Messages

221

General Mach Discussion / Re: Mach3 stops approx every 10 min. / 10,000 lines of code

« on: May 29, 2018, 05:17:52 PM »

Only the Chinese know how their thermal overload  works. suggest the user jumper it out and test.
Have a look at the schematic.

RICH

222

General Mach Discussion / Re: Mach3 stops approx every 10 min. / 10,000 lines of code

« on: May 28, 2018, 01:26:48 PM »

Guessing since it's repeatable............. thermal shutdown of the LT6090 chip...... change the jumper on the chip?

 Option maybe ...get rid of the Chinese junk?

FWIW,
RICH

223

General Mach Discussion / Re: Optimizing Isolation Routing and Motor Tuning questions

« on: May 26, 2018, 08:32:58 AM »

airnocker,
I have attached a motor curve for you your steppers.
1. Find the torque to just move the axis. The best way is to actualy measure the torque using a
     torque gauge. I personaly use an oz-in gauge. The intent is to adjust individual components of
     the axis and use the gauge so you know what the affect is of any adjustment. This includes
     adjusting for any non movement of the axis and also preload of bearings.When done you you
     now have a value for the total torque. Note that belt tension has an affect on not only torque but
     also accuracy of  movement.
   
NOTE: There are programs that will calculate required motor torque values based on a machines
             configuration.
   
2.Now look at the motor curve. For any given torque there is an associated pps. Just note the basis
   for the motor torque curve as it is 30V , 4.5 A / phase @ 1/2 step setting.
  I suggest you have a good read of the information available on the Gecko site about steppers.
  1Nm= 141 in-oz, so approx you have 300 in-oz at 1/2 step setting. For your 15 IPM see where
  you are on the motor curve. I would suggest a motor max pps of  1000 to 2000 as you want power.

Graig makes good points on theoretical as compared to actual resolution. You will read on the Gecko
site that micro stepping above 10 will gain you nothing in terms of resolution.  If you want true resolution
it comes from the mechanics of the system. Just another example of resolution.......not bragging......
my engraving machine only runs at a max feed rate of  3-5 ipm, steps per unit are approx 350,0000
so 1/350000= 0.000003" but true axis accuracy is 0.000040 ( not easy to measure a micro inch movement )!

FWIW,
Have fun.......

RICH

224

Share Your GCode / Re: need help in Gcode stair spindle for mach3 turn please

« on: May 08, 2018, 07:24:43 AM »

BTW, I think it may have been  on "This Old House", not sure, where one of the guys insisted on making  spindles for a deck. The other show host tried to convince him it was to much labor and he was crazy, but since he wanted to show case the router turning center received from some company, he went on to do them.

Well after doing the doing the spindles he admitted  it was a gratifying but a really dumb idea to do them instead of buying them!
Would guess that the show was over budget on that one!

BUT the above said,

My custom lathe screen can be used to gather locations along a spindle, generate a finished a DFX file for use in LazyTurn, which generates the Gcode very quickly. Don't use it often, but one time I tested how long the complete duplication cycle would take for a "toilet handle" and it took around 20 minutes total time.

FWIW,

RICH

  
 

225

Share Your GCode / Re: need help in Gcode stair spindle for mach3 turn please

« on: May 08, 2018, 06:59:22 AM »

Anybody like to make any guesses as to why ?

Because most of the wood lathe users are making pens!

RICH

226

Share Your GCode / Re: need help in Gcode stair spindle for mach3 turn please

« on: May 08, 2018, 06:56:26 AM »

hamiri,

Why not just draw whatever kind of spindle you want and generate the G code from say LazyTurn which is free?
This way you  get the size and design you desire with G code that is suitable for your machine.

RICH

227

FAQs / Re: G54 offsets seem to be wrong polarity

« on: May 08, 2018, 06:44:09 AM »

In general:
Mach defaults to G54 on opening. When the machine is homed / referenced you have defined in MC ( Machine Coordinates ) 0,0,0
to the controller a reference point to work from. G54 to G59 is a WORK / FIXTURE offset FROM home to the part. So if you move from home to some point on the part, the distance moved from home could be one of the work offsets of your choosing. G90 is absolute distance move to a point which is relative to MC 0,0,0. Work offsets can be positive or negative in value. What the DRO shows for a  current location depends on whether you are displaying in MC's or Part  Coordinates.

If you understand the above then you will be able to address your question.

RICH

228

General Mach Discussion / Re: Wrapped text around cylinder is backwards.

« on: May 08, 2018, 05:48:46 AM »

In Fusion pic Z+ is up, X+ is away, Y+ is to the left.

In Mach3, typ setup would be Z+ is up, X+ would be to the right, Y+is away.
Or normaly all the axes move in a positive direction from the origin.

Now in Mach's graphics screen, rotate the view such that the Z+is up, Y is away,
X+ is to the right. Compare to what you have in Fusion pic.

Suggest you get the WCS system of Fusion and how it is portrayed understood,
model the part correctly such that both Fusion WCS and your Mach setup agree.

RICH

229

General Mach Discussion / Re: Mach3 Rotary Axis: how to return to zero position from -500k degree position...

« on: April 27, 2018, 06:38:39 AM »

Add the following  M1010.M1S file to the the     C:/Mach3/macros/ Mach3Mill    
folder ( the folder represents the profile you are using).
When you input M1010 in the MDI line it will zero the X,Y,Z A axes and also set the work
offsets to zero. Place a comment mark in front of any line in the M   code which you do want
to use ie;    ' SetMachZero ( 0 )  or    ' Code "G92.1"   .
Change the G10 command  to     G10 l2 P1 A0   if you only want to reset the A  axis work offset.

RICH

230

General Mach Discussion / Re: Newbie In Need Of Help On Where To Start

« on: April 25, 2018, 07:01:16 AM »

Personaly don't use a plasma machine but  the following hobby level  info should get you started.

Note you need to have knowledge or experience  on how to set up a plasma machine to work
correctly and that in itself is half the battle to do good cutting with it.You don't need to invest a fortune
and there certainly is a difference between hobby and industrial use.

Mach 3 can be used and a simple CAD program along with a simple CAM  program will do.
A macro to touch and fire the torch is required. The macro provides probing, removes floating head travel
( if that is what is used) and sets the Z height, and acivates a output from Mach3 to fire the torch.
An axial fan which attaches to a make shift hood above the table with pull down shades can
provide for exhausting of fumes.  

You can use LazyCam to generate good gcode but to use the Plasma module you will need
a pro license. In use you import dxf and use the mill module as normal but prior to posting use
the plasma module as that has inputs for torch specifics.

If your shop uses CNC then the learning is machine specific, BUT, if you don't have any CNC
experience then get ready for a long learning curve. CNC is not plug and play.

RICH