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Messages - RICH

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1091
General Mach Discussion / Re: G76 Lathe Theading Problem
« on: December 20, 2015, 11:02:29 AM »
What is it doing again?

Post you xml file again and the gcode file you tried.
Are you using the simple threading wizard to generate the code?

I am guessing you are new to using Mach3 Lathe.
I strongly suggest you have a read of the Manual. Also have a read of Threading on the Lathe write up which can be found in Members Doc's.

RICH

1092
Video P*r*o*b*i*n*g / Re: Mouse freezing on windows XP
« on: December 20, 2015, 01:03:54 AM »
Mick1969,
Don't play with your mouse even if USB connected. Same reason as reply #1.

sebashtionh,

Some folks have no problems with a wireless mouse. I have had problems with a wireless at times depending on what I was doing.
Never a problem with direct connected. Reply #2 is just one example of what can happen, ie; something can interfere with the mouse receiver.
I don't play with my mouse as others do when running a program! Leave it alone. Same can happen with a wireless keyboard.

Remember that you are running a machine and want as solid as possible a connection to control it.

Just my opinion,

RICH

1093
Keep it simple and you will not go wrong. I don't know what your doing from start to finish....Here is what I do:

1. The part / tool setter is probed using the master tool to find the lathe center X and Z = 0 while in machine coordinates.
    Zero World X and Z buttons will set machine coordinates to zero.
2. Next I move away  to a desired home position, which also the tool change position and reference the machine.
3. Now I move back to  the part face / lathe center ( X & Z =0). So the part is just the same distance as the move away from it  for 2. above but negative values. With the controlled point at part face / lathe center I change to part coordinates and Zero the part. That creates a work offset
from home to the part.

All code generated is "always"  based on the part or stock  face / center.

Simplistically Mach needs to know where machine zero is and be referenced, and  then, it needs to know where the part is relative to home.

I have a write up for the generic screen on how to  use it to create a work offset based on manually touching off.

I think you may have a G54 in affect which is causing your problem. Every body works differently and there are a number of ways to do
things.  

Note, I don't use the generic screen ......it leaves something to be desired.

FWIW,

RICH
 


1094
Fred,

I don't recall a thread on using a third axis for the lathe and have not done one for an individual live tail stock as it's different than using live tooling
mounted on the carriage.

Someone else may post on the matter but until then here are few of my thoughts:  

You can use the mill screen so you have 3 axes or use Phil's screen ( it provides an A axis, thus everything A would need to be changed to Y ).
I would recommend a custom lathe screen be done.

So any gcode done for the tail stock would be for the Y axis. ie; if you generated drilling code for Z you would need to change to Y.

FWIW,

RICH

1095
LazyCam (Beta) / Re: lazycam tool path direction
« on: December 09, 2015, 07:46:04 PM »
Have a read of the LazyCam manual it's in there somewhere. ???

See,
Tutorial #7 , have a look at page 107........, also page 110.....,
RICH

1096
Works in progress / Re: Krang screen
« on: December 08, 2015, 08:55:36 PM »
Keep up the good work.
Next you need to do a lathe screen.

RICH

1097
General Mach Discussion / Re: DriverTest evaluaton?
« on: December 08, 2015, 08:41:21 PM »
Hmm..........
What you need is my lathe screen set. I don't use switches and frankly don't see any need for them on my lathe.
I use a quick change for the all the tools ( maybe I'll have a turret some day, good grief another project ) and use probing to find the lathe X & Z zero, manually set a home position to where it is usable for the current job, and probe to set the G54 offset in Z. I can probably do that as fast as having switches to set up a job!

Guess it just a matter of how one works.

One of these days the screen manual will be done and then I'll post it, but, until I take time away from some other interests the screen set will just need to remain in the background.  

                    Toot Toot, Bang Bang, Chop Chop, etc, ::)
which means: Music      , Guns       , Knife Making, ( and other stuff which can't be said)  :)

Got to go and prepare for Santa's arrival as the bigger chimney is not finished,  ;D
RICH

1098
General Mach Discussion / Re: Recommended Encoders
« on: December 06, 2015, 11:40:04 PM »
I do not think Mach is your problem.

Post your xml file.
What kind of machine are you using? Post info on it like the drives, stepper info, power supply, etc.

It's a real pain to try to help someone when they keep posting different implied questions and trying to solve the problem.

Did you tune the motors as suggested in other replies? ie; trying different velocity, accel values, find where they skip and set appropriately.

RICH


1099
General Mach Discussion / Re: Motor Tuning and Setup A-Axis
« on: December 03, 2015, 06:16:54 AM »
Use the step calculator in Members Doc's to find the steps per unit which is in degrees. Here is the link:

http://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php/topic,16315.0.htm

Velocity, acceleration is by trial and error. start low and work your way up until it skips and then reduce by approx. 30%.
See the drive manual for recommended step and direction pulse settings.

You can use the axis calibration feature , Settings ALt 6 tab lower left corner of the screen, to check the steps per unit.

RICH



1100
General Mach Discussion / Re: Recommended Encoders
« on: December 01, 2015, 05:03:41 AM »
Rich V
I agree with Tweakie's reply.
Sometimes we should consider what others have recommended rather than looking for a different solution.

RICH

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