jig will be made which duplicates the frame mounted such that the trigger can be mounted and the shear surfaces hand done. ( that's how i used to do Ruger Blackhawk trigger jobs).
The pictures are what i see when using the the microscope.
Stay tuned for the fun,
RICH
To drill the holes i will be using an MPG to bring the Z axis down for drilling. The MPG is adjusted for very fine touch / feel as you rotate it instead of calibrated positioning. So the first thing was to experiment and see how it all would work. Picture 6 shows drilling 0.020" holes into C/S. I could see the drill walking....it dosen't take much. Note that the difference in the sharpening of the drills between 6A & 6C. Never buy junk small drills in these sizes as your
wasting your money. Actually a home sharpened jewelers bit is much better. The trick in drilling small holes is to spot mark the surface and then just let the drill do it's job of penetrating the surface a few thou. Under the scope you can see any bending or run out of the drill bit. Pic 6B shows the bit just .005" deep and breaking the surface.
BTW, it helps to have a nice smooth surface. The drilling was done at 30,000 RPM and to a 3/8" depth. Picture 6D shows the fit of the 0.0205" diameter pin, it's perpendicular to the surface and a hair is shown for comaprison.The center to center distance of the holes measured to with in a thou of required spacing.
A jig will be made which duplicates the frame mounted such that the trigger can be mounted and the shear surfaces hand done. ( that's how i used to do Ruger Blackhawk trigger jobs).
The pictures are what i see when using the the microscope.
Stay tuned for the fun,
RICH